I'm thinking he has something like this. And I used the sensor/crossover terminology wrong. And he never answered where his return line was entering his water heater.
Water Recirculating Pump Tripping Thermostat on Water Heater
- Thread starter TonyN
- Start date
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Yeah I have no clue
. Im dealing with granite installers this morning. They were suppose to be done yesterday and now this morning I pull up to the job and they have three trucks blocking the whole job site up and I’m sitting here waiting on them finish in front of the neighbors house and the neighbors giving me the evil eye and peeking through the blinds. Time is money though and these people don’t mind paying so I guess I really don’t have too much to complain about. I get $2.50 a minute to sit and wait.
TonyN
Member
No, I don't believe it is insulated. I have a condo built in 2020 on a slab with PEX plumbing running through it. As far as I know, there's no insulation on it. As far as a crossover valve, I'm assuming you're talking about the sensor valve that goes between the hot and cold lines under the sink to complete the recirculation loop. I don't know if this could have got plugged up somehow. I do have a water softener, but the cold water feed to the kitchen sink doesn't run through it.
TonyN
Member
There's a timer on the pump, so I only run it during daytime hours. I don't know why it was tripping the thermostat when it hadn't been doing that for three years. Here's what I have: Hot Water Recirculating Systems
So, you have a system like this?
That makes the issue even more perplexing. But as Twowaxhack pointed out, and as you have found out, circulating 140-degree water can be an issue. Can't really explain why it worked for years and then it doesn't. The only thing I could think of would be scaling on various surfaces that somehow finally made the system fail at the high temperatures you are used to.
That makes the issue even more perplexing. But as Twowaxhack pointed out, and as you have found out, circulating 140-degree water can be an issue. Can't really explain why it worked for years and then it doesn't. The only thing I could think of would be scaling on various surfaces that somehow finally made the system fail at the high temperatures you are used to.
Without checking to see how hot the water is when it trips out, you may never know the cause.
Same with checking for amp draw of the elements when the thermos are not calling for heat.
Things are not always as they appear.
Same with checking for amp draw of the elements when the thermos are not calling for heat.
Things are not always as they appear.
TonyN
Member
The pump is on a timer, so it only runs during the hours I am up. I thought I had this thing fixed after it ran a couple days after I lowered the thermostat setting, but now it's back to doing what it did. Here's the system I have: https://www.premierh2o.com/pages/500800-hot-water-br-recirculating-pump I'm beginning to think that maybe the sensor valve could be bad. This is how they work: How Do Sensor Valves Work? - Hot Water Recirculators
After reading everything in this thread I have some conclusions about possible issues causing your high limit ECO cutting out.
1. Grounded element
This can cause the element to heat 24/7 at a low rate.
2. Loose or improper internal wiring
Can cause the heater to heat continuously at a low or high rate and/or cause intermittent problems over over heating
3. Defective thermostats or thermostat
Could cause over heating leading to ECO tripping.
4. Frequent small draws of hot water.
A bypass valve could do this theoretically, when the bypass valve calls for hot water, cold water is introduced into the heater. Thermostats cut on and lag before they cut off, causing temp over shoot.
This could be aggravated by high thermostat temp settings. This could also be compounded by the user making small draws in conjunction with the bypass valve making small draws to keep the loop hot.
How to proceed.
1. Check all wiring making sure connections are tight
2. Check wiring diagram to insure wiring is technically correct.
3. Turn water temp down to 130
4. Check elements with a clamp on amp meter while thermostats are not calling for heat. They shouldn’t be pulling amperage.
5. Check the actual temp of the water several times a day at the source through the relief valve outlet.
6. Make a generous donation to Twowaxhacks bank account.
1. Grounded element
This can cause the element to heat 24/7 at a low rate.
2. Loose or improper internal wiring
Can cause the heater to heat continuously at a low or high rate and/or cause intermittent problems over over heating
3. Defective thermostats or thermostat
Could cause over heating leading to ECO tripping.
4. Frequent small draws of hot water.
A bypass valve could do this theoretically, when the bypass valve calls for hot water, cold water is introduced into the heater. Thermostats cut on and lag before they cut off, causing temp over shoot.
This could be aggravated by high thermostat temp settings. This could also be compounded by the user making small draws in conjunction with the bypass valve making small draws to keep the loop hot.
How to proceed.
1. Check all wiring making sure connections are tight
2. Check wiring diagram to insure wiring is technically correct.
3. Turn water temp down to 130
4. Check elements with a clamp on amp meter while thermostats are not calling for heat. They shouldn’t be pulling amperage.
5. Check the actual temp of the water several times a day at the source through the relief valve outlet.
6. Make a generous donation to Twowaxhacks bank account.
