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Toilets in Bed Bath & Beyond need some CLR. Every single one was like this. 1671494239222.png
 
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Hub broke off and stack was in the customer's foundation. Could not access. Did not put a cleanout next to stack as I should have. Only because I was afraid someone using a cable might not be cautious enough being that close.
 
I posted that toilet pic on Twitter and tagged the Bed Bath & Beyond account. They apologized to me. LOL. I personally found it funny.

dmmsr, when you have to cut through brick and leave a hole, do you fill the gaps in with concrete or do you leave it? It looks like it was filled in, but was that done by you or someone else? I ask bc one of the local plumbers cut a hole in someone's wall and knocked out the brick and just left it uncovered. Is that normal?
 
I posted that toilet pic on Twitter and tagged the Bed Bath & Beyond account. They apologized to me. LOL. I personally found it funny.

dmmsr, when you have to cut through brick and leave a hole, do you fill the gaps in with concrete or do you leave it? It looks like it was filled in, but was that done by you or someone else? I ask bc one of the local plumbers cut a hole in someone's wall and knocked out the brick and just left it uncovered. Is that normal?
That's great!

What you see is exactly how it was when I arrived. The open part of the brick was the wall and the bottom of the wye was in the foundation. Any which way I tried I could not cut properly and install a wye. I even bought a no hub cast wye to try and fit in there. But without busting their foundation and possibly breaking more pipe in the process I came up with using a no hub rubber gasket to fill in some of the gapping. I tried oakum but there was not enough to the fitting to get any in there. I tried an extra heavy gasket and it was basically falling out. Just the rubber and some hydraulic cement. And I just left it the way it was when I showed up.
 
Long story short, I was trying to turn a shutoff that has a broken piece on the handle but it was jammed & then I lost my balance and fell on the pipes and they all broke apart. It broke off just below the tee that goes between the jet pump, pressure tank, and main water out of the pressure tank. The pipe that goes to the main water for the house broke off below the ground so I will have to dig it out. Need to find a way to suck dirt that fell into it out.
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There were some old broken off pipes in that mess too.

Very rough sketch of old layout. Not really 3d bc I suck at doing the angles. But it had the tee before it went to the pressure tank.
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All 3 things after shutoffs go into the ground but the one I showed going into ground is the one that goes to the house.
 
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Thanks. I appreciate the thought. Friend said he's going to come out and help when he gets someone to watch the kids. Hopefully soon.
I tried digging the water pipe up with limited success, there's a concrete block under the ground near it and I had to break a tree root nearby. Not much space to work with. How do you guys deal with dirt falling in a vertical water supply pipe while it is cut off? Friend said he'd bring an extension cord to warm stuff up in there if possible and I figured I can use my wet/dry shopvac to get at least some of the mud out of the pipe.
 
Ended up not using the vacuum bc we (and I mean my friend) had to dig up a cinderblock and get to the horizontal run of the pipe underground because it was busted so badly on the vertical run. Plus, I knew it would be easier to keep dirt from falling into a horizontal pipe.
While I was at my friend's house the cartridge in the shower trim got worse. Water was spraying EVERYWHERE. Into the wall he built for the side of the shower, out the side of the shower, etc. I grabbed the shower curtain & blocked the water to prevent more from getting on the floor. He removed the access panel as quickly as possible to shut it off and when he took the cartridge out it fell into pieces.
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I'm hoping it will be covered under Delta's warranty but if not I can buy a new one. I gave him mine (from some trim I haven't installed yet). He popped the new one in quickly and it works.
I'm trying to decide on a good day to go over for a shower (or even a soak in the tub).
 
We visited some relatives over the holidays and their ancient toilet was making this noise. It does this until the tank is refilled, and stops eventually. Also looks like the refill tube should direct water into the overflow pipe but maybe they deliberately did it this way so I didn't touch anything. I told them I'm fairly certain the fill valve needs to be replaced, and maybe the flapper too if there are 'ghost' flushes. They're on a fixed budget so they don't care. They're elderly so the noise doesn't bother them lol.

The toilet is probably original to the house built in the 70's. Lovely teal color matching the shower tiles and floor trim. The toilet says "Standard" exactly like that even with the quotation marks. Flush performance isn't great as you can imagine (my family member who clogs my newish AS Cadet3 toilet regularly is forbidden from using it) but surprisingly hasn't gotten that much worse over the decades I've been visiting. I guess they'll replace it only if it starts leaking around the wax seal.
 

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Yes the refill tube gets clipped onto and directed into the flushvalve.

Needs a new flapper.

I’d replace the fill valve.
 
It's entirely possible the fill valve might need to be taken apart and cleaned. I thought mine needed to be replaced but I cleaned the sediment out and it worked better.

This is my temporary setup with the water. More fittings and some PEX will be added later to run to the outside water.
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The plan is to add a tee to that horizontal run and go to PEX for the outside stuff. Might be able to salvage the shutoffs bc I might have enough pipe for some couplings/adapters on there. Although, I should probably just replace them with newer/better ones that turn more easily. Those ones take a lot of force to turn.
 

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You need to replace all of that with pex and stainless steel fittings and valves.

It’ll last 20 yrs or more and be very freeze break resistant.
 
Can I use PEX between the jet pump and pressure tank? I'm concerned it might not deal with the pressure well. Plus I have a hard time finding shorter lengths of 1" PEX.

I have galvanized steel coming out of the top of my jet pump. I want to replace it with stainless steel, but I can't take anything apart without the cistern draining & I need the guy who works on wells and pumps to remove the fitting from inside the cistern and change it out to something else. The guy put a check valve between the cistern and the jet pump (inlet side of the pump) and has the pipe going above the jet pump. I want to raise the pump higher, turn the stainless steel fittings so they are level with or below the pump (and not leaking). But the guy no longer returns my calls so I don't know if he's ill, went out of business, or what.
 
A friend posted this picture of her laundry room prior to renovation. I'm seeing all sorts of bad things. No proper standpipe with P-trap. No GFCI outlet. It just looks ugly. Her "after" photo just shows that the walls & door are painted and there's new floor. Can't see the plumbing behind it.
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My repaired hose bib: Please excuse the garbage all around. I need to get a wheelbarrow and grabber arm and go pick stuff up. Those tall weeds in the back are dried up dog fennel. This was before I added tape to seal up the openings.
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Sun poked out from behind the clouds for a few minutes. That shutoff turns easily so that is a bonus. I might try to make a cover for it at some point to protect it. I'm considering sticking some of the old insulation over it just to protect it from the sun and it can be removed if I need to turn the switch.
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Current setup inside the pump house: I really need to clean up the garbage/scrap pipes in there. In the dark, my friend thought the one pipe in the upper left was going underground and I had to tell him it was just a remnant that had been cut off from previous repair. I'll have to go back in with some insulation later on and wrap the pipes.
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A friend posted this picture of her laundry room prior to renovation. I'm seeing all sorts of bad things. No proper standpipe with P-trap. No GFCI outlet. It just looks ugly. Her "after" photo just shows that the walls & door are painted and there's new floor. Can't see the plumbing behind it.
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My bathrooms have GFCI protected lines but the GFCI breakers for two of the three bathrooms are are fed off the GFCI in the third bathroom. Is that the best of ideas? Who knows but it did pass inspection.

Good on the pump house!
 
A friend posted this picture of her laundry room prior to renovation. I'm seeing all sorts of bad things. No proper standpipe with P-trap. No GFCI outlet. It just looks ugly. Her "after" photo just shows that the walls & door are painted and there's new floor. Can't see the plumbing behind it.

Wow that is some creative drywalling!
 
My bathrooms have GFCI protected lines but the GFCI breakers for two of the three bathrooms are are fed off the GFCI in the third bathroom. Is that the best of ideas? Who knows but it did pass inspection.
That’s exactly the way things are wired these days in new construction. One 20A circuit feeds a GFCI outlet in ONE bathroom, and all outlets in all bathrooms now feed off of that. Pretty darn stupid idea, thanks for noticing!

Now imagine you have guests in for the weekend. In one bathroom you have a 1200 watt curling iron being used. In another bathroom the same warming up with a 1000 watt hair dryer being used. And in the third? Doesn’t matter! You’ve got 3,200 watts being used on a single circuit designed for 2,400. Why? To save the $20 for an outlet and a few bucks for wire.

I’ve inspected a lot of new construction homes around here at varying price points. All the same.

And parts quality? In my own home built in 2019, I’ve already had a defective AFCI breaker and a defective GFCI outlet.
 
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