Tackling a slab house, PEX attic repipe in Florida

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flowrida

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Hi,
New member, first time post.

We have a fairly small +/- 1300 sq ft home in Central Florida. Built in 1982, it is cinder block on a concrete slab. All the in house plumbing is copper and it is in the slab and only comes up at the fixtures. The hose bibs on the outside walls are connected inside the cinder blocks.

The problem is that we have developed pin hole leaks. Two so far. One under the kitchen sink, the other under the hall bathroom sink. I had to bust out the cinder block under the kitchen sink to repair that one. (kitchen sink wall is cinder block as it backs up to the enclosed back porch.)
The bathroom sink backs up to our entry way wall so I accessed it through the drywall.

Since we have had two pinholes in about the last 6 months, and the house being 35 years old, I assume this will be an ongoing problem unless I get it fixed. I figure the best fix is to repipe with PEX in the attic. Insulation is not an issue.

I believe I can drop ½” PEX down to all the fixtures from above and cut access panels behind where needed.

My questions so far…

1) Do I use a ball valve manifold mounted in the garage and run individual hot and cold PEX from it to each fixture? OR,
Run a ¾” hot and cold line the length of the house in the attic and tee off ½” drops?

2) The hose bibs on the exterior walls seem to be a problem. Access will be quite a pain. Since I have a separate irrigation water meter, could I just run a line from it to around the foundation of the house and put galvanized risers up where I want a hose bib and attach them to the outside of the wall?

3) Any easy way to find where the water supply comes into the house? There is no main cut off valve other than the water meter.

I have...replaced sinks, faucets, toilets, and our water heater. This will be my biggest plumbing undertaking so far. Feel free to offer opinions and ask questions. I don't think our insurance will cover any of this so I hope to do as much as possible myself. I have attached a diagram of the house.

Thanks in advance… I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I get closer to tackling this.

house diagram FILLED 1.jpg
 
I guess I'm confused. I get the blue cold line run, although I still might have to run a separate outside line to the hose bibs. I don't know how I can drop down inside the cinderblock walls.
I am confused by the red and orange hot water lines. It looks like the red line runs from the water heater, to the front left end of the house. Then it connects to the orange line that runs back up to the middle left of the house, then right all the way back to the bathroom at the far right of the house.
Please explain.
Thanks
 
it is a circulating line. the hot water, comes out of the tank
goes to the guest bath,,,then to the kitchn sink...then to master bath
back to the water heater

it concts to the watr with a pump..it is controled by a t stat on the water line
it will keep the water in the loop at a set temp. you will neve wait for hot water


the hose bibs..i have set up to all be run togther. with a valve in the garage, it will shut off all hose bibs

house diagram FILLED 1.jpg

shower.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, at least it makes sense now! I appreciate your efforts, but I think it is more complicated than I want to attempt. I don't mind waiting for the water to get hot at the faucets, I've been doing that for 30 years.

I am looking for the simplest, durable system that I can put in.
 
I am guessing the manifold version costs more is because of the price of the manifold and more PEX used. Correct?

If I go that route, should I still run 3/4" lines to the tub and shower? Are there manifolds that have both 1/2 and 3/4 outlets?

I have read some bad reviews about the plastic? type manifolds. Are the copper manifolds with brass ball valves the way to go?
 
Can the Manabloc be mounted in the attic? I have a pull down staircase and it would make installing much easier if it could go up there. I am just concerned about the heat in a Central Florida attic.
 

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