Dresser Coupling - thoughts and opinions please

[BobN]

I have a situation where I need to cut a galvanized water pipe in order to install a new shutoff valve.

The pipe is between the inside meter and the original inside shutoff valve - the existing shutoff valve is ancient, the house was built in 1926 - and is attached to the lead supply pipe with a very short piece of pipe. The short piece of pipe and the supply line are joined with a wiped joint.

The photo at the end shows the shutoff valve and the wiped joint.

I just don't want to even think of trying to open the fitting at the bottom of the valve for fear of damaging the wiped joint. There's not much room to work with and if the wiped joint is damaged it would be difficult to repair (provided I could find someone who could do so).

My thought is, provided that the original shutoff valve can be closed and not leak, I'd like to simply leave it open and use a new shutoff valve to shut off water to the house.

The pipe that needs to be cut is quite close to the wall and can't be treaded - no room.

I've read a little about dresser couplings which could be used to connect a new piecer of pipe to the cut, un-threaded end of the pipe.

I've seen two types of dresser couplings -

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/atta...ld-galvanized-pipe-compression-20coupling.gif

http://henryhparis.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Style_40_Long_Coupling.jpg

What are the general opinions on using a dresser coupling and how widely accepted are the couplings by local ordinances?

I've read that, if you are going to use a dresser coupling, the pipe must be clean and without an pits - that might be a deal breaker here as the pipe has been wet (meter leaking) for perhaps 3 weeks - no one was home.

This is related to my post at http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11832

There is always the option - not one I want to really consider yet - of replacing the lead supply pipe.

Bob

 

[journeyman]

You should replace line galvanize pipe starts to close up over time and probably not the best to be drinking from. The pipe might rip apart if you try to re thread it. I am sure most guys on this sight will agree

 

[BobN]

You should replace line galvanize pipe starts to close up over time and probably not the best to be drinking from. The pipe might rip apart if you try to re thread it. I am sure most guys on this sight will agree

Yes, I'm aware of the narrowing of galvanized pipe, I'm replacing sections throughout the house, with copper, as I have time to do so. It goes without saying that copper is superior to galvanized pipe, at least as regards ease of use and longevity without corrosion.

As to potability of water from galvanized pipes, I've never read/heard of any problems.

The main issue with galvanized pipes corroding is the narrowing of the inside diameter, thus restricting water flow, over time.

If you were to survey houses in this area, you'd find that the vast majority of them are over 70 years old - ours is 91 years old (built in 1926) - and have galvanized pipe through out, unless sections have been replaced as other work was done.

I doubt you'd find many houses where the iron has been totally replaced with copper - too expensive for most people.

As for the pipe ripping apart if an attempt is made to re-thread it - as I said in my post:

"The pipe that needs to be cut is quite close to the wall and can't be treaded - no room."

My original posting was about the use of dresser couplings to join the cut ends and, as I just quoted, the pipe is too close to the wall to thread it.

The threading equipment I have has handles that are at least 12" long. There is maybe one and a half inches between the pipe and the wall in my situation.

I've never come across a threading tool that would be able to thread a pipe 1 1/2" from a wall.

Also, given the strength of galvanized iron pipe and the force necessary to thread it, I've never heard of anyone threading it without having the pipe securely held in a pipe vise - I have one which is mounted to a heavy workbench.

I would think that threading a piece of pipe in place would be a very dicey thing - I'd don't think you could hold it securely without a vise and a vise is out of the picture for a pipe in place. I think an attempt to thread a pipe in place would result in damage to a joint or such.

If a dresser coupler is a viable choice in my situation, I would expect to use a short nipple, threaded on one end only, to attach to a dielectric joint, allowing the installation of copper the rest of the way to the meter.

I thank you for your reply but everything you said was already known to me - except for your comment about safety of water from corroded galvanized pipe.

In fact, I just spent about 15 minutes using Google to search for information about such problems and I found nothing.

While it is expected to find information regarding the problems with flow and pressure which occur as galvanized pipe corrodes , I have never seen any discussion of the potability problems of water from corroded galvanized pipe.

If there was a danger from corroded galvanized pipe, you would expect to find a great deal of information about on a large number of websites - but you don't.

The only issue I've ever seen discussed regarding galvanized pipe is the reduction in inner diameter as it corrodes - and the fact that with enough time, a galvanized pipe can develop small holes, but that is fairly uncommon.

If you have the address of a website discussing potability issues with corroded galvanized pipe, please post it so I can read it.

Bob

 

[havasu]

I've tried the galvanized dresser once and it failed miserably because the outside wall must be perfectly smooth, with no imperfections, and mine was not.

 

[BobN]

I've tried the galvanized dresser once and it failed miserably because the outside wall must be perfectly smooth, with no imperfections, and mine was not.

Thanks for the reply.

I've read that and in my case the pipe is not going to be smooth with out imperfections.

I seem to have only two options:

1 - Replace the inside shutoff. But that means breaking free some joints that are rusted and haven't been messed with probably since the house was built in 1926. I'm afraid that the wiped lead joint will be damaged beyond repair or that I'll not be able to find someone who could repair it if were repairable.

2 - Replace the supply pipe and install a new inside shutoff as part of the replacement. Problem with this is cost - I've seen estimates up to $5000. Less if you are able to pull the old pipe out while pulling the new pipe attached to it.

Bob

 

[havasu]

Are you on a well or city water? If city water, are you referring to a new water line from the street to the house?

 

[Chris]

I didn't read all the replies but if you go with a smith Blair or romac brand you should be ok. You might have to go to a supply house for them. I'm not a huge fan but I have repaired hundreds of city mains and fire mains with these and have never been called back out. Usually if they are going to leak they will immediately.

Clean the pipe the best you can and lube the rubber part real good with pipe lube or soap if you can't find lube