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I lived in Southeast Asia for awhile. There would sometimes be queues waiting on the squat stall. Some people thought it was gross to sit on a seat that other people sat on. Sometimes in places that didn't have squat toilets we'd find shoe-prints on the seats.
In Malaysia people would just squat in/over ditches and relieve themselves.
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20220719_145810.jpgMore rotten floor. Found out my issue wasthe a/c condensate line leaking from the top of that 1 1/2 ABS pipe. I now have to chisel the glue from the plywood, which is glued to my concrete floor, using a glue/vapor barrier. I will set durock in thinset, then click the floor back in. Oh, patch drywall, and add baseboards.
 

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I can, but since it is towards the front of the house, we don't a pipe protruding from the attic dripping and splashing water down into the flower bed by the front door. He is coming tomorrow where I want to place a secondary condensate line out the front, which will only be used to alert me that the drip pan is filling up in the event dust and dirt clogs the primary drain.
 
It writes of a condensate line, but I don't see it anywhere .
It sure doesn’t show it. I wish I could explain how it hooks up but I can’t, I’ve never used one.

I clicked on the documents and nothing comes up.
 
I'm going out to search for a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2' x 3/4" tee in ABS, so this condensate line will fit tight. Currently, they used a 3/4' spade bit, drilled a wonky hole, then used the silver tape after shoving in the 3/4" condensate line in the oversized, ragged edged hole. They then used silver backed duct tape to seal it, which doesn't work too good in a 140 degree attic. If unsuccessful, I will try to find a PVC tee, then use PVC to ABS glue. I know the blue box has 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x threaded 1/2", but I don't like that restriction for a condensate line.
 
It really should drop indirectly into a ptrap. It shouldn’t be directly connected to the piping.
 
I see what you are saying, but using duct tape to hold in in the pipe just isn't cutting it. I suppose I could drill a hole down the wall and discharge it lower, but that becomes a wet vent and I don;t want to jeopardize having a leak that I would need to repair a third time. I also don't want PVC going down my new stucco'ed wall. With forethought, I would have run a PVC line prior to the stucco being added, but ....oh well.
 
You could cut a sanitary tee into the standpipe and install a small box beside your existing washing machine box.

This way it drains indirectly and it has another source to keep the trap primed. It also gives you access to the termination point.
 
6 gallon 14 year old heater.
 

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You could cut a sanitary tee into the standpipe and install a small box beside your existing washing machine box.

This way it drains indirectly and it has another source to keep the trap primed. It also gives you access to the termination point.
Great idea but the front load washers push a tremendous amount of water, and I can't chance that water could blow out, causing more issues.
 
Great idea but the front load washers push a tremendous amount of water, and I can't chance that water could blow out, causing more issues.
The washing machine can back up now, it’s the same thing. Your new box could even be higher than you washer box now.

I’ll draw you a pic in a minute376B01E5-565E-463B-A7E3-BA1F98ECE3D6.jpeg
 
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I called the installer and showed him what I want him to install tomorrow. I'm also demanding a secondary drain over a window, just in case the condensate line gets clogged. He has a 120v water alarm installed already, but what good is an alarm when nobody is home?20220720_111613.jpg
 
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