Stop Valve Defect or Faucet Defect?

[Bob Griffith]

Just replaced a 15 year old Kohler Avatar faucet with a new Kohler Simplice (K-596-VS).

The Avatar finally developed a leaking pullout hose which eventually rusted out the under sink clamp setup -- actually made it easier to remove. And upon first use both cold and hot water streams from the new (or the old) faucet were identical with reasonably strong flow. But now the hot water stream is much weaker.

Possibly contributing (?) is a conventional appearing stop valve, only on the hot water supply, and with a wye branched outlet to both the faucet and dishwasher. And by conventional I mean a globe valve type, perhaps with a rubber seat -- anyway presently does not turn fully off (a DIY inconvenience as I am not personally allowed access to my external shutoff in our condo complex (yes, dumb, and one reason I have leak detection stops for the clothes washer and fridge -- under-sink/dishwasher next).

QUESTION: Is it possible that some kind of seat debris from the globe type stop valve has reached and is affecting the hot water flow in the new faucet? Or is the single combination valve in the new faucet somehow defective -- a really smooth working ceramic type with no difference in “feel” between hot and cold, on or off. Note, the bath faucets in our unit all exhibit uniform flow on both hot and cold sides.

Appreciatively,

Bob G

 

[Twowaxhack]

The washer probably came off the stop valve. It may come out in pieces rather than one piece.

Take the stop valve apart and look in there with a flashlight, then use a pick to remove the old washer.

 

[Bob Griffith]

The washer probably came off the stop valve. It may come out in pieces rather than one piece.

Take the stop valve apart and look in there with a flashlight, then use a pick to remove the old washer.

Thanks for your note. But does this mean a stop valve seat piece may have moved to partially clog the new faucet, and how do I deal wiht that?

Note: It's actually my intention to totally replace both stop valves with quarter turn ceramics plus install leak detector initiated stops in series when I overhaul the undersink cabinet space which has suffered water damage in the past.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The washer could still be in the valve or it could’ve broken into pieces and clogged the faucet.

Start at the stop valve.

 

[Bob Griffith]

The washer could still be in the valve or it could’ve broken into pieces and clogged the faucet.

Start at the stop valve.

Possible to back-flush the faucet from the nozzle end hose coupling?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Possible to back-flush the faucet from the nozzle end hose coupling?

Read post number 2 and number 4. That’s my advice.

 

[Bob Griffith]

Read post number 2 and number 4. That’s my advice.

Read them, understood and agree. What I'm just asking, as disassembly of the faucet is not simple, especially with my downsized tool set, IS an air or H2O back flush while working the faucet valve possible/helpful -- given removal of the check valve thing in the flex line and access at that point? Otherwise, given the time and money, even for a pro, I might as well just replace the entire faucet. Or hassle Kohler for something that may not be their fault.

Twowaxhack, I do deeply appreciate your consultations.

Bob

 

[Twowaxhack]

The obstruction may be in the stop valve, not the faucet.

Start by removing the stop valve stem then with a flashlight look into the valve for the old washer if it’s not on the stop valve stem

It may have broken in pieces and is still in the stop valve restricting the water flow.

Start with the stop valve

 

[Bob Griffith]

The obstruction may be in the stop valve, not the faucet.

Start by removing the stop valve stem then with a flashlight look into the valve for the old washer if it’s not on the stop valve stem

It may have broken in pieces and is still in the stop valve restricting the water flow.

Start with the stop valve

Yes. First diagnostic step. And I will replace this type of stop valve regardless. Thanks, Bob.