Gas dryer shutoff value

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Ann Thomas

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Hi All,

I am new to this forum. I need to install a new shut off valve on the wall gas connection for dryer. I recently ordered a gas dryer from HD and service folks refused to install the dryer without the shutoff valve. Please see the picture of my gas pipe on the wall. Can anyone please let me know the shutoff valve that i need? Is this a simple install and will i be able to do it?

Ann
 

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You will need to remove the existing brass fitting from the black iron pipe.

Then install a tee, with one leg down and one up. A four inch nipple with a cap goes down to act as a sediment trap. And, a short nipple, the gas valve, another nipple, and the brass fitting go on the up leg. Everything needs to be black iron pipe, or brass. All the threaded joints will need either joint compound, or yellow Teflon tape. Yellow Teflon tape is gas rated, the pink, and white aren’t.

If you have a good hardware store they will be able to line you out with the right parts.

Now the questions: Since there is no valve currently existing, where is the line shut off now, and is it even active.

Secondly, does your locality allow homeowners to install new gas piping? Not all do.
 
I have never seen a sediment trap for a gas clothes dryer (or range). I don't see the need for a trap.
 
You need a trap. It’s called a moisture trap around Tennessee. Our code requires 6” moisture trap. And yes , you want the moisture/sediment drip leg. And an accessible valve. Do as fish man said. 2 wrenches. 1 is just to hold the pipe coming thru wall. Don’t let it turn loose even a millimeter of a millimeter. If it does turn backwards ? Take off and repack threads. Do not overtighten thinking it will be (...BOOM! Your dead) ok. No take backs with gas.
 
Ann Thomas said:
Hi All,

I am new to this forum. I need to install a new shut off valve on the wall gas connection for dryer. I recently ordered a gas dryer from HD and service folks refused to install the dryer without the shutoff valve. Please see the picture of my gas pipe on the wall. Can anyone please let me know the shutoff valve that i need? Is this a simple install and will i be able to do it?

Ann
Click to expand...
Ann - you can definitely do it, especially if HD is doing the install of the dryer.

All you need to know is the size of that black pipe coming out of the wall. It looks like 3/4" to me, but it is hard to tell. If you are not sure, remove the brass fitting on the end, and take it with you to HD. Buy a 3/4" gas shutoff valve (assuming it is 3/4" pipe), some pipe dope or yellow Teflon tape, and a 3/4" plug (male threads that will screw into one end of the gas valve).

Start by wrapping the yellow tape 2 or 3 turns around the threads of the existing black pipe (you could also brush on pipe dope instead of using yellow Teflon tape), screw the valve onto that black pipe tightly. Put yellow tape or pipe dope around the threads of the male plug, and screw that into the valve. Once gas is turned on, get some liquid dish soap and a little water, and drip it onto each joint. Look for EXPANDING bubbles. If you see any, tighten that joint. If not, you should be fine.

When HD comes to do the install, they should be taking care of the tee with nipples, drip leg, etc.
 
Ann, this is gas and can be very dangerous if you do not know what you are doing. Have you ever wrapped threads with Teflon tape
before? Have you used pipe wrenches before? If your not sure what valve to put on and if it is an easy install or not I suggest calling a plumber
and getting the job done correctly and safely. Just my opinion.
 
fixitron said:
I have never seen a sediment trap for a gas clothes dryer (or range). I don't see the need for a trap.
Click to expand...

It has been in the International series of codes, (IRC, IBC, and IFGC), since at least the 2009 releases, which were in place, when I first had to pass the inspector exams.

The purpose is to capture any rust flakes, or bits of Teflon tape before they hit the internals of the device, and potentially jamb a valve or regulator. Which could lead to excess pressure, or a valve that doesn’t fully close. Both of which can cause potentially explosive issues.

And, I screwed up. Best practice is to have the tee, and sediment trap after the valve, so you can remove the cap on the trap to check for sediment.
 
I am referring to NFPA 54, National Fuel Gas Code. For condensate traps- Section 7.6- "PROVIDE DRIPS WHERE NECESSARY- For other than dry gas conditions, a drip shall be provided at any point in the line of pipe where condensate could collect." It then has another requirement if the AHJ requires one at the outlet of the meter. A condensate trap would not necessarily be installed just before an appliance, such as if it were coming up from the floor. A sediment trap traps sediment, which can come from any orientation of the gas line. A sediment trap configuration could be different from a condensate trap. The sediment trap is used to trap small particles of rust and other contaminants from entering the small orifices found in some appliances. Sect. 9.6.7- "SEDIMENT TRAP- Where a sediment trap is not incorporated as a part of the appliance, a sediment trap shall be installed downstream of the appliance shutoff valve as close to the inlet of the appliance as practical ..................... Illuminating appliances, ranges, clothes dryers, decorative appliances for installation in vented fireplaces, gas fireplaces, and outdoor grills shall not be required to be so equipped."

Codes and code enforcement do vary from one area to another.
 
Not that I'm very familiar with the various fittings used on natural gas but when I saw the picture I thought it could have been a hose and fitting as with LP gas. ???
Or is that fitting just to connect to a typical flexible gas hose?

Ann Thomas...do you know whether you have natural gas or propane gas?
 
This Thread is getting much more complicated than it should be simply make sure the gas is off unscrew the fitting that is currently on the pipe get some pipe dope dope up the pipe and screw in a gas valve on the pipe..... done
 
Thanks for all your responses. I have to admit that I am a bit motivated after seeing your replies.

I think i have a 3/4 inch pipe after measuring the circumference. I am going to get the below items from HD and install it by myself. I hope HD guys will do the rest. Wish me good luck :) I will post the result after the work is complete.

1. https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-4-in-FIP-x-3-4-in-FIP-Gas-Ball-Valve-PSBV503-12/100111340
2. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-260-in-Yellow-PTFE-Tape-31403D/202078116
 
1E4F7BEC-90C5-4EA3-B72A-F58ED420D5FC.png I’ve never seen 3/4” stubbed to a dryer. Get a 1/2”x3/8” valve also just in case. That’s the most common size in my area.
 
Ann Thomas said:
Thanks for all your responses. I have to admit that I am a bit motivated after seeing your replies.

I think i have a 3/4 inch pipe after measuring the circumference. I am going to get the below items from HD and install it by myself. I hope HD guys will do the rest. Wish me good luck :) I will post the result after the work is complete.

1. https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-4-in-FIP-x-3-4-in-FIP-Gas-Ball-Valve-PSBV503-12/100111340
2. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-260-in-Yellow-PTFE-Tape-31403D/202078116
Click to expand...
Just as a check... what was the approx. measurement for the circumference of the pipe?
Was it closer to 2.6"(about 2 5/8") or 3.3"(about 3 1/4")? The reason I ask is it can be misleading. 1/2" pipe has an outside dia of 0.84"(2.6" circ.) while a 3/4" has an outside dia of about 1" (3 1/4" circ.).
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-OD-Flare-x-1-2-in-FIP-Gas-Ball-Valve-PSSD-41/100132413
Diehard said:
Just as a check... what was the approx. measurement for the circumference of the pipe?
Was it closer to 2.6"(about 2 5/8") or 3.3"(about 3 1/4")? The reason I ask is it can be misleading. 1/2" pipe has an outside dia of 0.84"(2.6" circ.) while a 3/4" has an outside dia of about 1" (3 1/4" circ.).
Click to expand...

Thanks. You are right. I measured it incorrectly. I bought 2 -3 valves today. 1/2 inch is the correct one
 
I thought sediment traps were only allowed on a bend and that the sediment trap had to follow the flow (tee off the pipe, with the sediment continuing going forward and the pipe branching off continuing the gas flow). I also tried with pipe dope and it just wouldn't seal for me lol. I laid some teflon in and haven't had a problem with any leaks since. I always keep 2 threads back when using teflon though.
 
Around here , they are called dirt legs .

This is a very simple DIY project . What ever tools you do not have , I check out Harbor Freight . At my age it is unlikely I will wear them out .

Wyr
God bless
 
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