Well Issue. Help appreciated!

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tommunation

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Hello!

I have the following situation, and was hoping someone could help me figure things out!

My pump stayed on. I would turn the power off, tap the pressure switch, and it would pop off. Then, that wasn't enough, so I turned down the cut-off and cut-on. Pump cycles on and off. Time goes on, and the problem reappears, more adjusting. During this time I don't know the pressure because the gauge is stuck at 48PSI.

Today I checked the pressure in the tank via the air fill. It's around 35PSI, and when I let the pump go into never-ending cycle mode, it doesn't go higher. I closed the valve to the rest of the house after the tank, drained the tank, and measured the air pressure. Around 32 PSI. I installed a new pressure gauge, same scenario. I lower the cut off to 35 by turning the pressure switch till it clicked, then 2 more turns. Verified results by filling. The cut on, I dunno where that is, but somewhere below 26 which is how low I bled the air in the pressure tank to.

My question is, what's the issue here? I suspect the pump is failing. I had it tested in january and the well company said it was great, 1 million ohms and gpm is just fine. But then again there are the same clowns who didn't point out the pressure gauge was broken and that the sediment filter was set to bypass. Maybe it's not getting enough power? Could it be something else, like a dreaded check valve? And how would I be able to determine?

Thank you kindly for your time!

Tom
 
I assume it is a submersible pump? If so, you may have a leak in the down pipe. Do you have a check valve above ground or by the tank? If so, remove or gut it. Then you can tell if there is a leak down hole.
 
I assume it is a submersible pump? If so, you may have a leak in the down pipe. Do you have a check valve above ground or by the tank? If so, remove or gut it. Then you can tell if there is a leak down hole.
Submersible pump. I can't see a check valve... maybe there's one down in the well?
 

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Check valve is brass looking coupling left of the pressure switch. Remove the check valve guts. Then if pressure drops when no water is being used there is a hole in the drop pipe.
 
Tank precharge should be a few PSI _below_ the cut-IN setting. Not that you don’t have other problems…
 
I don't know if it affects the performance of the system, but screws and stuff on that switch on the tank look corroded. I'd want to replace them, clean off the wires, & put a cover of some sort over that switch. Did you remove the cover to show the guts or was it missing?
 
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