Need to replace one-piece fiberglass shower/tub

[Zanne]

I've discovered that I need some sort of magnifier for the measuring tape. Mine has the numbers on it but I read them- they look like ants. Send help! LOL.

I want to build a box similar to the one I need to put under my tub to support the cut joist but for this one I want it under Mom's toilet to reinforce the subfloor. I should have enough leveling mix left over to patch the surface layer if need be. If the floor can be repaired I will put a vapor barrier over it (hey, it saved the subfloor in my bathroom) and put the plywood on top. It will raise the height of the floor 1/4" overall but that shouldn't be a big deal. But, I want to add some 1x2 furring strips on top of the 2x4s when raising the countertop. I'm still debating what laminate to put on the counter or if I should try painting it. I want to replace the fugly sink. There's an Aquasource 19" round sink with overflow that looks decent. It's about $39 but I've seen complaints of the holes not being drilled properly so I'm on the fence. I don't want to spend too much on it but want something at least 6.5" deep. I'd found one I really liked that was 8" deep inside but it is no longer available.

I need at least 7'5" of sheet vinyl (and that is bare minimum) to span from the shower to under the vanity's toekick. Will need at least 6'2" to cover from the side wall to the door threshold. I believe the sheet I have is 8'x12' but I'll have to confirm. I want to save enough that I can have some leftover to cover the guest bathroom. I think if I have the 8' part span the 7'5" area and then cut the 12' part to 6'5" I should have enough for both rooms. I pretty much need almost 5'5x5'5" for the guest bathroom.

Working on a Sketchup model of mom's bathroom.


I noticed that the vanity itself is actually not as long as the countertop from side to side and the gaps were covered with quarter round painted to match the vanity.
In this sketch I've drawn in the 2x4s raising the countertop up. I'd shorten the backsplash to about 2" to not conflict with the power outlet.

I'm still trying to figure out what height to put the showerhead and whether or not it needs to come out from the shower surround wall or if I can get it above. The diverter for it is up fairly high on the showerhead/top of slidebar (I need to check which one) so I need for Mom to be able to reach it while standing without much effort.

The shelves in the bathroom were built by my father out of 3/4" thick boards. I didn't draw in the tp holder yet as I was concentrating on other measurements. He only put the face trim on the lower shelves. Never got around to the upper one and he'd fully intended to add doors to make the shelves into cabinets. If lumber prices ever go down and I can get my shoulder working enough to reach up high enough I can try to finish making the cabinets.

In this sketch I also sized the shower space to 60"- it's currently 59". I looked inside the closet and there is a different wall panel in there so I hope there are some 2x4s or something in the wall that can be trimmed back where the shower walls will go.

In the adjacent bathroom, once I finish getting the leveling mix spread to take away some of the pits, I will use the underlay insulation under some 1/4" plywood and then I'll put down the sheet vinyl. I'll probably do an additional vapor barrier underneath as well just in case. It saved the subfloor before.

I just had brain freeze.

 

[Zanne]

I added a sink about the right size and the little weird shelf that came with the bathroom when we first moved in. I think it used to be on the wall closer to the shower but I don't remember. Maybe it was in this spot all along. It's a stained wood that looks brown and has the same marbled green formica as the countertop. Now, we could peel it off and paint it or we could put new formica over it.

Toekick will have to get painted as it is the same color/pattern as the wall panels. I didn't draw in the weird detail on the walls where it goes in more. I don't know if that was decorative or if they didn't have enough ceiling tiles so they made the ceiling area smaller.

I'm trying to decide between two sinks. A 19" round Sterling sink or an 18-7/8" round Kohler sink (I know both are the same brand). One has a deeper basin than the other. Although one says it needs a faucet with a reach of 5" but the Moen Caldwell (which is what Mom already has and she picked out for her bathroom) only has 4-3/4". According to the specs the center of the holes for the faucet are only 2-11/16" away from the edge. The other sink doesn't specify required reach. I wish I could find a sink the same size and shape as her existing one. It's about 18-7/8" round. I need to measure basin depth from rim (on the inside) again.

 

[Zanne]

I apparently forgot to add updated sketchup pics. PC died so I can't access sketchup. Saved some pics to a portable drive that I'm able to access.

 

[Zanne]

Countertop samples arrived today. As I suspected, Mom selected Formica Spectrum Blue as her favorite. I played a little game where I handed them to her one at a time. I started with the one I thought she would like the least and ended with the spectrum blue. There were 4 samples. She got to Lapis blue and said "This is the one!" then I channeled Billy Mays and said "But wait, there's more". She said "Oooh! This one is better!" LOL.

Lavatory is ordered. Decided to go with a Toto from Build .com. CS agent was kind enough to put in a coupon for me (bc I initially derped and ordered the wrong one).

Next step is to compare the formica sample with paint chips to see what colors complement it since she won't go with white.

This is the spectrum blue:

 

[SHEPLMBR]

That is very blue.

 

[Zanne]

Blue is Mom's favorite color. She likes to wear outfits that are entirely blue. Likes to have it matching blue but sometimes will go with a few shades darker or lighter. When I was younger she wouldn't even allow for variation in shade. Had to match completely. And she can see more colors than I can so what looks the same color to me looks different to her.
So, my approximation of some color options:
The Spectrum Blue countertop with Behr Deep River for the cabinets, and Sky Blue for the walls.

I'll have to run it by her and see what she thinks. But it is very very blue. I'm thinking painting the trim at the top of the walls white might help break it up a bit. Too bad she refuses to go with white for the cabinet.

 

[Zanne]

I got a newer version of sketchup to test out on my laptop. Seems to be working well. Don't have the files from my old computer transferred over yet though so I will have to wait (copying files to external drive right now). I re-made the whole bathroom in a less sloppy fashion. I remembered to group things this time. I added some little touches like softsoap dispenser, towel bar (not the right size or design), towel rack (also not quite right), magazine rack, waste bin, wall-mount soap dish (representing the one that holds toothbrushes). Found the right shower model but could not find the right double curved rod so settled for a single. I made a rough sketch of the 70" tall cabinet but didn't bother to do the raised panel detail on the doors. It's where we keep the tp, wet wipes, bandaids, antibiotic cream, hydrogen peroxide, etc.

I lacked the mental fortitude to remake the side shelves. I took sloppy notes & had trouble remembering what they referenced the first time I made the shelves. LOL. I'll import them once I get my files transferred.

But for now, this is my WIP.

I plugged in the exact rgb colors from the wall, countertop, and vanity colors in the Paint sketch but the walls look darker and more green for some reason.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Personally I've always felt like those "one piece" (even though they are generally multiple pieces) fiberglass tub surrounds or shower surrounds felt really cheap and cheesy--not a look or feel I was ever enamored with.

Something to consider is using that same kind of shower base you show to fit your opening, and then using solid surface wall materials; these are considerably thicker than fiberglass, and provide a much more solid feel to the overall shower experience. There are a number of manufacturers of these, you have to look.

In the upper midwest, Menard's always had a display of a few (and a catalog of more of them). Many hotels when they do a room renovation, will remove the old, real tile and replace with a solid surface product.

 

[Zanne]

I don't like tile and solid surface is too expensive. We already have the wall surrounds. At least it looks better than the old glue-up stuff. And it will be a vast improvement over the avocado green thing. The Sterling units actually feel pretty sturdy.

Amazon had the formica on sale so we ordered it. Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to trim edges. I know they suggest leaving a little extra in case it doesn't get aligned properly when putting it on.

I'll need to properly prepare the old formica (unless I can peel it off) to be covered. I want to remove the whole countertop and take it to the workshop so I'm thinking of tacking paint sticks on two edges to act as a stop for two uncut edges (after confirming said edges are square/straight) so there is less waste and making sure I have it lined up before putting it down. I'll do the dowel thing where you put dowels under the laminate before pushing it down.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Nothing is cheap.

When I removed a fiberglass surround around a tub last year, I ripped it off. Literally--ripped it. Like cardboard. Made the disposal very easy. Ripped it by hand into smaller pieces and in the dumpster it went. Was a builder's special from the 1970s...

Laminate bit on a trimmer router is the easiest way to finish formica edges.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’m about to rip out a heavy duty aquaglass brand shower with built in ceiling.

thick fiberglass with wood reinforcement I’m not looking forward to it.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

One word, @Twowaxhack "Sawzall".

 

[Twowaxhack]

 

[Zanne]

Is there a specific term for the router bit? Or is there a special router?

LOL. Sledgehammer and sawzall for that fiberglass unit!

We're going to have to cut up mom's shower unit before we remove it. But I have to quarantine for 10 days now bc my friend's gf's family are jerks. Stood directly behind me in line at the pharmacy less than 2ft away and yabbered away at me when they knew they had Covid.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Search for “flush cut laminate router bit”. You probably want 1/4” shank. Choose one with a pilot bearing. Expect to pay about $15. PRACTICE on scrap before you do the real thing. Bits are sold at all home centers, hardware stores, Amazon, woodworking stores, and most places that have router bits.

While you can use any router, including a full-size one, you’re best off using a small version called a trimmer router. These are much smaller and much easier to handle and can get into tighter places. All the tool manufacturers such as Bosch, Dewalt etc. make both full-sized and trimmer sized routers. They are generally in the $100 price range.

The router will not be able to get into an inside corner when trimming the laminate top. For that you need to do it by hand using a fine file.

I believe some of the tool manufacturers make specific routers set up to do laminate trimming. 25 to 30 years ago nearly every kitchen counter was done in Formica, with only a few custom homes using Corian. Today Corian has all but disappeared, Formica is rarely used, and natural stone and synthetic stone products are used on the bulk of new construction as well as renovations.

 

[sawsaw]

Search for “flush cut laminate router bit”. You probably want 1/4” shank. Choose one with a pilot bearing. Expect to pay about $15. PRACTICE on scrap before you do the real thing. Bits are sold at all home centers, hardware stores, Amazon, woodworking stores, and most places that have router bits.

While you can use any router, including a full-size one, you’re best off using a small version called a trimmer router. These are much smaller and much easier to handle and can get into tighter places. All the tool manufacturers such as Bosch, Dewalt etc. make both full-sized and trimmer sized routers. They are generally in the $100 price range.

The router will not be able to get into an inside corner when trimming the laminate top. For that you need to do it by hand using a fine file.

I believe some of the tool manufacturers make specific routers set up to do laminate trimming. 25 to 30 years ago nearly every kitchen counter was done in Formica, with only a few custom homes using Corian. Today Corian has all but disappeared, Formica is rarely used, and natural stone and synthetic stone products are used on the bulk of new construction as well as renovations.

You can pick up cheap trimmer routers at Harbor Freight. If you plan to use them only occasionally, fits the bill.
I bought one of theirs and haven't had any trouble with. I think it cost under $20...

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

While everyone was sleeping, in case you didn't know, Harbor Freight did away with their perpetual coupons. Now only select items go "on sale" and or have coupons, as opposed to their 20% off coupons which were everywhere to the point where they became almost silly.

The product from HF that fits the bill here is now $30, not available online (in store only from the time I looked at it) and is branded DrillMaster. 1/2 HP 1/4 in. Trim Router

FWIW I once had their $15 Chicago Electric model. Wasn't worth much--so I ended up buying a Bosch for some serious work. Perhaps this DrillMaster is twice as good as the Chicago Electric at twice the price!

 

[Zanne]

Thanks guys! This is very helpful! I have some sort of membership with Harbor Freight (if it hasn't expired yet). I need to see if they have that trimmer router in stock. Boo, Harbor Freight site is down for maintenance.

I won't be installing the laminate in the room. I'll be taking the countertop off to build a box under it to raise it up. I'll take the countertop down to the workshop where there is more space and better ventilation. Formica's video suggested using 3M's 90 contact cement spray. Someone suggested using a water based adhesive, but I don't think that's good for a bathroom/wet area. I was told that the flush trim pilot bits that are not ball bearing ones can burn the edge of the formica if you're not careful. So, I'm trying to find some ball bearing ones.

 

[sawguy]

At the cabinet shop I worked at years ago, we didn't have the ball bearing bits. They would clog up with glue. We used non ball bearing bits and sprayed the laminate edge with PAM cooking spray to prevent burning.

 

[Zanne]

Ok, I wonder if they have non-flavored spray I can use. I'll have to do curbside pickup if I order it-- unless I wait until after quarantine. Having Omicron symptoms after being exposed on Monday.