Twisted Outdoor Faucet Pipe – What Repair Options Might My Plumber Suggest?

[doit]

I attempted to remove the outside faucet, but while twisting it from the outside, I realized the pipe itself had started to turn rather than the faucet. When I turned the water back on, I noticed a leak coming through the slab. I’ve already scheduled a plumber to come out next week, but since no one is living there right now, I’m trying to understand what my options might be.

I know it’s impossible to say for sure where the leak is located or the exact layout of the pipes, but I’d appreciate any insights or a "best guess" based on typical setups. I’ve included some photos and additional context: the water meter is located near the road, directly in front of the outdoor faucet. All other water-using fixtures — the washing machine, water heater, kitchen sink, and two bathrooms — are along the back wall of the house. The house was built in the early 1970s.

Here are some questions I have:

1. Is there a "typical" layout for water pipes in a house like this, especially if the only water user on one side is an outdoor faucet?
2. How far back into the house might the connection for this faucet typically be?
3. Does it appear from the picture that the water line is running under or through the slab?
4. What methods could a plumber use to identify the exact location of the leak?
5. What are the potential options for repairing the leak in the pipe?
6. Is it possible to cap or plug the leaking section of pipe to eliminate the outdoor faucet without affecting water flow to the rest of the house?
7. Could inserting a camera into the pipe help determine the leak's location and the distance back to where it connects to the main line?
8. Would the pipe likely follow a direct line between the faucet and the main water line, or is it common for these lines to take unexpected routes through the slab?

Thank you for any guidance you can provide.View attachment faucet_line_leak (4).jpg

 

[CT-18]

To many variables to even try and guess. You need to get a plumber in to have a look and give you some options and go from there. I would get a few estimates and pick what is best for your situation.

 

[pasadena_commut]

Is there an opening for a crawl space to go under the house? If so, you could go down there and have a look to see the pipe layout. Maybe even get a picture of the junction that unscrewed or broke. Most houses that entrance is somewhere around the outside edge of the foundation and covered by a screen or door, but I have seen houses where there is a trap door in a closet.

 

[doit]

Follow up:

I got a quote from a plumber for $2,800 to repair the leak. I decided to try to repair it myself. I rented a concrete saw from Home Depot and made a mess with all of the dust it created. I also borrowed a jack hammer from a friend. After I got through the slab, I had to remove some plastic and then dig through gravel and dirt to get to the pipe. It was twisted and leaking right at the 90 degree elbow connection. My brother-in-law and a friend actually replaced the elbow and pipe going to the faucet. Everything is working now. I just need to fill the hole and patch the slab. Does anyone have suggestions on how to repair the hole in the slab?
I have heard the following:
1. Fill the hole with dirt and pack it.
2. Add gravel on top of that.
3. Add a sheet of plastic.
4. Add the concrete. (don't really need reinforcement because of the location of the patch)

The other thing I have heard is:
1. Fill the hole with sand and pack it.
2. Add a sheet of plastic.
3. Add the concrete.

Here you can see the twisted pipe with the hole. It is coming straight up out of the ground and then has a 90 degree elbow on it going directly to the outdoor faucet. This pipe was completely covered with dirt underneath the slab.


View attachment 47027

I cut the hole in the slab a little too big, but I didn't know where the pipe would be located.


View attachment 47028


The last picture is the repaired pipe.View attachment 47030

 

[MicEd69]

Good job. I hope you somehow anchored the pipe at the faucet or provided access to the fitting where the faucet attaches to the pipe so that you won't be twisting the copper pipe to attach or remove the faucet. The main thing is to make sure there are no rocks or sharp edges in contact with the pipe as it can move a bit with shifting of the building. You may want to put something around the horizontal pipe going through the concrete hole. Some expanding polyurethane foam would be good, IMHO.
Then, either good soil or sand to fill the hole would be fine. Don't go overboard on compacting the soil as you could damage the copper pipe. Putting a plastic sheet under your patch will not accomplish anything unless there was a plastic sheet under your existing slab. But there should have been a layer of rock under your existing concrete slab, which should be maintained under your patch.

I like to use a boding adhesive to coat the edges of the hole in the concrete to improve the strength of the patch joint to the existing concrete.

 

[doit]

I have filled the hole in the concrete with sand and I will add the bonding adhesive before I pour the concrete.

I have a few questions:

1. Are you saying I should add a layer of rock on top of the sand before I pour the concrete?
2. How should I handle securing the hose bib to the brick where I knocked out a piece of brick when I initially started working on the problem?

It looks like the slot for the screw on the hose bib is too close to the edge of a brick on the left side and will just break the brick if I drill into it.

3. Should I just add mortar around the piece of brick I added to hold it in place or are there better methods?
4. Do you think something like the hose bib buddy in my pictures would work?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[MicEd69]

I have filled the hole in the concrete with sand and I will add the bonding adhesive before I pour the concrete.

I have a few questions:

1. Are you saying I should add a layer of rock on top of the sand before I pour the concrete?
2. How should I handle securing the hose bib to the brick where I knocked out a piece of brick when I initially started working on the problem?

It looks like the slot for the screw on the hose bib is too close to the edge of a brick on the left side and will just break the brick if I drill into it.

3. Should I just add mortar around the piece of brick I added to hold it in place or are there better methods?
4. Do you think something like the hose bib buddy in my pictures would work?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

1. There should have been a layer of rock under your concrete. It is there to provide a base for the concrete as well as a path for ground water to flow to drainage tile and/or a sump if you have one. If you didn't find a rock layer under your concrete floor, and you don't have any drainage tiles or a sump in your basement, you could just place your patching concrete on top of the sand.

2./3. I would pack that area with mortar and brick sections to match the repair as best I could with the surrounding brick.

4. I would absolutely use the hose bibb buddy for this repair. I've not used one before, but that would better secure the hose bib to the brick wall.

 

[doit]

1. There should have been a layer of rock under your concrete. It is there to provide a base for the concrete as well as a path for ground water to flow to drainage tile and/or a sump if you have one. If you didn't find a rock layer under your concrete floor, and you don't have any drainage tiles or a sump in your basement, you could just place your patching concrete on top of the sand.

2./3. I would pack that area with mortar and brick sections to match the repair as best I could with the surrounding brick.

4. I would absolutely use the hose bibb buddy for this repair. I've not used one before, but that would better secure the hose bib to the brick wall.

I don't have a basement or crawl space. The slab sits directly on the ground. There is a layer of rocks under the existing slab. I will add some rocks on top of the sand before adding the patching concrete. Thank you so much for your help.