Help me fix this frost proof hose valve

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geoffhazel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
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Location
Seatle, WA
House is 40 years old. Frost-prooof hose valve is broken, won't totally shut off, needs to be replaced. There's a plastic piece on the end that's cracked. How it's laid out is like this:

So we have the incoming water line below, into an ell headed up to a 1" x 1/2" x 1" galvanized tee.about a foot higher, where the f/p valve comes into the 1/2" side. Out the top of the tee is a short 3" section into another ell that heads away to the house.

The frost proof valve is about 12" long, and appears to connect via female threads to the close fitting that is threaded into the tee.

What's got me puzzled about how to proceed is that the close fitting is super rusty. Rust ALL OVER, and some of it flaking off. I get the impression that if I was to mess with it to any degree it would just fall apart.
It appears that the frost proof valve is threaded onto it b/c I can see some teflon tape sticking out of the edge of the threads. The f/p valve has threads on the outside too.



I'm thinking I could try to unscrew the f/p valve, but if that little rusty part goes into dust, what am I gonna do then?

One thought I had was to cut the f/p valve and try to connect directly to the housing with a shorter one -- it LOOKS somewhat like 1/2" copper pipe -- but if the size isn't perfect, I can't sweat or use a shark-bite fitting on it.

I also thought about cutting the 1" line above and below the tee, trying to unthread the pipes above and below, and then put in new pipes with union(s) as needed to replace the tee and all other parts with new. Hopefully those other pipes will unscrew. They aren't the least bit rusty (on the outsides, anyway).

What would you recommend for a repair procedure?
 
Try to unthread it, if it breaks make sure you have an inside pipe wrench and/or easy out handy. If all else fails cut out the tee and use the same size nipples only make them left right nipples.
 
Hyper48fan, thanks for the nudge. As it turns out, the faucet wasn't tight on the nipple at all, and unscrewed very easily. The nipple itself was rusty and had lost one or two threads at the bottom, but had plenty of meat left on it. I added a di-electric union to it prior to connecting the new faucet that hopefully will keep the nipple lasting longer.
 
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