Basement interior trench and sump pump - working?

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Gastronomique

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Greetings folks. I moved into an 80-year-old house last fall in MD. Recently with heavy torrential summer rains my basement flooded twice. The signs suggest the water has been entering through a basement window and the basement exterior door. I believe I have remedied these issues temporarily w sandbags and caulk. Since then I haven't had any flooding, but it has only been a couple weeks.
I'm unsure whether the existing sump pump and basement interior drain system are working. Despite the heavy rains, which causes at least an inch of water pooling in my yard near the house, I have never seen the sump pump motor go on. I know the motor works because I tested it and it immediately fires up when I pour water into the sump pump pit. But I wonder if the 4-in perforated corrugated drain pipes that are the water ingress pipes for that pit are clogged. I have examined the pit in the pump during heavy rains, and the water level in the pit never rises and the pump never activates.

Questions:
1) Should the ingress pipes to the sump pump pit be perforated? That seems unusual to me. It's hard to see, but the photo shows the ingress pipes are perforated.
2) Just outside the basement wall near where the sump pump is located, there is a catch basin. I opened it up and cleaned it out and noticed the 4-in corrugated drain pipe feeding out of the catch basin is also perforated, not solid. It is located within 1-2 feet of the house so my guess is it should not be perforated. Is that right? The soil is heavy clay.
3) Can I attempt to snake out the 4" ingress pipes feeding into the sump pump pit in case they are clogged? Or is there a better way to do it? I don't want to damage what seem to be pretty fragile pipes.

I've had some folks tell me that many properly working sump pumps very rarely turn on so it is not a problem that my pump has never turned on by itself to my knowledge. But if there is water pooling in the yard adjacent to the house, shouldn't that water be pulled down through the catch basin into the basement trench and discharged by the sump pump during heavy rain?

I may be misunderstanding how the system works. I'm pretty desperately trying to understand the water issues in my basement and yard so any ideas or suggestions would be helpful. Many thanks in advance.
 

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The pipes should be perforated to allow storm water to enter the sump pit to be pumped out. The perforated line should be surrounded by stones to let water be absorbed and flow into your sump pump. The discharge pipe from your sump pit should flow away from your home, if not the water can seep back into your home. Picture #3.....why is the 1-1/2" disharge line right below the floor? It should be discharged at your highest available spot, preferably in your joist area right below the floor above.
 
The grade around your home should be higher than the elevation around your yard. Why do your have a (square box trench drain)? You are actually drawing water to your home (sump pit). You have a landscaping issue. Do you have gutters on your roof? Does the storm water from your gutters flow away from your home?
 
I'm with @ESTIMATOR on this. From what I can see in pic # 3, it looks like the basement was "professionally" waterproofed - at some point - did they leave a tag or someway to identify who did it? May be worth the service call to have them look it over. The notion that pumps rarely come on is BS. Pic #1 shows (what I think is) the pump discharge dumping into a corrugated pipe that appears to be attached to a downspout? Is that open and clear? I'd also lean towards giving that discharge it's own exit, at least, 10' away from the foundation.

If not, and assuming the waterproofing was done correctly, either the pump is not working, something is clogged or there are major grading issue.

First course of action is to make sure the pump is working. lift up on the float assembly (white ball on the end of the rod attached to the green assembly), the pump should come on - if not replace it. That appears to be a nice pump, cast iron maybe, they are not inexpensive, but last a long time.

Second, (and assuming you have gutters) is to make sure they are clean and not dumping on to the foundation. They should be diverted at least 6' from the foundation. Next make sure there is a negative grade (landscaping) away from the foundation.

If, in fact, the basement was professionally waterproofed, the hard part is done and you really just need to find the piece the isn't working.
 
I am not a area drain pro, but have seen the specs on enough homes to relay what I’ve seen.
For site drainage outdoors, proper method that actually works:
1. Perf pipe perforations must be in the lower half of the pipe. Those corrugated pipes are crap but still can work if you are lucky.
2. The trench should be big enough to accommodate drain rock on the bottom and sides of pipe and the bottom of the drain pipe should be lower than the grade of the basement.
3. Before placing drain rock the entire trench should have filter fabric laid in and up to the top, then rock, pipe and more rock up to grade. Top the rock with the fabric and then a few inches of soil can cover for landscape purposes.
 
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