Removing Dip tube- Cant removes as threads seem stuck...

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Cannot be that complicated.
Bad element
Bad thermostat
Broken dip tube
Bad wire i.e. as Ludington implies ... no power.
What else is there ?
 
I would bet money, that bottom element isn't firing. If he is getting a few gallons of hot, then nothing, it seems the top is working, even if the dip tube is broke, the top should fire when it runs out of hot water, then the bottom should fire. So, bad thermostat (top or bottom) or bad wire.
 
He says his hot water runs out really fast, but then says he can't fill a standard tub anymore. I've never seen a dip tube broken off halfway down, so if it is broken off at the top, he would be running out of hot water super-fast! I think Ludington is right.

And issues like this are why I like gas water heaters. You see fire, you can't see electrons.
 
EDIT:
Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time.
I also played with the upper and lower thermostats to verify 240V across each element. One at a time. They seem to be kicking on and off.
I also measured 19.5A or so on each element when turned on.

As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).

So...I can assume that my heating elements are good and my next step would be to change the dip tube anyway...right?
Thanks guys
 
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Was under the assumption that he was getting some hot, which would seem to say top is firing but bottom is not. And yes, if hecdrains all hot out, the top should fire, then the bottom to complete... still seems like a bottom element or thermostat...
But that's just my logic.
Also surprised you found parts for that whirlpool. I have one (24 years old) but they don't build them or make parts.
Did you check the ohms on the elements ? Take the wires off first then check, should be 10-20 ohms (roughly)
I checked again. See my post above. Thanks
 
EDIT:
Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time.
I also played with the upper and lower thermostats to verify 240V across each element. One at a time. They seem to be kicking on and off.
I also measured 19.5A or so on each element when turned on.

As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).

So...I can assume that my heating elements are good and my next step would be to change the dip tube anyway...right?
Thanks guys
As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."

If the dip tube is intact, then you have an electrical problem.
 
As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."

If the dip tube is intact, then you have an electrical problem.
Oh I'm going to do that...no doubt. I already bought the new DT. The issue was I was afraid of breaking nipple inside tank which then would cause me to buy a new WH. Others then offered suggestions. I guess it never hurts to double check everything anyway. Thanks again.
 
You say you adjusted the lower thermostat and it turned on. So if you adjust it up so it urns on , like 150 degrees, does it stay on and Heat the tank up?
 
You say you adjusted the lower thermostat and it turned on. So if you adjust it up so it urns on , like 150 degrees, does it stay on and Heat the tank up?
I usually leave both Tstats at around 145 or so and the tank heats up, at least as far as I can tell because both thermostats are usually off. As soon as I adjust them a hair up, I can hear them click on and the current flows to the element. Again...both elements are carrying around 19A or so according to my clamp on. And yes...the tanks hot water is hot. Just runs out after about 5-10 minutes when filling a tub. So I assume the Tstats and elements are working fine and fairly accurate. That's why I was guessing the DT was broken.
I've really doublechecked about everything I can do (unless you have another recommendation) except change the DT. I'm going to change it real soon...and I assumed it would have been a 15 minute job but I started this thread because I am afraid of breaking the coupling threads on the cold water inlet inside the tank which means I would be without any HW until I replace the tank. I never changed one before and was looking for some pointers of breaking it free...which I thankfully received.
Ill report back and give you guys and update on whether the existing DT was the issue once I get off my butt and commit to either breaking the DT free or ruining the cold water nipple trying to break it free.
 
Do you have a thermostatic mixing valve for the tub ? Sometimes they’re hidden under cabinets or even under the tub itself.

I’m assuming this is a big soaking or jetted tub.
 
Do you have a thermostatic mixing valve for the tub ? Sometimes they’re hidden under cabinets or even under the tub itself.

I’m assuming this is a big soaking or jetted tub.
Nah...its a regular smaller tub like in any house. It used to fill up real hot...no problem. This issue started about 6 months ago. The reason I haven't messed with it until now is I've been out of town for 4 months up in Canada and Alaska. I changed the lower element and drained tank before I left and thought it would be solved.
 
Do you have a camera that you could run down the dip tube >?
Or, just put a wrench on it and geterdone
I'm just going to crank it until it busts loose or breaks. Just waiting till I have a full day available so if it breaks I can run and buy another HW heater to replace. Probably one day next week.
 
Since you’re confident the elements and thermostats are good and operating correctly I’d check for a hot water leak. I’d do a draw test on the water heater also. The manufacturer should be able to provide you draw test instructions.
 
Since you’re confident the elements and thermostats are good and operating correctly I’d check for a hot water leak. I’d do a draw test on the water heater also. The manufacturer should be able to provide you draw test instructions.
Tank is to old, not made anymore. Like mine 20+ years old. Surprised he could find replacement parts.
 
Tank is to old, not made anymore. Like mine 20+ years old. Surprised he could find replacement parts.
What if it’s not the water heater ? Most residential electric water heaters in the last 50 yrs use basically the same parts, there’s a couple out there that take special parts.
 

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