No hub cast iron Imperfect vent connection

[branimal]

Isn't this trap for the tub that's going to be 12" off the wall? If so trap should be where continuos waste and overflow can slip straight into it with the adaptor fredo showed you earlier. That will give you more room to modify piping.

The trap has to be right next to a joist for the tub I ordered.

I had my tub drain and vent completely built out but frodo pointed out my crown vent.

So I moved my wye further away from the trap. I can either fix this with a cut or try to refigure something else out. Im gonna try the cut bc I've got an extra 1/4 bend laying around.

Just googled crown vents :
"A "Crown Vent" is a vent that is located within 2 pipe diameters of the trap it is serving.

When a vent is that close it is more subjected to fouling of hair, soap oils, grease, and other debris because; the flow of water does not have a chance to dissipate thus reaching the top of the pipe where the vent is during discharge causing premature failure. "

 

[frodo]

, cut it with a grinder and cut off wheel, then pretty it with an abrasive wheel

there is an alternate option.

option #1
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Everflow-21326-2-IPS-x-1-1-2-SJ-Nut-with-Cleanout-LA-Pattern-Trap-Rough-Brass

option #2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-1-1-2-034-DWV-Copper-22-5-Elbow-22-5-Degree-1-16TH-LOW-S-H-MIX-MATCH-ORDERS-/140899559419

offset the riser from the trap with 2, 22.5 degree bends NOT A 45 OFFSET

 

[branimal]

I'll give the the 2 1/16th bends a shot. I'm gonna wait until the tub arrives before I drive myself nuts.

 

[frodo]

we call that brain f====it

buy 1 street 22 and 1 regular

 

[Mr_David]

a couple question. Are you required to use cast iron pipe.

after all that with the p-trap and vent, where does the pipe go I see a 90 turned down at the end. Does it turn again and change direction horizontally with another 90?
Would seem to be easier to put a tapped santee at wall. Run the vent straight out of the top of the santee . Put a 90 on the bottom.
Then use a DWV p-trap You can rotate the weir on the trap to set any where you need it. Unlike the no hub trap that is fixed.

 

[branimal]

My bathroom fixture layout left the toilet and tub too close for comfort. I changed the layout by swapping the tub and shower. Which means I had to move the drains around.

Due to tight spacing and already laid long run pipes to the main stack I was forced to be creative. Both setups involve the wye being BELOW the ptrap. Is that acceptable?

 

[frodo]

http://www.mrsupply.com/2-no-hub-1-16-bend-tyler-pipe-007494-cast-iron-no-hub-1-16-bend-2-in.html?gclid=CKL2q63k0tMCFVi1wAodUzEBjQ

this guy shows one

 

[frodo]

that is called an "S" trap. no it is not legal

 

[branimal]

a couple question. Are you required to use cast iron pipe.



after all that with the p-trap and vent, where does the pipe go I see a 90 turned down at the end. Does it turn again and change direction horizontally with another 90?

Would seem to be easier to put a tapped santee at wall. Run the vent straight out of the top of the santee . Put a 90 on the bottom.

Then use a DWV p-trap You can rotate the weir on the trap to set any where you need it. Unlike the no hub trap that is fixed.

Missed this post. I'll read up on tapped sanitary tees. This might save me going insane. I thought sanitary wyes were required for some reason.

Oh and yes I am required to use no hub cast iron.

Thanks.

 

[branimal]

that is called an "S" trap. no it is not legal

View attachment 14783

Thanks frodo!

 

[branimal]

The drains for the shower and tub are 5' and 7.5' feet away. They join at a wye and then into the main stack. That stack is sort of in an inaccessible spot. Here's a diagram of what I'm working with.

Can I put a sanitary tee after the wye and run that to vent? Are my drain runs too far away from the vent lines?

 

[branimal]

Ok I believe I solved the shower drain. See pic below.

The tub was a pain. Mostly because the pipe straps keep falling off when I'm trying to add pieces.

But I think this might work. See drawing.

 

[Mr_David]

Missed this post. I'll read up on tapped sanitary tees. This might save me going insane. I thought sanitary wyes were required for some reason.

Oh and yes I am required to use no hub cast iron.

Thanks.

here is an example of a 1-1/2" copper drain to 2" cast.
First picture is back to back tubs with the drains exposed in a garage.
You can reduce the depth by tilting the tapped santee 45 degrees.
The plus about using a DWV P-Trap is you can rotate the U.
Unlike the no hub p-trap is fixed to the weir

2nd pic is a tapped santé in vertical position with vent going up into a wall

 

[branimal]

Cool pics Mr David. Being able to rotate the U on my ptrap would have saved me a lot of time.

 

[branimal]

Think I figured out my tub drain. The 1/6 bend connected to the 1/16 created a nice downward slope. I'll cut the pieces tomorrow and finish it off. Might roll my wye just a bit higher.

 

[branimal]

Tub and shower drains laid out. Ran a water test (full open on the hot water) and they are both water tight.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

 

[frodo]

.............

 

[branimal]

I can replace some of the 90s with 2 45 turns.

I've got 4 90s. Under the joist is two 45 turns.

#2 below is an 82.5 degree but basically a 90. I needed that to create a downward slope.

 

[frodo]

a clean-out is required whenever the change in direction is more than 135 degrees.

4 x 90 = 360 degrees

 

[branimal]

a clean-out is required whenever the change in direction is more than 135 degrees.

4 x 90 = 360 degrees

Thanks frodo.

How would I access it the clean out? It's a tiled wall. The other side is a closet. I could build an access panel.


How can I avoid the clean out? And get my drains running with fewer turns. I don't really understand MrDavids proposal on using a sanity tee to vent the tub and shower. Can someone explain that?