can I go straight into a wye like this?

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The only way to dry vent the toilet per code in a UPC environment is to have the vent within 6 feet of the toilet, and have that vent come off the line vertically of no more than 45 degrees off vertical until you reach at least 6" above the flood rim of the toilet.

So, unless you can install the heel 90 going down the stack and run the dry vent up at no less than a 45-degree angle until you are 6" above the flood rim of the toilet to miss the window, you are in the same predicament you are now.

Does there happen to be a wall between the toilet and the tub where you can run the dry vent vertically up from the drain line and that would be within 6' of the toilet?

If not, you could ask for a variance from your jurisdiction. If this was under the IPC code, your vent for the shower would properly wet vent the toilet, and you wouldn't even need the vent in question. The reason for a dry vent not being flat before it is above the flood rim of the toilet is because it may become blocked when a stoppage happens downstream of the vent. Even that happens here, the toilet will be physically wet vented by the shower vent. As such, I would think that the inspector would allow the dry vent in this case, but that is totally up to them.
well **** I did not think about the other wall where the toilet is... and I am being serious. .. I was so stuck on making that other side right I missed the other wall I can go up. When going vertical on this vent should I use a sweep or a sanitary tee? or the one with a sweep going both ways
 
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well **** I did not think about the other wall where the toilet is... and I am being serious. .. I was so stuck on making that other side right I missed the other wall I can go up. When going vertical on this vent should I use a sweep or a sanitary tee? or the one with a sweep going both ways
Here is what i did. Does it look better there is the double clean out tee and then and another went at the end by the shower.
 

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Outstanding. I too was stuck on making your existing vent location work, even though it wasn't per code. It would have worked, but it would have required a variance.

To use a Sanitary tee on its back for a dry vent or a reducing combo tee/wye like below?

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That all depends on the inspector and his interpretation of the UPC code. The code explicitly says you need a combo fitting when you chance direction of flow for fluids. However, this fitting will only have air in the branch if is a dry vent, so a Sanitary tee on its back is allowed by the strict reading of words of the code. However, the inspector may interpret the code language to say that as the Sanitary tee has water running through the tee, it needs to be a combo fitting even though no fluids are flowing into the horizontal line from the branch.

So, if the layout allows the use of a reducing combo here and you don't want to contact the inspector and ask them which fitting they will allow, you will likely avoid any issues whatsoever by using a reducing combo fitting for the dry vent here.

If the radius of the branch of the combo fitting cause problems with fitting it up the wall, I would call them and see if they would approve a Sanitary tee on its back for a dry vent.

I can't tell for sure, but does this also resolve your floor joist issue? It still needs to be repaired, and I would perform the same repair we discussed before. But because you will not have a hole in the joist, just sistering a 2x12 against the existing joist with glue and 1/2" bolts should be totally adequate.
 
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So do you all think this will work?
I would have loved to use a heel inlet 90 going down on the stack. But right above it is a window.
Is it possible to use a heel inlet 90 and take a 90 from the vertical heel to make it on the other side of the window then go up to vent?
you are misunderstanding the situation.......heel has nothing to do with the stack, only from the connection from the toilet to the sink or in this case the (wet vent).

You should addressed the framing issue before you start this portion. In this case, the rapair to the joist must be made, before the alteration occurs, which is to say that the inspector will likely make you cut out a section of the piping to accomodate repair of the joist.

For someone who does not know what you are doing, the work looks great, but years of experience is what you pay for when hiring a professional.

Are you in NC? If so what county?
 
If this is a cleanout tee, it’s useless. Not enough clearance for a cleanout.
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The angle marked in blue appears to be wrong unless there’s a fitting I can’t see. From what I see it’s not installed correctly. It’s cock-eyed.

If the ceiling is being closed in then the ptrap marked in red is illegal. You can’t put that screw together trap enclosed in a ceiling without access.
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After Twowaxhack's comment and rereading yours, I'm wondering if I misinterpreted the picture. I initially thought the fitting that Twowaxhack circled in red was a Sanitary tee for the toilet vent to meet the UPC code. That was the purpose of my post about Sanitary tee versus a combo fitting.

Or is this a 2-way cleanout fitting that extends up the wall full size such that the cleanout is accessible through a wall access, and is then reduced in size to provide a vent up to the roof? If this is the case, I believe you have solved your issue of providing a UPC approved toilet vent.
 
I am working on the floor joist. I have it up now. And i am going to screw bolts staggered every 6".
And you are right plumbers are great at what they do. I wish given the funds avaiable i would have been able to hire one. But we had a house fire. And insurance did not give much. So being someone that does industrial electric and am able to understand things. Well i took it on. Given its been only 1 week and i have never plumbed anything before.. not tooting my own horn but i have been doing well.
I do how ever have some holes i need to patch/fill. Lol every hole is a bit of learning.
I would say electriacal is so much easier.

As far as the p trap. I ran out of the correct ones so i used this just to see what it was looking like.
And the vent pipe that is cocked. I need a 3x3x2 sweep, but all i had a was a 3x3x3 sweep and had to reduce to see the fit. But with a 3x3x2 sweep it fits in and straightens the vent line
 

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After Twowaxhack's comment and rereading yours, I'm wondering if I misinterpreted the picture. I initially thought the fitting that Twowaxhack circled in red was a Sanitary tee for the toilet vent to meet the UPC code. That was the purpose of my post about Sanitary tee versus a combo fitting.

Or is this a 2-way cleanout fitting that extends up the wall full size such that the cleanout is accessible through a wall access, and is then reduced in size to provide a vent up to the roof? If this is the case, I believe you have solved your issue of providing a UPC approved toilet vent.
And yes i am going to have a clean out coming off the vent that will have to be next to the toilet. Thats why i am using the double cleanout. And i reduced the 3" to a 2" and there is the other 2" on the far left. So for the shower ,tub, and toilet i have 2 2" vents amd i have the cleanout.
 
You can’t use a double cleanout in that location or a sanitary tee.
 
You can’t use a double cleanout in that location or a sanitary tee.
Can you expand on that. I wam thinking about where i can put a cleanout. And that is the only wall i am able to..
Or do you not think i will need one?
 
I think what Twowaxhack is saying is that you cannot use a 2-way cleanout for anything but a clean out, nor can you use a Sanitary tee as a vent there. This goes back to the discussion I posted about the way some inspectors and plumbers read the UPC. I'm not sure why a 2-way cleanout fitting would not be acceptable, but that probably goes back to why some do not think a Sanitary tee is acceptable for a dry vent.

So, what he is say without saying it is that if you CAN use a combo there for the vent. And you CAN add a cleanout in that dry vent line that will be located in your bathroom. The thing is that you will only be able to snake in the downstream direction. But that is most likely where you will be experiencing problems as the only thing coming in from upstream is a tub and a shower.

But if you have access to the vent at the other end where it goes up the wall, you could add a clean out there for the section between the shower and the vent for the toilet. Even if you have to angle the vent up the wall at no more than a 45-degree angle off vertical to get outside the shower wall or a window or whatever, that would be easier than going into the attic or from the roof vent.
 
If this is a cleanout tee, it’s useless. Not enough clearance for a cleanout.
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The angle marked in blue appears to be wrong unless there’s a fitting I can’t see. From what I see it’s not installed correctly. It’s cock-eyed.

If the ceiling is being closed in then the ptrap marked in red is illegal. You can’t put that screw together trap enclosed in a ceiling without access.
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none of that is good
 
If you enter the pipe from a cleanout above and your cable goes down the pipe, which way is your cable going to go when you hit that two way cleanout below. No telling. That’s why you don’t do it. Same with a sanitary tee, the cable can go the wrong way or not go through the tee at all.

It’s piss poor plumbing to quote my Grandfather
 
Ok i took out the double cleanout and am using a sweep. And i changed out the p trap and straightened up that last vent line.
 

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