oakumboakum
Active Member
The 20 year old Kenmore water heater I installed back in 1997 developed a leak so I thought it was time to buy a new one. I checked Lowe's and Home Depot Online for a 40 gallon water heater and found the selection limited. I found a Rheem 40 gallon tall and a Rheem 38 gallon short at Home Depot. The 40 gallon was about $800 and the 38 gallon was about $560.
I ordered the 38 gallon water heater and the next day I rented a van to pick it up. I had to wait and watch while the Home Depot employees tried to get it down from the shelf. It took them 45 minutes to get it down and on a cart. The guy who brought it to the van lifted it off the cart and put it in the van. The water heater weighs 130 lbs but he was able to lift it all by himself.
Once I got the water heater home, I began buying the parts I needed to install it. I bought the copper fittings, straps, etc. I had to shorten the exhaust pipes from the water heater to the flue for the new water heater. The contractor who installed the new furnace back in 2008 used a 3" x 24" and a 3" x 72 " for the horizontal run. I had to remove the 3" x 24" and replace it with a 3" x 18" one. All these pipes were Selkirk but I ordered an Ameri-Vent from Amazon. I was dismayed when I found the Ameri-Vent wouldn't fit into the Selkirk pipes. I then discovered that these type B double wall vent pipes are manufacturer specific. My mistake cost me a 2 week delay.
I bought the correct Selkirk pipe from a local supply house and installed it. Since the water heater was no longer connected to the exhaust system, I turned off the gas. I heated water to wash the dishes, wash my hands, etc.
The next day, Friday, I removed the pipe connecting an elbow to the draft hood. I leveled the 24" metal stand and placed a 24" diameter pan on it. The 2 movers I hired arrived and they lifted the water heater and placed it on the pan. I tried to center the new draft hood under the elbow and called it a day. It was almost noon and time for lunch so I elected to go to Lowe's Saturday morning and buy a new draft hood pipe and a 60" gas flex line.
I got to Lowe's 6:15 am shortly after they opened and picked up the draft hood pipe and gas flex line. I installed the new draft hood pipe and lowered it onto the draft hood. It fit perfectly. I normally wait until 9 am before I begin working on the house but my next door neighbor was leaving as I got home.
It was time to connect the water heater to the house plumbing. The new water heater is higher than the old one so I had to cut the hot and cold copper pipes. I shut off the main water supply at the ball valve and cut the cold water pipe above the water shut off ball valve. I try to reuse existing copper pipe and fittings if possible so I unsoldered the ball valve, 90 degree elbow, and 3/4" x 3/4" mip adapter.
This decision turned out to be a mistake. It took time and gas to separate the fittings and remove the solder that was still left inside. However, I was able to resolder the adapter to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the 90 degree elbow to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the ball valve to this pipe, and the other end of the ball valve into the existing vertical 3/4" pipe. I connected the copper flex line to the cold inlet of the water heater and to the adapter.
I turned on the main water supply and checked for any leaks at the top of the ball valve. The solder connection was good, no leaks. I slowly turned on the cold water to the water heater and checked for leaks. There were none. I turned off the water to the water heater.
Here is where I screwed up. I cut the hot supply pipes at 2 places and simply resoldered one shortened pipe into the elbow. I just had to solder an existing couple into the existing vertical pipe. I next turned on the water to the water heater and allowed it to fill. At the last connection I soldered, I saw a leak. I turned off the water and waited for the water pressure to diminish. As soon as the leak stopped and there was no water coming out of the hot water outlet, I tried resoldering the leaking connection. Now there was a fine spray when I turned the water back on.
I gave up and ate lunch. At 1 pm, I went back and cut out the entire hot water pipes from the vertical pipe to the water heater outlet. I grabbed a new 18" length of 1/2" copper pipe, a new elbow, a new couple, a new 1/2" x 3/4" mip adapter, and a new copper 3/4" fip x 3/4" fip flex line. All of which I bought weeks earlier. I measured, cut the new pipes, and soldered them. I turned on the water and the cold water supply is watertight as is the hot water supply.
The last thing I had to do was connect the flex gas supply line. I did that and checked for leaks with soap bubbles. Seeing none, I turned on the pilot and saw the orange glow.
I cleaned up the garage and checked the hot water after an hour. The water was too hot so I had to change the setting. The old water heater still provided plenty of hot water but it was leaking.
This project taught me a lesson. I won't unsolder and reuse any old copper fittings and pipes ever again.
Here are some pictures I took.
I ordered the 38 gallon water heater and the next day I rented a van to pick it up. I had to wait and watch while the Home Depot employees tried to get it down from the shelf. It took them 45 minutes to get it down and on a cart. The guy who brought it to the van lifted it off the cart and put it in the van. The water heater weighs 130 lbs but he was able to lift it all by himself.
Once I got the water heater home, I began buying the parts I needed to install it. I bought the copper fittings, straps, etc. I had to shorten the exhaust pipes from the water heater to the flue for the new water heater. The contractor who installed the new furnace back in 2008 used a 3" x 24" and a 3" x 72 " for the horizontal run. I had to remove the 3" x 24" and replace it with a 3" x 18" one. All these pipes were Selkirk but I ordered an Ameri-Vent from Amazon. I was dismayed when I found the Ameri-Vent wouldn't fit into the Selkirk pipes. I then discovered that these type B double wall vent pipes are manufacturer specific. My mistake cost me a 2 week delay.
I bought the correct Selkirk pipe from a local supply house and installed it. Since the water heater was no longer connected to the exhaust system, I turned off the gas. I heated water to wash the dishes, wash my hands, etc.
The next day, Friday, I removed the pipe connecting an elbow to the draft hood. I leveled the 24" metal stand and placed a 24" diameter pan on it. The 2 movers I hired arrived and they lifted the water heater and placed it on the pan. I tried to center the new draft hood under the elbow and called it a day. It was almost noon and time for lunch so I elected to go to Lowe's Saturday morning and buy a new draft hood pipe and a 60" gas flex line.
I got to Lowe's 6:15 am shortly after they opened and picked up the draft hood pipe and gas flex line. I installed the new draft hood pipe and lowered it onto the draft hood. It fit perfectly. I normally wait until 9 am before I begin working on the house but my next door neighbor was leaving as I got home.
It was time to connect the water heater to the house plumbing. The new water heater is higher than the old one so I had to cut the hot and cold copper pipes. I shut off the main water supply at the ball valve and cut the cold water pipe above the water shut off ball valve. I try to reuse existing copper pipe and fittings if possible so I unsoldered the ball valve, 90 degree elbow, and 3/4" x 3/4" mip adapter.
This decision turned out to be a mistake. It took time and gas to separate the fittings and remove the solder that was still left inside. However, I was able to resolder the adapter to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the 90 degree elbow to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the ball valve to this pipe, and the other end of the ball valve into the existing vertical 3/4" pipe. I connected the copper flex line to the cold inlet of the water heater and to the adapter.
I turned on the main water supply and checked for any leaks at the top of the ball valve. The solder connection was good, no leaks. I slowly turned on the cold water to the water heater and checked for leaks. There were none. I turned off the water to the water heater.
Here is where I screwed up. I cut the hot supply pipes at 2 places and simply resoldered one shortened pipe into the elbow. I just had to solder an existing couple into the existing vertical pipe. I next turned on the water to the water heater and allowed it to fill. At the last connection I soldered, I saw a leak. I turned off the water and waited for the water pressure to diminish. As soon as the leak stopped and there was no water coming out of the hot water outlet, I tried resoldering the leaking connection. Now there was a fine spray when I turned the water back on.
I gave up and ate lunch. At 1 pm, I went back and cut out the entire hot water pipes from the vertical pipe to the water heater outlet. I grabbed a new 18" length of 1/2" copper pipe, a new elbow, a new couple, a new 1/2" x 3/4" mip adapter, and a new copper 3/4" fip x 3/4" fip flex line. All of which I bought weeks earlier. I measured, cut the new pipes, and soldered them. I turned on the water and the cold water supply is watertight as is the hot water supply.
The last thing I had to do was connect the flex gas supply line. I did that and checked for leaks with soap bubbles. Seeing none, I turned on the pilot and saw the orange glow.
I cleaned up the garage and checked the hot water after an hour. The water was too hot so I had to change the setting. The old water heater still provided plenty of hot water but it was leaking.
This project taught me a lesson. I won't unsolder and reuse any old copper fittings and pipes ever again.
Here are some pictures I took.
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