Plumbing question on shared-gravity fed-artesian well that I can't see to get help with since no one has ever seen this before

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StapleIma

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I need some plumbing/well advice for a situation that I’m pretty sure no one has seen before. Sorry this is long, but thank you for reading an trying to help.

I’ve contacted a few plumbers and well companies and once I describe it, they say they won’t touch it.

I purchased a property with a shared artisan gravity feed well system. The well is on my property and was installed in 1955. It is a 2.5 inch well pipe. The water flows out the top and does a 180 into a pipe that goes back into the ground (see photo). Another 70 year old pipe (as far as we know) goes downhill to the last house on the system and into the basement where it flows and fills a 150 gallon tank that is hooked to a jet pump and supplies water to the house. When the tank is full a flapper closes the valve that dumps the gravity feed water into the tank. The water then backs up in the pipe to the next house towards the well and the same thing happens. Finally, if both lower house tanks are full, it will fill the tank in my basement which is 30 feet from the well. If at anytime the houses downhill need water (tank level drops due to house pump kicking on), their valve opens and the water flows down and tops off their tank.

The system used to provide water to 5 houses this way, but two have drilled wells and gone off the system.

There is no overflow to the well. What I expect happens is when no one is using water the water backs up into the pipe until it air locks and stops the flow at the well head. Then as soon as one house needs water, the tank valve opens and the gravity start feeding the water in the pipe to the tank. (There is a AAV that breaks the air lock to allow flow when the water level drops but more on that later).

This has worked fine for 70 years until the other day when our house (nearest to the well, but last to fill) ran out of water. This makes sense that it would run out first. I measured and the water was coming in at only 1 gallon per 8 minutes. It was just a trickle. While we never measured before everyone knows it was not that slow.

When I moved in the previous owner told me that the other previous owns told her to never mess with this sideways 1.5 inch air admittance valve as that’s key to the system.

With no plumber willing to touch it, as they didn’t want to knock 3 houses out of water, I went ahead and unscrewed it. There was a clear air suck sound when I did that and I could see the water flowing down through the pipe (and it was much more than 1 gallon every 8 minutes).

I sorta cleaned the valve and screwed it back in and checked and the flow had increased to 1 gallon every 3 minutes, a huge improvement. Obviously something was wrong with this and I suspect it was not allowing air into the system. Normally if I put my ear up to it when the system is running I can hear a trickle of water.

So I figured this 20+ year old AAV was tired and got a new one. I screwed it in and within a few hours I was back to my trickle. I took it out and compared it to the new one by using a scientific method I call “sucking on the back of it” to see how hard it was to get air through it. The old one allowed air much easier than the new one. I put the old one back in and things returned to the 1 gallon per 3 minutes and I could hear the trickle again.

I suspect the new one was just too stiff and it requires too much negative pressure to allow air in. The well doesn’t generate enough to allow enough air in for gravity to take over and it slows the flow. I also suspect this old one might have been modified so the spring is not as stiff and lets air in more easily, that is just a gut feeling with how it was taped up.

From what I have discovered I need an open value at the head, that allows air to flow in to get behind the falling water so it can flow as fast as it can via gravity. However it needs to close from the water pressure when all tanks are full and the water backs up into the well head to create the air lock that stops the flow up from the aquifer.

Options

1) Keep using this 20 year old modified AAV and hope it was just a fluke that the rubber check diaphragm dried up or something and didn’t allow air in.

2) Try and take apart a new AAV and release the tension on spring so it open at a much lower pressure and use it the same way? Do they make adjustable press AAVs? Should I put an elbow in and mount the AAV vertically? I am also in CNY where is freezes so I don’t want to separate this two far from the never frozen artisan water that flows through system.

3) OR (here is where I am hoping someone knows of something) is there some other 1.5” NPT (or compatible) type valve I can use that when the system is flowing and filling a tank provides full airflow to get behind that water so it can fall and let gravity do its thing, yet when the water backs up, that water will close the value?

There are a number of different check valves and I am just not familiar with them to know which one would be best (if this would work at all). And if you have a link to the product that would be even more helpful.

I don’t need a 4th option of drilling a new well, I’m aware of that option. I would like to try and make this system continue to work.
 

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It doesn't make sense to me that you would want air in the system at all. Seems like air would cause a loss of siphon. Siphon will help draw more water from the well. I would try without the AAV, and make sure the Fernco and old gate valve handle do not leak air into the system as that would also break the siphon effect.
 
It doesn't make sense to me that you would want air in the system at all. Seems like air would cause a loss of siphon. Siphon will help draw more water from the well. I would try without the AAV, and make sure the Fernco and old gate valve handle do not leak air into the system as that would also break the siphon effect.
Think of it as rather than an artisan well providing the water what if it was a big tank out there feeding that pipe on the right that does to our basement tanks. That tank would need to have a vent on top so the water would flow down the pipe or else it would be like a straw with your finger on top.

Now imagine that tank is long and skinny and is actually the pipe that goes into the ground. That is where the water that flows into our basement tanks comes from (this long skinny tank is just getting filled up all the time by an artisan well). So I need air behind this so the water will fall. But it is not a huge pipe and not falling far so it doesn't create a ton of negative pressure to open a AAV. So I need a valve that is always open (or opens very easily) so this water can fall. When all the tanks are full in the basements and water backs up I need it to close so the water doesn't come out the head.

I might have to get an AAV or check valve but I want something that opens as easily as it possibly can. How can I get a super easy to open and let air in valve?
 
That tank would need to have a vent on top so the water would flow down the pipe
So, each tank is a closed system with the only vent being the "AAV" at the well head? A much better engineered system would be for each tank to have a vent. The supply pipe would be pressurized by the artesian well and the closed valves at each tank. Then when water was needed at any of the houses along the supply pipe, the valves at those tanks would open and allow water to flow from the well. It is great that it has worked well for 70 years, but it is not the best engineered system for supplying water to those houses, IMHO.
 
That is not how it should work. The pipe going downhill should "siphon" water out of the well. Any air would break the siphon and water will stop flowing. I really believe the problem is from an air leak at the Fernco or something, as the spring in the AAV should keep it from allowing air to enter at all.
 
So, each tank is a closed system with the only vent being the "AAV" at the well head? A much better engineered system would be for each tank to have a vent. The supply pipe would be pressurized by the artesian well and the closed valves at each tank. Then when water was needed at any of the houses along the supply pipe, the valves at those tanks would open and allow water to flow from the well. It is great that it has worked well for 70 years, but it is not the best engineered system for supplying water to those houses, IMHO.
So I agree it could certainly have been done better in lots of ways, but this is what we are dealing with for now...

Water flows to the path of least resistance even up from the ground (and no one has any idea how deep the well is).
As I have seen, if I stop air from entering in from this spot on the start of the downward slope of the supply pipe it stops the flow to just about nothing. There are a number of shared artesian wells in the village where the well does pressurize and supplies water directly to the houses (no pressure tank at all), but this well does not have the pressure to do that. Besides I would worry about putting to much pressure on these old pipes. I do have a pressure gage at my tank and when all the tanks are full and water is just backing up in the well it is only 1.5 PSI from the weight of the water up the pipe.

The basement tanks do not need a vent as they are just open, the pipe comes in with a simple float valve that the water trickles out of. It will only go as fast as gravity will push it down the old pipe, but to do that the well needs some atmospheric pressure. I would imagine this was set up this way as the flow was not strong enough to pressurize a system for 5 houses and the force of gravity was more so they went with this gravity feeding house tank solutions.

I have been told that their are low pressure check valves that might work good for this situation. It still requires some pressure to crack but hopefully less than a typically AAV. The more I look at this old AAV the more I think someone modified the spring in it to be less resistant. It opens easier and allows air to offset the space of the water that is running out of the system and then when nothing is running out the water in the pipe backing up seals it up.
 
OK, now I'm totally confused. First you said, "That tank (each tank in the houses served) would need to have a vent on top so the water would flow down the pipe..." Now you say, "The basement tanks do not need a vent as they are just open..."

And you say, "I would worry about putting too much pressure on these old pipes." But you are already pressurizing those "old pipes" to whatever the pressure the artesian well supplies. And realize 1 psi will result for every 2.3 feet of elevation drop from the well.

If the system is as you have described, if water is being called for at any house, then closing off the AAV will have no effect in the flow. The water in the supply line will siphon the water out of the well at the rate the well will supply.

Maybe some pictures of the tanks and the elevations of the various tanks and well would help me understanding the system.
 
Artesian wells are under positive pressure and do not need vent. If it has enough pressure to bring water to the surface and dump say 1 GPM directly on the ground, it will do less GPM in a pipe with air pushing back at it, and more GPM in a pipe using a siphon to reduce the pressure at the well head.

Looks like someone wrapped that first elbow trying to prevent a suction leak, They were on the right track, but there are several more places to lose the vacuum. I would replace all threaded fittings and put an AAR (Auto Air Relief) at the highest point. You can draw more water from the well if that 1.5 PSI positive pressure down at your tank is changed to a 1.5 PSI suction. Sealing any air leaks and releasing the air that accumulates in the high spot will let gravity (siphon) work for you instead of against you.

Otherwise just put a tee at the top with the high side open to let out enough air that some water can flow down the pipe the same way it would an open trough.
 
OK, now I'm totally confused. First you said, "That tank (each tank in the houses served) would need to have a vent on top so the water would flow down the pipe..." Now you say, "The basement tanks do not need a vent as they are just open..."

And you say, "I would worry about putting too much pressure on these old pipes." But you are already pressurizing those "old pipes" to whatever the pressure the artesian well supplies. And realize 1 psi will result for every 2.3 feet of elevation drop from the well.

If the system is as you have described, if water is being called for at any house, then closing off the AAV will have no effect in the flow. The water in the supply line will siphon the water out of the well at the rate the well will supply.

Maybe some pictures of the tanks and the elevations of the various tanks and well would help me understanding the system.
Thanks for your help. I do really appreciate it.

Sorry I was not clear. When I said "That tank would need to have a vent on top so the water would flow down the pipe..." I was referring to the hypothetical "tank" that the pipe really is serving as when the water flows over the top of the well.
At this point the well system is over and is no different than if I had a tank sitting on top of that pipe that feeds everything by gravity. If I did have this "tank" it would need a vent to get water to flow down so getting water to flow down this pipe is no different.

Good point about the pressure. I just checked and all tanks are full so well flow is stopped and my gage reads 2.5 psi. I would guess this is about 5 feet below grade so that seems reasonable.

I think the difference between this well and others I have seen set up around here is this well has no overflow. I have a feeling that 180 turn is set up so that when the water backs up it creates and airlock to stop the well from flowing. Then in order to get it to unlock when someone's tank valve opens it needs to allow some air in the system for the water to fall down the pipe and the well to start flowing again.

I will work on some photos and maybe even a video of it flowing. Its an educated guess that is how it works based on the fact if I take that AAV out water fills the pipe and then flows out the hole, and when the well is running I can hear water flowing sounds through the AAV if I put my ear on it and when they are all stopped I do not.

I also agree that if there was no air allowed in the system at all it should also work. However for some reason it was not set up that way. So far everything I have found in this house that was done a certain way that didn't seem right I realized ended up being correct for some crazy reason. The previous owner was told by the owner before that (who lived there for decades) that this AAV was the key to the whole system working and not to touch it.
I wonder if the well sometimes has air pockets that sometimes come up and that is why they had to set it up this way with this AAV and air lock method, or if the pressure would be too great if there wasn't some air in their to slow it down (like I said the well down the street spits out 75 gallons a minute)? I'm just guessing, but changing it from this gravity feed system to a well pressure system seems like it could mess it all up. These old timers usually did things a certain way for a good reason.

I think at this point I want to have a working backup value for this old AAV that could fail at any moment again or could last another 20 years. Whatever that may be (Vacuum release valve, modified AAV valve, low DFU AAV valve, low pressure check valve) I'm just not sure.
 
Artesian wells are under positive pressure and do not need vent. If it has enough pressure to bring water to the surface and dump say 1 GPM directly on the ground, it will do less GPM in a pipe with air pushing back at it, and more GPM in a pipe using a siphon to reduce the pressure at the well head.

Looks like someone wrapped that first elbow trying to prevent a suction leak, They were on the right track, but there are several more places to lose the vacuum. I would replace all threaded fittings and put an AAR (Auto Air Relief) at the highest point. You can draw more water from the well if that 1.5 PSI positive pressure down at your tank is changed to a 1.5 PSI suction. Sealing any air leaks and releasing the air that accumulates in the high spot will let gravity (siphon) work for you instead of against you.

Otherwise just put a tee at the top with the high side open to let out enough air that some water can flow down the pipe the same way it would an open trough.
Thank you I appreciate this. Say I made the change and put a AAR at the highest point so in theory all air would be out of the system. Then all 3 tanks are full and the float valves are closed. What would happen? The artisan would keep flowing and building up pressure I presume till at some point the well can't overcome it? Anyway to measure what sort of pressure that would be? Maybe I can see if that old gate valve will close and put a gauge on the AAV opening. My only concern would be the 70 year old iron pipes with most likely rusted fittings are still flowing water right now with no leaks that we know if. I would not trust them with much more pressure. Or are you saying that with the air lock it already is stopping the well so the pressure would be exactly the same if it is water pushing on it or having the air and water pushing on it?
 
As I said in my earlier reply, "you are already pressurizing those "old pipes" to whatever the pressure the artesian well supplies." The AAV allows air to enter the pipe, but it does not let air out. So, when all tanks are full, and the inlet valves are closed, the pressure in those "old pipes" is at the artesian well pressure. The well is not flowing, and there may be air in the pipe, but the pressure inside the pipe is at the artesian well's pressure.

And as Valveman implied, you could just install a tee with a vertical pipe higher than what the well can overcome. If the well has a static pressure of 2.5 psi, a vertical pipe about 6 feet long will not overflow at normal conditions. When there was no flow, the eater would raise up about 5 feet 10 inches and stop. Of course, you will have a pipe open to the atmosphere, so dust, dirt, and bugs can get in it. That would be the purpose of the AAR that Valveman suggested.
 
As was said the well will only build another pound or two if you shut it off. My guess is it worked all those years until it developed a suction leak large enough to stop the siphon. Tighten the Fernco and the nut on the gate valve stem.
 
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