pasadena_commut
Well-Known Member
The front sprinkler manifold needs to be rebuilt. I am going to reuse the Champion brass valve bodies (1" NPT inlet, 1" NPT union outlet). These were originally fed from 1" galvanized pipe. I am going to replace that manifold with one made of 1" type K copper (because overkill and also what was used on the nearby main water line) with brass adapters to 1" male NPT on top. I know most people would use PVC, but I have seen too many buried PVC pipe breaks on the sprinkler side of these valves to risk that material for the pressurized side, especially since there will be some woody plant roots doing their mischief. Other than the cost and more involved assembly, is there anything intrinsically wrong with this plan? I am a little concerned about galvanic corrosion from whatever rust was left in the soil by the old iron pipes reacting with the new copper. (Or maybe not, as the iron has already turned to rust and won't react the way the original metal would have.)
I still need to dig out the old galvanized and the big ancient bushes that are between the valve location and the ball valve location. before putting this together. I think the old iron pipe was about a foot down, whatever depth it was at, that is what will be used for the new pipe.
For some odd reason the lateral underground line that ran from the main water supply line to the manifold, and the manifold itself, are at a slight angle to the house, something around 5 degrees. The outlet pipes (1 " PVC) are also at this angle. Extend that line and it misses the ball valve by about a foot, and of course the ball valve is parallel to the wall. I was thinking run 1" rigid type K from an elbow straight down from the ball valve, elbow to flexible type K to the manifold (dealing with the odd angle on the way), and then connect the manifold to the flexible pipe. How much bend can one get into 1" type K flexible pipe? Would up to 10 degrees (worst case I think) over about 6 feet be possible? It would also be possible to deal with the angle by having the lateral above or below the pipe in the manifold, and then connect those with two elbows and a short intervening pipe. The flexible pipe seemed like a better solution though.
Thanks.
I still need to dig out the old galvanized and the big ancient bushes that are between the valve location and the ball valve location. before putting this together. I think the old iron pipe was about a foot down, whatever depth it was at, that is what will be used for the new pipe.
For some odd reason the lateral underground line that ran from the main water supply line to the manifold, and the manifold itself, are at a slight angle to the house, something around 5 degrees. The outlet pipes (1 " PVC) are also at this angle. Extend that line and it misses the ball valve by about a foot, and of course the ball valve is parallel to the wall. I was thinking run 1" rigid type K from an elbow straight down from the ball valve, elbow to flexible type K to the manifold (dealing with the odd angle on the way), and then connect the manifold to the flexible pipe. How much bend can one get into 1" type K flexible pipe? Would up to 10 degrees (worst case I think) over about 6 feet be possible? It would also be possible to deal with the angle by having the lateral above or below the pipe in the manifold, and then connect those with two elbows and a short intervening pipe. The flexible pipe seemed like a better solution though.
Thanks.
