Rheem Tankless Water Heater Code 11 (No Ignition)

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You need to check gas pressures, supply and manifold. What type of gas? Did you clean the flame rods? If so with what. Is the intake/exhaust clear? When using compressed air to blow the burner out it is recommended to use at least 120 psi. My suspicion would be gas issues or inconsistent spark. Did you test the ignitor voltage?
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I guess if nothing else works I probably should have the pressure checked. It's natural gas, and the supply is a 3/4". Even though it's worked okay for 16 or so years, who knows, maybe something happened to the line, or gunk build up on the valves.

My other gas appliances seem okay but they're not as "hungry" (a gas furnace and a gas cooktop). At first I did wonder if my utility provider was having issues, so I cranked all 5 burners on the cooktop and it seemed fine, but I know the tankless can consume a lot more than that. Still, I'd expect some type of ignition to happen...

I did clean the flame rods and ignitor rods when I was cleaning the burner assembly (with some "wire cloth" I use to clean copper pipe before soldering, and also some fine grit sandpaper).

Fortunately the igniter is sparking really well. I can see it pretty clear through the observation window. It'll spark for a couple seconds, pause, and then a couple more seconds. I don't know for sure but I have a feeling that's standard, for it to spark and see if the flame rods detect the heat, then it'll try again for a few more seconds before stopping and throwing the error code.

When I was using my air blower, it's a high volume, low pressure type thing and was great for getting out most of the stuff, and then on my 2nd cleaning when I used the air compressor, I do think the concentrated air helped get more out. But I was only using 50 PSI (I think I had the compressor set there from last time I blew the water out of my RV). I can sure try cranking it up.

Since I'm getting good spark but no flame (when it throws the error) I think that does point towards it being gas flow related. It's an outdoor model so the intake is just direct from the front of the enclosure. I did also make sure the intake grill on the front wasn't clogged (it was fine), and during my troubleshooting I've left the cover off so I know there's no issue with air getting in, and it would still throw the error now and then.

Oh, fan seems to be working good. Using the maintenance mode options, it said the fan was spinning at 3200-3300 RPM. I don't remember what a normal range would be, but it seems reasonable (and seems as loud as it's always been) :)

I'm going to give it a couple more days and keep track of how many times it fails to burn... it has been so much better recently so who knows, maybe something finally unjammed itself. But if it does come back, I may as well take that burner back out and give it 125 PSI through everything.

Should I be careful blowing that much pressure into the outlet of the gas valve? No risk of blowing a seal or gasket inside there? (I have been careful not to damage or lose the o-rings on the gas feed tubes) :)

Am I right in assuming on this type of model, with 3 stage heating (3 burner sections) that it'll light up more sections if the GPM flow rate needs it? I understand there's also the PGFR that'll change that flow rate based on demand, so I guess I was just thinking that, if anything, this would point to a problem with either the main valve itself, or the solenoid controlling the primary burner section? Maybe the PFGR could be a suspect, I'm just not sure how those all interact with each other.

Like... does the main valve get the signal to open, then one, two or all three of the burner valves, and the PGFR is just responsible for opening the main valve a certain amount? That didn't quite make sense, because the main valve, along with the other 3, will all get 104'ish volts (when working, and wide open flow rate), so I'm assuming those are just on/off. Is the PGFR yet another valve in front of the main one that can vary the aperture? Maybe because it's variable, it isn't capable of fully closing, thus the need for the main valve itself. I suppose that makes sense. The other solenoids have to be fast acting, on/off, and reliable. The proportional part of the PGFR doesn't have to be as fast acting (and it does use lower voltages) so it might use a slower acting ball valve or somthing similar. But could that get stuck in some unknown state, so when demand is high (all 3 burner sections need to light), the PGFR isn't all the way open like it should be? Just spitballing ideas... :)
 
Well, the issue came back today and no matter what, it seems like it's broken for good.

I at least had the chance to take measurements again in the "down" state, and I've confirmed that I get no voltage now on the solenoid pins. When it was working I was getting good voltage, but now I get nothing at all on any of them. The PGFR is still okay, but on the master solenoid and valves 1-3 I get a big old nothing.

I took the entire board out and looked it over closely with my magnifying goggles. Admittedly it's hard to really tell if anything looks wrong because of the rubberized coating on everything (which would make component repair difficult, if not impossible). There is one resistor and a ceramic cap that look kind of toasty, and it's right by that plug for the solenoids, so I'm suspicious of it for sure, but I just can't tell.

I can't seem to find anywhere that has the replacement board (RTG20006PG) in stock. I mean, it's 16-17 year old unit, so I think I'm SOL on this one. I ordered a new tank (going with a tank, goodbye tankless) which should (hopefully) arrive tomorrow. My old stubs for hot/cold/gas from back when I went from a tank to tankless are still kind of in their same spot, just capped, although the old tee for the gas line got taken out when I had my furnace replaced. And the Y going into the exhaust, for both the furnace and hot water, will need to be cut in again so hopefully it's not going to be too much of a hassle.

Sigh... well, I tried. I mean, I *tried*. :) I gave this poor little fella everything I could but if it's an issue on the board itself, what can you do?

Thanks for the advice on things to check. I guess it was getting marginal before and whatever it was, it finally gave up the ghost today.
 
Sorry to hear, but just look at the bright side. You will now have one or two hot showers left when your tanked W/H goes out.
 
Amen to that. :) We've already encountered "issues" over the years during power outages. Our old tank had no issues (standing pilot light) but with the tankless, we needed the generator going if we wanted hot water. And let's just say that on one particularly spicy occasion, the generator was running just a bit after 10 PM so the wife could take her shower, and the neighbor came pounding on the door to "shut that racket down". It was interesting. I know our old non-inverter generator was loud, but yikes. (we got an inverter generator later... quieter and a real neighbor-relation-saver).

The other nice things about going back to a water tank will be:
  • Not hearing the blower fan on the tankless all the time - the way it was mounted to the wall, it seemed to resonate that part of the house
  • Our high efficiency LG washing machine played havoc with it. The numerous on/off cycles of very short duration... I doubt any hot water ever got to the washer during those pulses. It would barely run enough water for the burners to kick in (ugh, and the water hammer from that washer!)
  • Having a little extra emergency water just in case (earthquake prone area... reminds me I'll have to get the straps to anchor the tank).
Things I'll miss... just not worrying about running out (new tank is 75 gallons though, so for 2 people I know that's way overkill). Another really nice thing that only comes up a couple times of year is when draining and filling the hot tub. I could set the temp on the tankless down to 104F and fill it straight from the tankless hot water bib (it's near enough). More energy efficient than using electric to heat up the 45-50F water, and so much faster to the point we could dip in the hot tub right away, whereas I suspect with using the spa to heat it up, we'll be waiting a day before it's up to temp.

Maintenance wise, it's kind of a wash. I wasn't as diligent about flushing/descaling the tankless as I should have been. I didn't even know I was supposed to, for about the first decade. I didn't get too much crud coming out when I did that first flush though, but I'm sure in other areas, not flushing the system for 10 years would be catastrophic. The tank also needs maintenance but not quite as much, I don't think. Heck, it's been so long I'll have to remind myself what to check for. LOL
 
The plumbers coming to check out the space for the install have just informed me that the Rheem 75 gallon models have had so many maintenance issues, they're recommending either changing to a 50-gallon size, or using a different brand. Something about the 75-gallon specifically, and only within the past couple years (older models didn't have whatever issue).

Does that sound about right? I know this is a thread hijack, and I should just search to see if it's mentioned, but that caught me by surprise. I told them to bring their recommended 75-gallon model instead and I'll just return the Rheem to Home Depot. Not worth the risk of issues and it didn't sound too much more expensive, but I wanted to research that potential Rheem problem for sure.

EDIT: thought I'd mention, the one they're bringing is a Bradford White. I haven't heard of them personally but reading just now, it sounds like they come highly recommended by plumbers. :)
 
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