Did you ever check for power? After the top runs and turns off ?
Removing Dip tube- Cant removes as threads seem stuck...
- Thread starter homeby5
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sarg
Well-Known Member
Cannot be that complicated.
Bad element
Bad thermostat
Broken dip tube
Bad wire i.e. as Ludington implies ... no power.
What else is there ?
Bad element
Bad thermostat
Broken dip tube
Bad wire i.e. as Ludington implies ... no power.
What else is there ?
I would bet money, that bottom element isn't firing. If he is getting a few gallons of hot, then nothing, it seems the top is working, even if the dip tube is broke, the top should fire when it runs out of hot water, then the bottom should fire. So, bad thermostat (top or bottom) or bad wire.
He says his hot water runs out really fast, but then says he can't fill a standard tub anymore. I've never seen a dip tube broken off halfway down, so if it is broken off at the top, he would be running out of hot water super-fast! I think Ludington is right.
And issues like this are why I like gas water heaters. You see fire, you can't see electrons.
And issues like this are why I like gas water heaters. You see fire, you can't see electrons.
homeby5
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Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 240V across each terminal on both the bottom and top heating elements and 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time? I also can feel the heat on the insulation when I remove the top access panel to check voltage.
This tells me that both elements are staying on all the time...right? Doesn't the thermostat contacts only allow one or the other or will both stay on to heat up water? Would the 30A breaker allow for both to be on without tripping? I can put a clamp on ammeter on element wire to verify amperage?
As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 240V across each terminal on both the bottom and top heating elements and 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time? I also can feel the heat on the insulation when I remove the top access panel to check voltage.
This tells me that both elements are staying on all the time...right? Doesn't the thermostat contacts only allow one or the other or will both stay on to heat up water? Would the 30A breaker allow for both to be on without tripping? I can put a clamp on ammeter on element wire to verify amperage?
As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).
