Problem with Hot Water Circulator Pump

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Or better yet, instead of Installing a motorized valve, install a heat trap on the hot water supply out of the water heater. Basically a upside down p-trap made of the water piping that you have. I would pipe back down and then back up to the fixtures

My post about the motorized valve was
offtopic.gif
and has again caused confusion... :eek:

The valve must be a one way backflow preventer on the closed loop system I showed. It prevents reverse flow from the WH through the pump and back into the system.

I asked about the motorized valve as I am trying to design a gravity fed system for myself with the WH on a timer and that valve preventing circulation while the WH is either totally or partially shutdown.

I apologize to the board...
 
OP here. I have a 2 story house with no basement and a slab foundation in Las Vegas so typical west coast style suburban house construction. I am honestly not sure if the pipes go through the foundation, or if they are all run in the space between the first and second floor and pulled down through the walls for all the first floor feeds.

I have looked for a check valve and can't find one - either a crossover valve if it is the retrofit kit, or a single small check valve on either side of the pump. I agree a failed check valve seems like a likely culprit based on what I have read, and I am going to have my wife look for one when she gets back into town since maybe I am just not seeing it somehow.

I am fairly confident (I think) that I don't have a leak because the symptoms go away when I close the ball valve that is located right next to the circulator pump.

The reverse P trap sounds like a good idea that would possibly solve my problem. My water heater output is currently a 2 foot long piece of flexible copper (or whatever it actually is made of - looks like copper) pipe. I could replace it with a longer piece and bend it into a sort of S shape, or if it's not that flexible create an S shape out of 3 flexible pieces and a couple 90 or 180 degree junctions.

So basically, my plan now is:

1. Look for a check valve that I have somehow missed finding, and replace it
2. If we still can't find a check valve, rig the output of the water heater into an S shape
3. If none of those work then oh well, I'll have a ~$200 bigger gas bill a year. I'm not sure it's worth it to get too crazy trying to solve this.
 
OP here. I have a 2 story house with no basement and a slab foundation in Las Vegas so typical west coast style suburban house construction. I am honestly not sure if the pipes go through the foundation, or if they are all run in the space between the first and second floor and pulled down through the walls for all the first floor feeds.

I have looked for a check valve and can't find one - either a crossover valve if it is the retrofit kit, or a single small check valve on either side of the pump. I agree a failed check valve seems like a likely culprit based on what I have read, and I am going to have my wife look for one when she gets back into town since maybe I am just not seeing it somehow.

I am fairly confident (I think) that I don't have a leak because the symptoms go away when I close the ball valve that is located right next to the circulator pump.

The reverse P trap sounds like a good idea that would possibly solve my problem. My water heater output is currently a 2 foot long piece of flexible copper (or whatever it actually is made of - looks like copper) pipe. I could replace it with a longer piece and bend it into a sort of S shape, or if it's not that flexible create an S shape out of 3 flexible pieces and a couple 90 or 180 degree junctions.

So basically, my plan now is:

1. Look for a check valve that I have somehow missed finding, and replace it
2. If we still can't find a check valve, rig the output of the water heater into an S shape
3. If none of those work then oh well, I'll have a ~$200 bigger gas bill a year. I'm not sure it's worth it to get too crazy trying to solve this.

3/4 in. IPS Brass Swing Check Valve - EZ-FLO Model # 20423LF

@HOME DEPOT

9b46817b-042f-415f-898f-fdc807aae2b6_1000.jpg
 
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Ok, Kultulz, since you are telling the OP what to buy.

why dont you tell the class where he can use the swing check valve and where he can not.

If he cant use it, what can he use and why

:eek:

...uh...oh...

Being called to the head of the class again...
action-smiley-073.gif


I am not telling the OP what to buy but what he is looking for in general. The valve can either be swing or spring, the swing being more prone to failure resulting from tank sediment and/or calcium fouling, correct?

I am also not qualified to determine what you are asking as I am not a licensed plumber.

I was only trying to help the OP identify the problem with his recirculation system.
 
:eek:

...uh...oh...

Being called to the head of the class again...
action-smiley-073.gif


I am not telling the OP what to buy but what he is looking for in general. The valve can either be swing or spring, the swing being more prone to failure resulting from tank sediment and/or calcium fouling, correct?

I am also not qualified to determine what you are asking as I am not a licensed plumber.

I was only trying to help the OP identify the problem with his recirculation system.

107172015.GIF

oh...come on!! its common since. you could figure it out if you had thought it thru.

swing ck. works only in the horizontal/level position. uses gravity to operate



spring ck. can be used in any position. uses a spring
 
View attachment 10368

oh...come on!! its common since. you could figure it out if you had thought it thru.

swing ck. works only in the horizontal/level position. uses gravity to operate

spring ck. can be used in any position. uses a spring

:eek:

Actually, I did not know that but thought I had made a serious misstep and broke one of the dark rules in that supreme code book you kept hitting me with...

You got me... :D
 

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