Removing Dip tube- Cant removes as threads seem stuck...

[homeby5]

Its a 58" dip tube with a 4inch coupling that screws in. Trying to unscrew and change but threads are stuck. Afraid I may break off. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[MicEd69]

I assume you are talking about a water heater dip tube. What brand is it? What model? Pictures?

 

[homeby5]

 

[homeby5]

I assume you are talking about a water heater dip tube. What brand is it? What model? Pictures?

It's a whirlpool electric whirlpool. See pic above. Thanks

 

[MicEd69]

I meant a picture of the nipple. I assume you are changing out the dip tube because it is broken. Those nipples are often hard to remove. What size pipe wrench are you using? The tank should be full of water, and you need either a larger pipe wrench, or a cheater (a piece of pipe) on your pipe wrench.

 

[sarg]

"They" also suggest inserting a 5/8" carriage bolt into the nipple to avoid it collapsing. ( Same as removing anode when it's part of the hot water outlet )

http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

 

[homeby5]

I meant a picture of the nipple. I assume you are changing out the dip tube because it is broken. Those nipples are often hard to remove. What size pipe wrench are you using? The tank should be full of water, and you need either a larger pipe wrench, or a cheater (a piece of pipe) on your pipe wrench.

I'm changing it because my HW runs out real fast. Cant fill a standard tub anymore. I assume the DT is cracked as its about 9 years old. Heating elements seem test good and HW is hot for a little bit.
You should be able to see nipple on the new DT. Its a 4" coupling. You can see the top of the existing nipple where the water line screws onto it.
I hadn't cranked a pipe wrench yet. Just tried it with channel locks. I wanted to ask you guys first because if I brake it off, I will need a new WH.
Thanks

 

[homeby5]

"They" also suggest inserting a 5/8" carriage bolt into the nipple to avoid it collapsing. ( Same as removing anode when it's part of the hot water outlet )

http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Thanks. good idea.

 

[Ludington]

I'm changing it because my HW runs out real fast. Cant fill a standard tub anymore. I assume the DT is cracked as its about 9 years old. Heating elements seem test good and HW is hot for a little bit.
You should be able to see nipple on the new DT. Its a 4" coupling. You can see the top of the existing nipple where the water line screws onto it.
I hadn't cranked a pipe wrench yet. Just tried it with channel locks. I wanted to ask you guys first because if I brake it off, I will need a new WH.
Thanks

Sounds more like the bottom element is not turning on.

 

[homeby5]

Sounds more like the bottom element is not turning on.

Hmmmm...I checked voltage and changed element even though it measured good resistance?

 

[Ludington]

You should turn the heater on and see if you have voltage on the bottom element, it should turn on first, and then the top. If the bottom isn't working and only the top, your only going to get a few gallons of hot water. It could be your bottom thermostat is bad.

 

[sarg]

Just a suggestion ............ drain the tank ..... remove the bottom element and inspect what is actually the situation. You can inspect the dip tube .. the anode and wet vac any sediment all from the bottom element hole. I would replace the elements while the tank is empty ....... We do it every six months.

 

[MicEd69]

You will not be able to remove that nipple with a pair of channel locks. You must use a pipe wrench.

But as others have said, that might not be your problem. But since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely.

I live where the water quality is pretty good, and I don't drain my tank or change the anode. My gas water heaters last 15-20 years and as new technology and improvements continue to occur, I would rather have a new one every 15-20 years than nurse along an older unit. But if you have poorer water, mineral buildup on the elements can make them very poor heaters of water, even if they test out good for resistance. And if you do have poor water quality, draining the tank to remove mineral buildup, and servicing the elements may be required. And other electrical components do fail, like the thermostat.

Good luck.

 

[homeby5]

Just a suggestion ............ drain the tank ..... remove the bottom element and inspect what is actually the situation. You can inspect the dip tube .. the anode and wet vac any sediment all from the bottom element hole. I would replace the elements while the tank is empty ....... We do it every six months.

I did all that instead of looking in tank for dip tube. I didn't know what one was until after.
But all sediment is gone now.
Thanks

 

[homeby5]

You should turn the heater on and see if you have voltage on the bottom element, it should turn on first, and then the top. If the bottom isn't working and only the top, your only going to get a few gallons of hot water. It could be your bottom thermostat is bad.

Will double check. Thanks again

 

[homeby5]

You will not be able to remove that nipple with a pair of channel locks. You must use a pipe wrench.

But as others have said, that might not be your problem. But since you have the new nipple/dip tube assembly, you might as well see if that is your problem before you drain the tank. If you remove the old dip tube nipple and find the dip tube missing, problem solved. But you don't need to look for any cracks as your issue would only be if the dip tube had broken off completely.

I live where the water quality is pretty good, and I don't drain my tank or change the anode. My gas water heaters last 15-20 years and as new technology and improvements continue to occur, I would rather have a new one every 15-20 years than nurse along an older unit. But if you have poorer water, mineral buildup on the elements can make them very poor heaters of water, even if they test out good for resistance. And if you do have poor water quality, draining the tank to remove mineral buildup, and servicing the elements may be required. And other electrical components do fail, like the thermostat.

Good luck.

Thanks. Will crank on it with pipe wrench and see.

 

[GReynolds929]

You should turn the heater on and see if you have voltage on the bottom element, it should turn on first, and then the top. If the bottom isn't working and only the top, your only going to get a few gallons of hot water. It could be your bottom thermostat is bad.

Actually it's the other way around, on a cold tank upper tstat heats until satisfied and then lower tstat fires. On a hot tank the lower will fire first and get the most usage as the dip tube directs the cold water to the bottom. Another fun fact if the bottom element or tstat fries you'll still have half a tank of hot water, if the top element or tstat fries you'll have no hot water, even if the bottom is still good.

 

[homeby5]

At the risk of sidetracking, just thinking out loud...why not have the cold water inlet in bottom of HW heaters? Why not design them that way?

 

[Ludington]

Actually it's the other way around, on a cold tank upper tstat heats until satisfied and then lower tstat fires. On a hot tank the lower will fire first and get the most usage as the dip tube directs the cold water to the bottom. Another fun fact if the bottom element or tstat fries you'll still have half a tank of hot water, if the top element or tstat fries you'll have no hot water, even if the bottom is still good.

Was under the assumption that he was getting some hot, which would seem to say top is firing but bottom is not. And yes, if hecdrains all hot out, the top should fire, then the bottom to complete... still seems like a bottom element or thermostat...
But that's just my logic.
Also surprised you found parts for that whirlpool. I have one (24 years old) but they don't build them or make parts.
Did you check the ohms on the elements ? Take the wires off first then check, should be 10-20 ohms (roughly)

 

[homeby5]

Was under the assumption that he was getting some hot, which would seem to say top is firing but bottom is not. And yes, if hecdrains all hot out, the top should fire, then the bottom to complete... still seems like a bottom element or thermostat...
But that's just my logic.
Also surprised you found parts for that whirlpool. I have one (24 years old) but they don't build them or make parts.
Did you check the ohms on the elements ? Take the wires off first then check, should be 10-20 ohms (roughly)

Yes...I even installed another element on bottom even though the ohms were spot on.