Did you ever check for power? After the top runs and turns off ?
I checked again. See my post above. ThanksWas under the assumption that he was getting some hot, which would seem to say top is firing but bottom is not. And yes, if hecdrains all hot out, the top should fire, then the bottom to complete... still seems like a bottom element or thermostat...
But that's just my logic.
Also surprised you found parts for that whirlpool. I have one (24 years old) but they don't build them or make parts.
Did you check the ohms on the elements ? Take the wires off first then check, should be 10-20 ohms (roughly)
As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."EDIT:
Ok...Update:
I double checked the power at both elements and the power through both thermostats. I have 120V to ground on both legs of both elements at the same time.
I also played with the upper and lower thermostats to verify 240V across each element. One at a time. They seem to be kicking on and off.
I also measured 19.5A or so on each element when turned on.
As a reminder, the bottom element is new and the ohmage value is correct (same as the older one and IIRC...about 14ohms, but that's from memory).
So...I can assume that my heating elements are good and my next step would be to change the dip tube anyway...right?
Thanks guys
Oh I'm going to do that...no doubt. I already bought the new DT. The issue was I was afraid of breaking nipple inside tank which then would cause me to buy a new WH. Others then offered suggestions. I guess it never hurts to double check everything anyway. Thanks again.As I said earlier, "...since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely."
If the dip tube is intact, then you have an electrical problem.
I usually leave both Tstats at around 145 or so and the tank heats up, at least as far as I can tell because both thermostats are usually off. As soon as I adjust them a hair up, I can hear them click on and the current flows to the element. Again...both elements are carrying around 19A or so according to my clamp on. And yes...the tanks hot water is hot. Just runs out after about 5-10 minutes when filling a tub. So I assume the Tstats and elements are working fine and fairly accurate. That's why I was guessing the DT was broken.You say you adjusted the lower thermostat and it turned on. So if you adjust it up so it urns on , like 150 degrees, does it stay on and Heat the tank up?
LOL. Showers are not an issue. It's just trying to take a real hot bath. used to do that fine but no more.( Sounds like it's time to switch to short showers. )
Nah...its a regular smaller tub like in any house. It used to fill up real hot...no problem. This issue started about 6 months ago. The reason I haven't messed with it until now is I've been out of town for 4 months up in Canada and Alaska. I changed the lower element and drained tank before I left and thought it would be solved.Do you have a thermostatic mixing valve for the tub ? Sometimes they’re hidden under cabinets or even under the tub itself.
I’m assuming this is a big soaking or jetted tub.
I'm just going to crank it until it busts loose or breaks. Just waiting till I have a full day available so if it breaks I can run and buy another HW heater to replace. Probably one day next week.Do you have a camera that you could run down the dip tube >?
Or, just put a wrench on it and geterdone
Tank is to old, not made anymore. Like mine 20+ years old. Surprised he could find replacement parts.Since you’re confident the elements and thermostats are good and operating correctly I’d check for a hot water leak. I’d do a draw test on the water heater also. The manufacturer should be able to provide you draw test instructions.
What if it’s not the water heater ? Most residential electric water heaters in the last 50 yrs use basically the same parts, there’s a couple out there that take special parts.Tank is to old, not made anymore. Like mine 20+ years old. Surprised he could find replacement parts.
My whirlpool does not.... not an element or thermostat to be found.What if it’s not the water heater ? Most residential electric water heaters in the last 50 yrs use basically the same parts, there’s a couple out there that take special parts.
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