Removing Dip tube- Cant removes as threads seem stuck...

[Ludington]

Did you ever check for power? After the top runs and turns off ?

 

[sarg]

Cannot be that complicated.
Bad element
Bad thermostat
Broken dip tube
Bad wire i.e. as Ludington implies ... no power.
What else is there ?

 

[Ludington]

I would bet money, that bottom element isn't firing. If he is getting a few gallons of hot, then nothing, it seems the top is working, even if the dip tube is broke, the top should fire when it runs out of hot water, then the bottom should fire. So, bad thermostat (top or bottom) or bad wire.

 

[MicEd69]

He says his hot water runs out really fast, but then says he can't fill a standard tub anymore. I've never seen a dip tube broken off halfway down, so if it is broken off at the top, he would be running out of hot water super-fast! I think Ludington is right.

And issues like this are why I like gas water heaters. You see fire, you can't see electrons.

 

[homeby5]

EDIT:
Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time.
I also played with the upper and lower thermostats to verify 240V across each element. One at a time. They seem to be kicking on and off.
I also measured 19.5A or so on each element when turned on.

As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).

So...I can assume that my heating elements are good and my next step would be to change the dip tube anyway...right?
Thanks guys

 

[homeby5]

Was under the assumption that he was getting some hot, which would seem to say top is firing but bottom is not. And yes, if hecdrains all hot out, the top should fire, then the bottom to complete... still seems like a bottom element or thermostat...
But that's just my logic.
Also surprised you found parts for that whirlpool. I have one (24 years old) but they don't build them or make parts.
Did you check the ohms on the elements ? Take the wires off first then check, should be 10-20 ohms (roughly)

I checked again. See my post above. Thanks

 

[MicEd69]

EDIT:
Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time.
I also played with the upper and lower thermostats to verify 240V across each element. One at a time. They seem to be kicking on and off.
I also measured 19.5A or so on each element when turned on.

As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).

So...I can assume that my heating elements are good and my next step would be to change the dip tube anyway...right?
Thanks guys

As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."

If the dip tube is intact, then you have an electrical problem.

 

[homeby5]

As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."

If the dip tube is intact, then you have an electrical problem.

Oh I'm going to do that...no doubt. I already bought the new DT. The issue was I was afraid of breaking nipple inside tank which then would cause me to buy a new WH. Others then offered suggestions. I guess it never hurts to double check everything anyway. Thanks again.