Yes, Zanne, they have plain, olive oil, butter, etc.
Need to replace one-piece fiberglass shower/tub
- Thread starter Zanne
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Last time I went in I only saw butter flavor but I can check the walmart website. I mean, I doubt it would hurt if it was flavored. LOL. I just bought more of the butter spray because I use it a lot. I actually spray it on my pork chops before adding garlic salt and cooking the pork chops in the air fryer.
Would WD40 be bad to use? Or vaseline? Vaseline seems like it might gunk stuff up a bit.
Can't remember if I've mentioned this idea: Since I will have the countertop in the workshop and be able to move it around and such, I was thinking of tacking some paint stirring sticks on as stops on the rear and left side of the countertop (maybe leaving a very slight gap). That will keep the formica from sliding to much when I mark for general cuts. For the front trim piece I can tack the sticks underneath to catch the formica so it will go on relatively straight. Because I absolutely suck at putting things on straight. One only has to look at my extensive VHS collection to see that every single sticker is crooked. LOL.
Formica said to do the front trim piece first. So, if I use the sticks to help line it up, I can apply it first, cover it with masking tape to protect it, and then do the top. Assuming it is actually square, getting the left rear corner squared up could help. I will of course leave a little overhang on the rough cut just in case.
Is it safe to put plastic of some sort in between two sides that have contact cement to keep them from touching until I'm ready to secure them? Sort of like peeling the plastic off of some types of tape?
Would WD40 be bad to use? Or vaseline? Vaseline seems like it might gunk stuff up a bit.
Can't remember if I've mentioned this idea: Since I will have the countertop in the workshop and be able to move it around and such, I was thinking of tacking some paint stirring sticks on as stops on the rear and left side of the countertop (maybe leaving a very slight gap). That will keep the formica from sliding to much when I mark for general cuts. For the front trim piece I can tack the sticks underneath to catch the formica so it will go on relatively straight. Because I absolutely suck at putting things on straight. One only has to look at my extensive VHS collection to see that every single sticker is crooked. LOL.
Formica said to do the front trim piece first. So, if I use the sticks to help line it up, I can apply it first, cover it with masking tape to protect it, and then do the top. Assuming it is actually square, getting the left rear corner squared up could help. I will of course leave a little overhang on the rough cut just in case.
Is it safe to put plastic of some sort in between two sides that have contact cement to keep them from touching until I'm ready to secure them? Sort of like peeling the plastic off of some types of tape?
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You don't want something that might ignite( wd40). Stick with what I mentioned.
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
Say what? Cooking spray is just as flammable as WD-40!
You don’t need to wait for harbor freight to get this back in stock. There are trimmer routers available and in stock at Amazon as low as $25. And the same at eBay.
You can can buy a pilot bit on Amazon and have it delivered to you quickly for about $16. Bearings are replaceable by the way. I don’t know where you are but Home Depot is not the only source there’s also Lowe’s, and many major metropolitan areas have a Rockler woodworking as well. There are cheaper ones available at Harbor freight usually in sets. They will not be as high-quality as a Freud.
Go with one with a ball bearing unless you have decided to become a laminate top shop and are going to do this eight hours a day.
You don’t need to wait for harbor freight to get this back in stock. There are trimmer routers available and in stock at Amazon as low as $25. And the same at eBay.
You can can buy a pilot bit on Amazon and have it delivered to you quickly for about $16. Bearings are replaceable by the way. I don’t know where you are but Home Depot is not the only source there’s also Lowe’s, and many major metropolitan areas have a Rockler woodworking as well. There are cheaper ones available at Harbor freight usually in sets. They will not be as high-quality as a Freud.
Go with one with a ball bearing unless you have decided to become a laminate top shop and are going to do this eight hours a day.
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Cooking spray is meant to be used with heat. Proven system in cabinet shops.
three_jeeps
Well-Known Member
orgasmetron??
I think I found a good bit on Lowes (need to find the link again but I think I added it to my cart). Friend who will be helping me had to go to the ER last night for coughing up dark red blood and having trouble breathing. I got the phonecall after midnight and my brain is not in gear.
I'll look at the trim routers on Amazon. I can also check my workshop to see if I have any lying around. There are so many tools I haven't cataloged.
I'll look at the trim routers on Amazon. I can also check my workshop to see if I have any lying around. There are so many tools I haven't cataloged.
RickFlorida
Well-Known Member
My brother and I install our own acrylic tubs/showers to update our old homes here in Florida and this is what I've learned. It's extremely easy to install a shower kit compared to a tub kit. Dropping a tub with little to no access panel is very difficult for non professionals. But installing a shower kit is super easy to me. But as others state here.. you may need to hire professionals or you can cause problems like rough in's that don't fit or you may do more damage than good. I'm a little experienced in remodeling from my uncle's small company and yet it still takes me 2 or 3 months to remodel a bathrooom from ground up. So it's actually cheaper to hire a professional when you factor time and potential for damage.
I helped my friend install his tub and surround & it turned out well. Unfortunately, we're both still feeling sick. He has pneumonia and had to go to he hospital again. I'm still feeling exhausted. Hoping we'll both recovered enough later this month to get stuff done.
No installation yet. Friend has been super busy with life kicking him in the 'nads. He may have cancer but no specialist who can diagnose him will take his insurance and they won't see him bc he has that type of insurance. He can't afford insurance through work.
Anyway, before the dog chewed my laptop cord I was playing around in Sketchup to draw my mother's bathroom. I drew the shelves, vanity, tp holder (but not tp roll), and room in Sketchup. The real vanity has a marbled green top (as shown in some pics before I think). Shelves are unfinished wood (I think birch), vanity is currently green. I did this as a test to show my mother light blue walls and the color countertop she chose with white vanity. She hates the white vanity- wants blue instead.
So, some tests showing the blue colors she picked from paint samples. Vanity is the deep river blue from the back door but we may change. I forget what the wall color is.
Closeup of the side shelf I drew. Current one is stained brown with shelves covered in the marbled green formica.
Bathroom from different angles:
This is the less cluttered version of the bathroom. The outlet near the side shelf is not visible. Cabinet is missing some details. I personally think the shelves and vanity would be better in a different blue and the walls need to be much lighter. She's nixing the idea of some sort of vanity light over the window, even though we really need something other than the crappy broken lamp that is currently on the side shelf (along with a large heavy mirror).
For fun I'm including a rough sketch of my bathroom, which is to the north of mom's bathroom.
Anyway, before the dog chewed my laptop cord I was playing around in Sketchup to draw my mother's bathroom. I drew the shelves, vanity, tp holder (but not tp roll), and room in Sketchup. The real vanity has a marbled green top (as shown in some pics before I think). Shelves are unfinished wood (I think birch), vanity is currently green. I did this as a test to show my mother light blue walls and the color countertop she chose with white vanity. She hates the white vanity- wants blue instead.
So, some tests showing the blue colors she picked from paint samples. Vanity is the deep river blue from the back door but we may change. I forget what the wall color is.
Closeup of the side shelf I drew. Current one is stained brown with shelves covered in the marbled green formica.
Bathroom from different angles:
This is the less cluttered version of the bathroom. The outlet near the side shelf is not visible. Cabinet is missing some details. I personally think the shelves and vanity would be better in a different blue and the walls need to be much lighter. She's nixing the idea of some sort of vanity light over the window, even though we really need something other than the crappy broken lamp that is currently on the side shelf (along with a large heavy mirror).
For fun I'm including a rough sketch of my bathroom, which is to the north of mom's bathroom.
Mom changed her mind and doesn't want to use the light we purchased to go above her window. But I found a rechargable battery powered one that can stick on without screws and has a magnetic base. The light itself can be taken down and charged. It has 2 remote controls.
Meanwhile, even though my friend put hot and cold through the wrong holes under the house (got them switched) we now have the water hooked up. I connected the hoses to the new shutoffs but couldn't get the old ones off. Friend came over and I had him drain the lines into a bucket until they ran as clear as my tap water can get & then hooked them up. They crossover each other but hopefully that won't be an issue. Eventually I'd like to get them run through properly, but for now I have water.
And since I have water I was able to do my flooring mix and level the floor a bit more. It's not perfect and I stepped in it accidentally and messed a spot up, but it won't be seen under the vinyl sheet.
I already went and smoothed it out a bit more after it dried a bit. I plan to sand it after it dries a bit more-- but when its still soft enough for sanding to work. Filled in some of the pits at least.
Got confused after Mom distracted me and reversed the ratio of the powder to water. Derp. Had to desperately sift the powder (which was full of chunks) through a sieve to get enough powder to get the right texture.. But before that it splashed all over. I needed to repaint those cabinets anyway. I'll sand them off and the wall is going to have wainscoting. I actually plan to cut some of the wall panel off to run some plumbing.
Meanwhile, even though my friend put hot and cold through the wrong holes under the house (got them switched) we now have the water hooked up. I connected the hoses to the new shutoffs but couldn't get the old ones off. Friend came over and I had him drain the lines into a bucket until they ran as clear as my tap water can get & then hooked them up. They crossover each other but hopefully that won't be an issue. Eventually I'd like to get them run through properly, but for now I have water.
And since I have water I was able to do my flooring mix and level the floor a bit more. It's not perfect and I stepped in it accidentally and messed a spot up, but it won't be seen under the vinyl sheet.
I already went and smoothed it out a bit more after it dried a bit. I plan to sand it after it dries a bit more-- but when its still soft enough for sanding to work. Filled in some of the pits at least.
Got confused after Mom distracted me and reversed the ratio of the powder to water. Derp. Had to desperately sift the powder (which was full of chunks) through a sieve to get enough powder to get the right texture.. But before that it splashed all over. I needed to repaint those cabinets anyway. I'll sand them off and the wall is going to have wainscoting. I actually plan to cut some of the wall panel off to run some plumbing.
It's all dry now. Dark stuff is stains from the additive splashing out. That chunk of spilled mix on the closet flange (visible in this picture) is now gone. I scraped it off and cleaned out stuff from the screw head as well.
That does not look flat. IN my honest opinion, you need to get a bag of self leveling compound, mix it correctly, and pour it in.
Havasu is correct. Self leveling floor compounds do not need to be trowled.
I was laying wood plank flooring on a room addition with a new concrete slab. The new concrete settled 1/4" low, which is unacceptable for a glue down plank wood floor. I purchased a 50 pound bag of SLC, mixed it with the appropriate amount of water, poured it on the low spot and walked away. 8 hours later, I was gluing flooring to a perfectly level floor.
Oh its nowhere near flat and the mix was not self-leveling. It was manual leveling. I did the best I could. I cleaned up and folded the sheet vinyl back over it. Legs were bugging me so I'm sitting down but once I clean up in there more I'm going to see how it feels to walk on it barefoot. The area where the toilet sits feels flat enough to put the toilet in. I still have that underlayment as a buffer under the vinyl sheet and its fairly thick vinyl sheet with some kind of backing so it is more forgiving of small bumps. It's close enough for government work. I will see how it feels walking on it barefoot after I do more vacuuming/cleaning.
I need to take everything out that is sitting on the sheet vinyl so I can pivot it a bit and get it straightened out a bit more. Need to take the painter's tape off the left edge. I see the hole for the closet flange might be too big off to the left (hoping adjustment will fix that, but worst case I still have some leftovers of the sheet vinyl I can cover that with. I'm not worried about it looking too pretty. The lumps are from it not laying flat due to air bubbles and it being a bit twisted. I've got tools and buckets and stuff sitting on top that make it so I can't move it the way I want. As I said, all that will have to come out. I also desperately need to sweep, vacuum, and clean with apple cider vinegar. I need to pull the back corner on the left (not visible in this picture) over a tad. The walls will have beadboard wainscoting and baseboard (if it will fit behind the toilet). Might have to trim baseboard around the toilet, but thats fine with me. I nabbed some giant paper sheets for free from Samsclub (employee practically begged me to take them so he wouldn't have to deal with them) that I can use for templates for stuff. I'm going to sit the toilet base down, trace it out, and mark the holes for the bolts. Need to move some furniture in my room first though. Also absolutely need to push that toilet supply line down a little. Don't know why my friend left it so long like that. Worst case it can always be trimmed. Can't remember if shutoff is push-fit or cinch and I forgot to look.
I've cleaned up and adjusted the vinyl. Moved everything off the floor (except a broom). Found some mouse holes in the walls that I need to fill. I vacuumed over and under the vinyl. After filling holes I'll secure the vinyl and trim the excess. Once I have it secured and am happy with it, I'll bring the toilet in and make sure it fits and see if it covers the gap next to the flange.
