Pump pressure changing.

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So far I have had one problem and it was a guy on my Forum who hooked one up to a nasty well that hadn't been used in a long time. It totally plugged up the screen in the valve with rust flakes. Plus he was coming off a submersible pump with 1/2" piping. The valve was 1". Then he wanted to use several hose bibbs which were also 1/2" at the same time. Anyhow, he complained so I called Matt Barrett and he said to have him send it back and he would send him a new one; which he did. After pumping the well off and upgrading the pipe size, it now works as far as I know.

We have sold 200 plus of these valves since hooking up with Barrett so one valve complaint is hardly a big deal.

Thats good to hear, I will check it out. I am trying to compare yours with Valvemans and see the difference.
 
200 total valves aren’t enough to even have a good sampling. I will send out 200 valves for just today. The one speedbump is talking about I replaced with an original Cycle Stop Valve that doesn’t have a drilled hole to clog up, which is why he hasn’t heard back from him. I have replaced at least 5 more that I know of. They usually call me for advice and don’t tell me they have one of my competitors valve. Which is because the other companies are just copying and haven’t got a clue how they work.

No it is not a good thing that others are copying my patents. The US patent system is as screwed up as all the other government run organizations.

I was trying to help the OP. I wasn’t being ugly. I was just defending myself against false accusations. I wasn’t the one who said, “lighten up” and linked to as ugly and false of a report as he could find (or manufacture).
 
If you are selling 200 a day and he is selling 200 in two years doesn't that speak for itself?
 
OK now back to the reason I started this thread, to fix my cycling problem. My pump is a Goulds JRS5. Here are a couple pics of my set up. Where should I strt? What should the tank pressure be at? and do I just fill it like a tire? Pics coming soon.
 
Here are the pics. I will be working most of tomorrow but will have a chance to work on it in the evening.

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The gauge sits at 0 until the pump kicks on then it gets up to about 10 PSI while it is pumping and immediately drops to 0 once the pump shuts off? When I turn on my water upstairs I have pressure so i am confused.
 
I can't say that I've ever seen a gauge that is upside down before.

I can't see where your tank is in relation to the pump and gauge. It sounds like the tank is on the opposite side of a check valve.

It looks like your suction line comes in either 1" or 1-1/4", then gets smaller before going to the pump. Why?
 
Main water tank is outside buried. Small bladder tank thing is after the pump. It does reduce right before the pump from one inch to 3/4. Then there is a what looks like a brass check valve right before the pump.
 
The pressure tank is probably shot. Bet it weighs 50 pounds when you take it off. (full of water, waterlogged). The tank was too small to start with unless you have a CSV.
 
speedbump said:
Look at the photo below.

Should there be another small tank like that? The only other tank I have is the 2100 gallon tank outside.
 
Valveman said:
The pressure tank is probably shot. Bet it weighs 50 pounds when you take it off. (full of water, waterlogged). The tank was too small to start with unless you have a CSV.

How can I tell or test it? I don't want to just assume it is bad.
 
I misunderstood you. I thought you meant you have two bladder tanks.

You really should have a bigger tank on that 1/2hp. A 42 gallon equivalent would be fine. The physical size is 16" X 28.8" and it holds around 6 gallons. With that little football size tank will cycle your pump too much.

As for the zero pressure etc. It sounds like the gauge is bad. A new one might remedy that problem.
 
I have a couple gauges in my truck so i will toss one of them on. If my tank test good is there a way to get it to work better until I get a larger one. In the next year we are going to do a room addition and be changing where all this stuff sits so i don't want to sink to much money into it now just to pull it out and start over.
 
After you turn off the pump and replace the gauge, check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. You want it two pounds less than your pressure switches cut in pressure. Don't turn the pump back on until you check the tank. If you add a bigger tank now, it can be moved when you add the new room.

To keep the pump from cycling too much with the small tank, set the pressure switch up to about 5 lbs under it's maximum pressure. You can check max pressure by holding down on the plate that the two springs push on in the pressure switch. Just let the pump run until it stops building pressure. If you set the switch up, you need to re-do the tank to two pounds less than cut in.
 
How do I find cut in pressure. I got the new gauge on butt am searching for a tire gauge. Hopefully I don't have to run to town.
 
Watch the new gauge and run some water. When the pump turns on, that's you cut in pressure. Cut out is when it turns off.

How far is town?
 
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