Well making hissing (air sound) while pump running. Taking very long time to build pressure over 40psi

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catfuzz

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Upstate NY
When my pump is running, the well head makes a hissing sound. Literally sounds like an air compressor is blowing air through and air chuck in there.

It is a drilled well with a submersible pump.

I replaced the pressure switch and gauge for the pressure tank.

I drained the pressure tank and checked PSI and it was 28 (on a 30/50 switch). I moved the tank around a bit when it was empty, and it did sound like there was some water in the bottom still.... but since the PSI was good, I figured blatter must be good?

I am wondering if I should go about replacing the pressure tank (i bought house 7 years ago and do not know when it was put in previously)... or if I should just call the drilling/well company to inspect the well and pump. I can replace the tank my self, so if that is a possibiltiy of solving issue, it would be a saving over having a company come inspect... but it is giving me pause spending 1k on a new tank setup, since mine is holding pressure?

Does anyone think a bad pressure tank could cause hissing at the well head? Or does this point to an issue in the well/pump?

It also seems to take a very long time to build up to pressure. I turned down the cut off to like 40, cause it just seem to keep running and running trying to get up to 50. I woke up this morning when water has not been being used... and its just running trying to get up to 40psi.... with the well blowing like a saxaphone player.

Any advice would be awesome. Long time reader of the forum and have learned a great deal... Finally registered to post.

Thanks,
Josh
 
Sorry for your problem. Sounds like you have a hole in the drop pipe. Removing or gutting the check valve at the tank would confirm this as pressure would drop when pump is off and no one is using water. Probably going to need to pull the pump and replace the pipe. They will try to talk you into a new pump while they are down there. Might not need it. Any water in an empty tank means the tank is bad. But replace it with a PK1A, which will save some money and make everything work better.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick
 
Here are some pics of what I got...
 

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Thanks for the advice!

I was right about to order a normal 32 gallon pressure tank I saw on amazon for just $300....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NWNA84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ENTBEZKGXKVW&psc=1


I will look into this side kick first...
You definitely need to look into the CSV, Cycle Stop Valve Kit. You will have a smaller tank, constant pressure instead of cycling between 30psi and 50psi, reduced start and stopping of your pump which shortens the pump motor's life, and reduced electrical usage over a pump strictly on a pressure switch.
 
You definitely need to look into the CSV, Cycle Stop Valve Kit. You will have a smaller tank, constant pressure instead of cycling between 30psi and 50psi, reduced start and stopping of your pump which shortens the pump motor's life, and reduced electrical usage over a pump strictly on a pr

Are these generally safe to be used on older well/pumps... and without knowing model details of the existing pump?

I am going to ask the well guys coming out today about it too.

Looks smart!
 
It ended up being the 100 PSI pressure relief valve inside the well that went bad and was blowing air through it. They replaced that and through a new cap on it and everything is running like it should!

I still intend to replace the tank and all the fititngs with new brass either way... but they said if the tank is holding PSI, it should be fine to run
 
Glad you got it working. As long as the tank has some air you can get by, but it needs to be fixed. A pressure relief valve should never be inside the well for several reasons. When it pops off you don't know it, and it is your high pressure alarm. Installed in place of one of those hose bibs you would have known there was a problem when you saw water. Circulating water in the well when it does pop off isn't good for the well either. Having the pressure relief valve before the un-needed check valve at the tank is what caused it to fail. The water hammer on pump start that happens to everything prior to that check valve at the tank puts way more than 100 PSI on that part of the system, and with a 40/60 switch it should never see more than 60.

You also cannot replace the tank with a PK1A kit or Cycle Stop Valve because there is a pressure relief down the well. The CSV will make the prv pop off and will not be able to solve the cycling, tank, and water hammer problems or give you strong constant pressure either.

It would have been better to remove and relocate the pressure relief valve.
 
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