Toilet Flange bent up at each bolt slot

[Twowaxhack]

That’s fine, I just like to fill in a dead space like that with concrete if the home is on a slab.

The idea is to put the flange at the correct height. Your spacer does that. That’s what I do on wood construction.

On concrete I use the concrete I linked to you.,

I would use the anchor cement to fill in rather than silicone.

I’ve been doing it this way for 30 yrs and it works perfectly and lasts.

 

[zboltman]

Thank you Twowaxhack, your advice is very appreciated. Filling in with cement between the new flanges and the tile is a great idea. I can do that and still stick to my Wifes concept of it being able to be dissasembled....

Please forgive the way I format my response. Before retirement; I was a Maintenance Engineer. Writing procedures was something I did on a weekly basis...

 

[Twowaxhack]

Thank you Twowaxhack, your advice is very appreciated. Filling in with cement between the new flanges and the tile is a great idea. I can do that and still stick to my Wifes concept of it being able to be dissasembled....

Please forgive the way I format my response. Before retirement; I was a Maintenance Engineer. Writing procedures was something I did on a weekly basis...

If you do it right no one will see it for a very long time, and may not ever take it apart. . I’m only making suggestions, don’t worry about me

 

[zboltman]

Hello all, I think I am ready for the dry fit of the toilet.
2 Questions:
The flange is at a slight angle; 1/2" on the back side and 5/16" on the front; Will this be a problem or will the wax tolerate the difference?
The insert that I put in, I have tightened the three allen screws just hand tight. Super snug. I did not torque them down. Is this right?

 

[Twowaxhack]

The flange doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect. That you have is fine.

Tighten the Allen screws with a wrench. Tighten them evenly and snug with a wrench.

 

[zboltman]

The flange doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect. That you have is fine.

Tighten the Allen screws with a wrench. Tighten them evenly and snug with a wrench.

Thank you, going to proceed today.

(I know this seems like it is taking me forever, but I am old and not in the best health. My Wife lets me work for a little while then she stops me and makes me take mulltiple breaks...)

 

[Twowaxhack]

Looks like you’re doing fine.

 

[TomFOhio]

Thank you, going to proceed today.

(I know this seems like it is taking me forever, but I am old and not in the best health. My Wife lets me work for a little while then she stops me and makes me take mulltiple breaks...)

It sounds like you got a good wife.

 

[zboltman]

I just want to thank everybody. Seated the toilet this morning, (with shims :-( , and it is fantastic.
Going to wait a day before I seal up the bottom to make triple sure it does not leak; but so far after 20 flushes, it looks great.
I appreciate all your time that you helped me with this. I could have done it without you all

 

[Twowaxhack]

Mix up some of that anchor cement to the consistency of peanut butter and use it like grout.

Work it in between the bowl and the floor with your finger. The excess wipes up easy as it dries.

The toilet will sit rock solid.

 

[zboltman]

HELP!!! The project that never is going to end
OK, seated the toilet and today my Wife notice water on the floor in front of it. From a crack!!!
Now, this is the conundrum...
Could this have happened from a crack that was in the base when I received it? And it just expanded?
Or, could this be because of the way I shimed it? (I doubt this...)
I shimmed it in every gap down to a 1/16" of an inch.
The back and left side was mostly shimmed.
Could the weight of a person sitting on this put enough pressure on the front to crack the lip and cause this?
(Assuming that the center area was floating enough to put that much pressure on the front...)



I took a picture of the shims I put in; After I just removed the cracked toilet.

 

[TomFOhio]

If that's a brand new toilet I would pack it up and take it back and get a new one. If it happens
again with the new one then maybe your shims have something to do with it when your tightening
it.

 

[Twowaxhack]

This is why I use the anchor cement I talked about. It supports the base all the way around and doesn’t put pressure like shims do. If the floor is bad out of level I set the toilet then the the cement dry almost completely before I tighten the closet nuts down.

The stuff dries in 15 minutes.

 

[zboltman]

I am starting to like the anchor cement idea more and more.
I flipped the new toilet over and measure where the resting places are inside the rim area.
Twowaxhack; Do you think if I mix it like peanut butter and place gobs of it around all of the "inside" pressure points, it will do the trick?
I mean place the toilet immediately after mixing the cement and putting gobs down. The toilet should set into it and be supported?

 

[zboltman]

If that's a brand new toilet I would pack it up and take it back and get a new one. If it happens
again with the new one then maybe your shims have something to do with it when your tightening
it.

Yes, Tom, I am returning it today and they will order me a new one. Thank You

 

[Twowaxhack]

Mix it up like peanut butter and work it all the way around the bowl. Let it dry for a few minutes then take a putty knife and use the bottom of the bowl as a guide to remove the excess. I’ve put it up to 1/2” thick or better to fill in a low tile.

Then let it dry for another 15 minutes. Snug the closet bolts down.

This supports the base completely. I’ve done it hundred times.

It looks messy while doing it but it all cleans up.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Cement sounds great, but I would use plenty of shims first, and not sit on the toilet for the first day.

And don’t over tighten the bolts.

Do plenty of test flushes for a day, and look for leaks.

Then push in the cement, let it set, and take a victory poop.

Just my opinion.

If you cement it, and it leaks, the cement might hide it, unless you leave a small space in the back.

 

[Twowaxhack]

It’s anchor cement. It dries in about 25 minutes so hard that you’d crack the toilet before the cement squeezed out.

Once it dries it creates a custom form fit to the floor and toilet.

You don’t even need shims after the cement sets up.


WTF

 

[Jeff Handy]

I was just saying that if you cement it right away, any leaks would not show up, they would be trapped.

And doesn’t it needs some shims for leveling anyway, before adding cement?

 

[zboltman]

You are both right, I will be using shims initially and I'll be using the cement between the shim and in the center support areas of the toilet.
I have always planned to leave a "weep hole" to watch for leaks.
But this will be on hold for a few days until the new one gets delivered.