Replacing Garbage Disposal

[moogleberry]

Hello, I'm trying to replace a garbage disposal that just burned out.

The old one was a ISE Badger 1 (1/3 hp). Hardwired with a wall switch above the counter and has its own circuit.

I'm thinking of replacing with the American Standard slimline (1.25 hp) from costco, even though it is plug in.

My thought is to flip off the breaker and switch, then unplug the cable (romex, I think?) from the existing disposal and turn it into an outlet using this gang box and this GFCI outlet. Circuit and outlet are both 15 amp. I plan to screw the box to the left (tan color) wall in the pictures (cabinets left, dishwasher right), around the back middle so I don't need to get a saw and cut drywall. Then go on with replacing the disposal. I've read that I will need plumbers putty for this part.

I do have some questions though.

1. Someone once told me that I should replace a disposal only with a same-hp disposal. Is that true?
2. Is that an ok place for the box (and appropriate box/outlet)? It's not under any pipes but the whole cabinet section is directly under the sink.
3. Is there anything else I should consider or is wrong with this plan?

I've done basic things like replacing switches and outlets before, but in the wall, not sink-adjacent, nor converting a hard line to an outlet.
Thank you for any insights you can offer.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d put the exact same badger unit back in place and wire it exactly like it is now.

Simple yet very effective.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The stop valves and water supplies are what need replacing

 

[moogleberry]

The stop valves and water supplies are what need replacing

Hi, thanks for the reply. Sorry I don't really know the terms, are these blue circles (picture added) the valves you mean? And if so, can you explain what tells you they should be replaced? They go to the sink above and the dishwasher to the right. And the pvc pipes they're fed from too?

 

[Twowaxhack]

They are push pull type stop valves that have the hose built on. These hoses do not last forever.


You have cpvc pipe. Cpvc gets brittle as it ages. This push pull stops get harder to push and pull over time.

You can break the cpvc if you’re not careful turning the water off with those stops. They’re the worst of the worst and they should be illegal in my professional opinion. They’re not a good product for the homeowner.

 

[MicEd69]

If you want to install a different brand of disposal, and/or increase the power of the disposal, there are no problems in doing so as long as the amperage of the new unit isn't more than the capacity of the existing circuit. That American Standard unit is around 8 amps, so as long as you don't have a big toaster or some other large appliance on that same circuit, you should be fine. Some units are larger than others and could require plumbing changes to get them to fit.

On the plug, I have simply removed the plug wiring from some disposals and hardwired the disposal with the existing Romex. I've also seen, although I wouldn't suggest it, where a person cut off the plug, installed an electrical box, and then used wire nuts to connect the old Romex to the wires from the disposal. But using the box you showed and installing the GFCI with the disposal plug would be fine. If you do that, use the bottom hole in the box to pull in the Romex to avoid any openings in the top of the box.

 

[moogleberry]

If you want to install a different brand of disposal, and/or increase the power of the disposal, there are no problems in doing so as long as the amperage of the new unit isn't more than the capacity of the existing circuit. That American Standard unit is around 8 amps, so as long as you don't have a big toaster or some other large appliance on that same circuit, you should be fine. Some units are larger than others and could require plumbing changes to get them to fit.

On the plug, I have simply removed the plug wiring from some disposals and hardwired the disposal with the existing Romex. I've also seen, although I wouldn't suggest it, where a person cut off the plug, installed an electrical box, and then used wire nuts to connect the old Romex to the wires from the disposal. But using the box you showed and installing the GFCI with the disposal plug would be fine. If you do that, use the bottom hole in the box to pull in the Romex to avoid any openings in the top of the box.

Thank you for the info, I was looking to do exactly that regarding the box wiring. If I end up doing this, do people do something like seal the faceplate to the box to further prevent water? I did read that such a box should not be fully sealed however.

On the amperage, yes, I've seen that on the unit itself it says 7.5 amps and the breaker is labeled 15 amps, and I have a 15 amp GFCI outlet. I believe there is nothing else on the circuit.

Still on the fence about doing this vs getting a direct wired disposal while I do my reading up on various things.

 

[moogleberry]

They are push pull type stop valves that have the hose built on. These hoses do not last forever.


You have cpvc pipe. Cpvc gets brittle as it ages. This push pull stops get harder to push and pull over time.

You can break the cpvc if you’re not careful turning the water off with those stops. They’re the worst of the worst and they should be illegal in my professional opinion. They’re not a good product for the homeowner.

Yikes, that sounds terrible. As far as I know, the whole house uses that cpvc as it's visible from the main shutoff valve and at every sink/toilet. The polybutylene piping was replaced with this I believe 10 years ago. I read some sites say it can start getting brittle right around then? Though some claim it is supposed to last 50 years? Thank you for letting me know, though I'm quite certain I'm not capable of such a replacement myself and would need a professional.

 

[MicEd69]

Thank you for the info, I was looking to do exactly that regarding the box wiring. If I end up doing this, do people do something like seal the faceplate to the box to further prevent water? I did read that such a box should not be fully sealed however.

On the amperage, yes, I've seen that on the unit itself it says 7.5 amps and the breaker is labeled 15 amps, and I have a 15 amp GFCI outlet. I believe there is nothing else on the circuit.

Still on the fence about doing this vs getting a direct wired disposal while I do my reading up on various things.

There are no issues at all about installing the box. As I said, just run the wires up from a bottom hole and there is no need to seal the faceplate. I've also installed boxes in the cabinet wall with a GFIC and used the plug that came with the disposal. In new or renovating construction, installing a box with a GFIC allows an electrician to install the electric and leave so the plumber can then install the disposal without having to call the electrician back in to hard wire it. In new construction, it's done A LOT!

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

The ISE Badger is a piece of junk.
The American Standards by Costco are a LOT better…and way less costly.
Adding an outlet box for a plug-in is pretty standard. I’ve done three recently with no issues. In some cases the outlet in the back wall in others sitting on the cabinet wall, depending on where the wire is coming from.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

The ISE Badger is a piece of junk.
The American Standards by Costco are a LOT better…and way less costly.
Adding an outlet box for a plug-in is pretty standard. I’ve done three recently with no issues. In some cases the outlet in the back wall in others sitting on the cabinet wall, depending on where the wire is coming from.

The American Standard Slimline unit, in red of course, has a motor/grinding chamber assembly which is nearly as narrow as the mounting assembly which is a boon for those of us with cramped under-sink spaces, looks very attractive, has great pricing and it still has a horsepower rating of 1.25! Thanks to Moogleberry and you for the suggestions.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

My own house has a slim line GE disposal. You can’t buy a GE disposal at retail, at least I don’t think so. I believe it’s part of a package that the GE reps offer to builders who want to have one source for all appliances.. the GE dishwasher was a piece of junk and that has been replaced already and as soon as that GE disposal fails, it will be replaced with the slimline American Standard. But for some strange reason it keeps on working!

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

Our place had GE builder’s grade, ie crappy, appliances the dishwasher, washer, dryer, microwave and electric range all survived til the end of their warranty and an ISE Badger disposal that worked for about six years before it locked up as solid as a cheese-eating, opioid-addicted person who refuses to eat fiber or veggies.

The replacement better quality ISE has been functional since then and still works but more space under the sink would be nice and I think the grinding mechanisms are dulling.

The GE Profile reefer, however, has been going strong for over 25 years without a glitch. They don’t build ‘em like they used I guess!

 

[moogleberry]

Just updating with where I'm at. Installed the outlet and tested with a lamp. Test/reset on the outlet works as it should.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I wish the NEC would require GFCI protection for the switched outlet under the sink.

This would generate a lot of simple service calls to reset the outlet for me !

The reset switch on the disposal itself makes me about $500 a year. Yes, the overload protection.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I wish the NEC would require GFCI protection for the switched outlet under the sink.

This would generate a lot of simple service calls to reset the outlet for me !

The reset switch on the disposal itself makes me about $500 a year. Yes, the overload protection.

I like it!

 

[moogleberry]

I wish the NEC would require GFCI protection for the switched outlet under the sink.

This would generate a lot of simple service calls to reset the outlet for me !

The reset switch on the disposal itself makes me about $500 a year. Yes, the overload protection.

Sorry I don't understand what you're trying to tell me. It just trips when there's no problem and you have to press the reset button when it's actually ok?

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

Although I could be wrong, I think he was having some fun with the fact that there are a lot of us out there that can’t or won’t even do the very basic in troubleshooting before calling in a pro and spending big bucks to press a button to restore normal ops.

 

[moogleberry]

Ok, I think I'm done. The actual install was pretty easy and it appears to work well without leaks. Tested running the water, disposal, and dishwasher. However, the waste pipe coming out of the disposal was a little different length and I had to adjust the placement of the P-trap, is that the right term? Doing so, I cracked the nut and while it wasn't leaking, it seemed like a bad thing to leave as-is, so I went to buy a new one and replaced it. The purple primer for the pvc adhesive dripped a bit but only on the pipe. Hopefully this is it for now. I've still got a shallow pan underneath for now, just in case.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

Nicely played! Love the red!