Trying to determine where to install water filter

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DeuceCoop

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Hello all,

I recently moved into a house built in 72 on a well. I have taken some pictures in the hopes of getting some guidance on where I should install a water filter (and understanding whats going on in general).

I would like to install a UV filter for bacteria as well as one or possibly two (20/10 micron and 5 micron) solids filters.

I am trying to understand why two different branches are splitting off from my holding tank, and why the copper one has a bleeder valve, and why it bypasses the pressure gauge and shutoff valve. If you can tell whats going on with the routing of the softwater that would be great also.

This is in the basement, and I am getting ready to take the ceiling tiles off and start looking at the copper routing if I cant figure things out. I can upload as many more pictures are necessary if anyone's willing to help.

Thanks,
Greg
 

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It looks like there might be one or two sump pumps down under the floor, where that wood is bridging over the sump pit, if that is what it looks like.

It’s hard to make sense of those pics, maybe a video with very slow panning all around would be better.
And narrate what you think you are looking at, right or wrong.

As far as two branches from the tank, that might just be incoming from the well, and outgoing to house plumbing.
 
Thanks for the response Jeff. I am uploading a video now: . Basically from left to right, one sump pit appears to be solely for the water softener (which I assume is only plumbed to the toilets/showers?) and is coming from a copper pipe to the left (picture #1, picture #6). The right side (picture #2, picture #3) is the second sump pit, and the holding tank.

My assumption is that I should just put the filter after the pressure gauge on the pipe on the left (as seen in picture #2), but I am confused by the copper pipe next to it.

The orientation on pictures 7 and 8 is off sorry.
 
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It's really hard to tell what is what form your photos/video, but as a rule of thumb I like to see a sediment filter ahead of the softener, it really reduces problems. We soften all water used in the house, except for 1 faucet for drinking, and that has a charcoal filter. It's especially important to soften the water going to the water heater, and on to the dishwasher. A valve with a bleeder used to be common supplying outside sillcocks so they could be drained in freezing weather.
 
Just a quick opinion/guess but it looks like that copper line leading down into the sump pit is probably some kind of drain, since there is a shutoff valve and a hose at the bottom.

It might be a drain for the entire plumbing system upstairs, but not sure why it would be needed.

EDIT, the big copper line by the well tank is probably the line leading from the tank to the house plumbing.

Post a pic to verify this.
 
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Hard to see but it looks like the sump pit on the left has one riser coming up to a check valve and continuing on.

This might be a sump for a toilet or washing machine or sink?

The pit on the right looks to have two similar risers, so that might be a sump pump and backup pump for groundwater/rain water.
 
I can’t see if that long copper riser connects near the floor with that long galvanized pipe.

Post a few pics down near the floor to confirm they are joined or separate.
They may also join together further up off the floor.

If it does connect, then just based on types of piping I am guessing that the long galvanized pipe is incoming water from the well.

EDIT I see in a pic that the galvanized pipe has the pressure switch, so that is almost certainly the incoming line from the well.

Then it has a short branch to the pressure tank through the pvc.

Then the other short branch probably somewhere connects to the long copper riser, which feeds well water to the whole house.

You can put a water filter anywhere before the softener.

Or even after, but before is more common.

I actually moved mine from before to after the softener, because otherwise the filter plugged up in about two weeks.
I had extremely heavy iron load.
I just ran the softener almost every night, and used the softener as kind of a pre-filter, it backflushed all that crap out before it could clog my filters.

And I used iron cleaning salt, and cleaned the softener with IronOut monthly, followed by another regeneration cycle to flush out the IronOut weird taste and smell.

And then I ran about twenty or thirty gallons of cold water into the bathtub and also a slop sink, to further purge the IronOut cleaner from the resin bed of the softener.
Lots of black and gunky crap always came out.

Mount the filter housing somewhere you can get to it to change filters, which might be as often as monthly.
And they can be extremely tight, so you will want good access right up close.
And they will leak water while being serviced.

Much easier to cut copper and install filters with compression fittings, no soldering.

The area by the softener and sump pits looks like a giant shitpile, so try to avoid hanging the filters in there, that whole area is ridiculous.
 
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Thanks Jeff and thanks Russ for the tip.

I attached a photo close up. Jeff I think what you are saying is correct, so I was wrong in my video and the filter would probably best sit somewhere along the copper pipe that feeds upward.

I also will think about replacing the galvanized pipe as I have heard they are prone to rusting.

As for the water softener, , it is being fed with a copper line that approaches from the far left, I will have to verify where its water is coming from. I dont know if its in series with the pressure tank (after it). I dont know where else it would be fed from, therefore placing a filter after the pressure tank would then filter then softener as Russ recommended.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help clear this up I really appreciate it!
 

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You should drain your entire house plumbing system, including the well tank, at least once a year or two.

You will probably get so much junk out you won’t believe it.

Put the softener and water filter on bypass during draining and flushing.

Afterwards, run plenty of cold water into a bathtub or out a slop sink or exterior hose faucet, until the water looks clear again.

You don’t want to drink the cloudy water, or let it go into the water heater, or stain your laundry.

EDIT I wrote this long post maybe before your last response.
 
UPDATE Now I see in the new pic that the pressure tank is definitely fed by the galvanized, which then branches the opposite way and joins the bottom of that long copper riser.

So anywhere between there and the softener is good for the filter, just remember you need good access and there will be some minor spills during filter changes.
Maybe a gallon, more or less.
Be sure to set up the filter with a shutoff lever handle ball valve before and after.
Most good filters will have internal controls to allow for bypass mode.
Some will have a Service mode to change filters, but install both shutoff valves anyway.
 
Thanks Jeff and thanks Russ for the tip.

I attached a photo close up. Jeff I think what you are saying is correct, so I was wrong in my video and the filter would probably best sit somewhere along the copper pipe that feeds upward.

I also will think about replacing the galvanized pipe as I have heard they are prone to rusting.

As for the water softener, , it is being fed with a copper line that approaches from the far left, I will have to verify where its water is coming from. I dont know if its in series with the pressure tank (after it). I dont know where else it would be fed from, therefore placing a filter after the pressure tank would then filter then softener as Russ recommended.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help clear this up I really appreciate it!

Just make sure you don't filter the water for the outside sillcocks, if you have any.
 
If you can’t avoid running filtered water to the outside hose faucets without doing extensive re-plumbing, then you can always just switch to bypass mode if you are doing any lengthy lawn watering etc.

Probably set the softener to bypass then also.
 
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