How does it work?

[wpns]

So the blue housing is the cartridge filter, the silver one is the "R/O", and the black tank is the calcite? Doesn't look like the RO units I'm used to (for desal), but do you have any details on it? Shouldn't calcite come after the RO instead of after the cistern?

Personally I'd test the water, but probably just use the well pump to keep the cistern full (or run the irrigation system *) and use a https://tripleo.com/ ozone system in the cistern, that'll sterilize the water and get rid of the sulfur smell, then use the cartridge filter on the output of the pressure tank for the house. Extra points for using CSV as per Valveman for consistent water pressure.

(*) Not sure what pump you have in the well, but if it doesn't produce too much pressure for the irrigation system when running, then you don't need a pressure tank or any controls except the logical OR function to run when the irrigation system _or_ the cistern is calling for water. In that case, _I_ would roll my own, but another pressure. tank and switch would solve that and be conceptually simpler for future maintenance.

 

[scrantch]

Thank you your seeing correctly. The calcite is after the cistern and goes to the home after that. The only difference I guess is the water in the cistern is not treated with the calcite. I agree with testing the water and then I may need nothing but the sediment filter, ( which stays pretty clean anyway). There is an aerator nozzle in the line that fills the cistern, that does work well for the sulfur smell. So depending on the water test, may not need an ozone system. There are no markings on the RO unit, all SS and just strapped to the wall with Tapkons. 1/2" hose going in from the sediment filter and same type of hose going into the cistern, both from the top. And the waste water comes out to the bottom, and into the woods.
And Valveman is correct, these flow switches are ridiculous.
I have only owned the place since 4/1/23 so I was expecting the installer to at least take care of the problem, and if he shows up I will ask him to add the pk1a kit or whatever he normally uses when people complain about the variable pressure at the fixtures. I don't expect him to upgrade what I originally had for free, but at least get it back to working under warranty. But I have to take a shower whether I ruin the pump or not. As you know it's hot and humid here!!!

 

[Valveman]

I agree with wpns. You could just use the pump start relay in the irrigation controller to turn on the pump when the sprinklers need it, and a float switch in the cistern to turn it on/off as the cistern needs water. Just don't need to run wires to the pump if using a pressure tank/pressure switch/CSV, like in the PK1A. But with the PK1A you could also run water to the house directly from the well when/if needed.
There are also ways to aerate the water IN the well like with the Sulfur Eliminator. Doing that and adding a little under the sink type RO just for the drinking water maybe all that is needed. It would be nice to be able to eliminate the cistern with the extra booster pump and controls if possible. Then one of the PK1A kits would solve all your problems instead of just half of them.

 

[scrantch]

The installer came today, put a pressure gauge on the outdoor hose spigot, and said there was nothing wrong with the pressure or flow to the house. I couldn't disagree. The lower pressure at the fixtures is tolerable, you just can't fill a tub quite as fast. probably better for the fixtures. But something did change, I just don't understand what controls the cut-off pressure on those flow valves while they have a cut-on adjustment.
And he did agree that that is the cheapest and fastest way do do it with an RO system, and could switch to a pressure tank if I wanted him to. He gave me a couple sediment elements and left.
He also said he wouldn't mount it to the wall, it would sit on the slab.

 

[scrantch]

I figured out how to adjust the cut off pressure on these booster controls. A screw in the back of the unit turns part of the housing CW to increase the off pressure. Goes from 50 to 90 PSI. It wasn't loose so I still don't know how my pressure changed but i'll leave it alone until something fails then start from scratch. The pump in the cistern costs $440, so what ever fails won't hurt too bad.