Replace water heater early?

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

We here in NC follow state mandated rules, a detailed Standard of Practice or SOP for each inspection. Not every state has such rules nor are they the same. Some states don’t license home inspection.

Like plumbing or electrical codes, which such licensed contractors are supposed to follow, there’s a reason why each item is mandated or not, and not everyone agrees with every item.

Regarding the T&P valve, it is likely the valve works regardless of whether it’s tested or not. If you do test it, the possibility exists that it may not fully close after testing thus creating a leaky situation that must be addressed. If the inspector tests it and it leaks, usually the inspector will be responsible for its repair or replacement. This is a situation nobody likes…”But it was not leaking before you tested it!”

We’re responsible in NC for testing “normal operator controls”. The T&P valve is not a normal operator control. It is an automatic safety control.

More specifically, in NC, …The home inspector is not required to…Operate automatic safety controls…Operate any valve except water closet flush valves, fixture faucets, and hose faucets…

Like it or not testing T&P valves in a home inspection will generally lead to trouble for the inspector. If I see problems with the water heater (and I see plenty of those) or evidence of past problems (staining from prior leaks) I detail and photograph the issue(s) and the inspection report will indicate “further evaluation by a qualified contractor is suggested”.

Likewise, the test button on a smoke detector isn’t a normal operator control. If the homeowner is present and we can be assured that the smokes are not connected to any other alarm or reporting system they’ll be checked. In a majority of homes I’ve inspected the smokes are older than 10 years…in that case they are beyond their rated life and the report will indicate that.

My preference is not to pay for repairs or replacement of items in someone else’s home.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The manufacturer recommends testing the relief valve once a year.

You recommend leaving it alone because it might leak if you test it.


That’s how it shakes out.

I’m not passing judgement, just making an observation.

 

[MrInfoPhilly]

One would think safety devices ( smoke detectors and t&p valves) would be important parts of a home inspection.

one would think.... Reality is often different

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

The manufacturer recommends testing the relief valve once a year.

You recommend leaving it alone because it might leak if you test it.

That’s how it shakes out.

I’m not passing judgement, just making an observation.

I don't recommend "leaving it alone"; not at all. I just don't recommend that this be done by a home inspector. There are a lot of recommendations in a home inspection report, and generally if the T&P isn't tested, it's noted why. I've inspected a number of new homes, and no reason to test a T&P on a home that the water heater was installed a month prior. On a home with a 20 year old water heater, you'd be a fool to test one without the ability to remedy a leaky condition, and I'm not a plumber; in my professional capacity I cannot "work on" a water heater! You note why it wasn't tested (danger of damage to property) and let the seller and buyer determine if its an issue for them.

A T&P Relief Valve, like ANY automatic safety control, should be tested according to the manufacturer's recommendations. If that's every 6 months, or more, so be it. It should be done by a savvy homeowner, or by a plumber who should be equipped to deal with the consequence of one that either fails, or fails to close properly after testing. A plumber would have the tools to deal with either situation in his bag or on the truck, and probably has a new one on the truck. A homeowner or home inspector does not generally have an immediate remedy at hand.

Also to note: Watts, for example, one of the largest manufacturers of such devices, recommends REMOVAL of the T&P valve every three years for complete inspection. I'm sure every plumber does this on the water heaters you install? You notify the clients of this? Every water heater you work on has a log of inspection data for each T&P valve? I think not.

Likewise, on a gas furnace there are three or more automatic safety controls: a pilot sensor, a limit switch, and a rollout switch. Other automatic controls would be those that test the pressure to see if the exhaust blower is working on a condensing furnace, and those that test the airflow intake. Home Inspectors do NOT test ANY of those; that's the job for an HVAC tech. We do test that the furnace responds to a call for heat from the Tstat, and a call for cool as well. We don't test a/c when it's not safe to do so. I've found new homes where things don't work, and older homes where the condition of the furnace or a/c warrant a service call. That's noted in the report.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I don't recommend "leaving it alone"; not at all. I just don't recommend that this be done by a home inspector. There are a lot of recommendations in a home inspection report, and generally if the T&P isn't tested, it's noted why. I've inspected a number of new homes, and no reason to test a T&P on a home that the water heater was installed a month prior. On a home with a 20 year old water heater, you'd be a fool to test one without the ability to remedy a leaky condition, and I'm not a plumber; in my professional capacity I cannot "work on" a water heater! You note why it wasn't tested (danger of damage to property) and let the seller and buyer determine if its an issue for them.

A T&P Relief Valve, like ANY automatic safety control, should be tested according to the manufacturer's recommendations. If that's every 6 months, or more, so be it. It should be done by a savvy homeowner, or by a plumber who should be equipped to deal with the consequence of one that either fails, or fails to close properly after testing. A plumber would have the tools to deal with either situation in his bag or on the truck, and probably has a new one on the truck. A homeowner or home inspector does not generally have an immediate remedy at hand.

Also to note: Watts, for example, one of the largest manufacturers of such devices, recommends REMOVAL of the T&P valve every three years for complete inspection. I'm sure every plumber does this on the water heaters you install? You notify the clients of this? Every water heater you work on has a log of inspection data for each T&P valve? I think not.

Likewise, on a gas furnace there are three or more automatic safety controls: a pilot sensor, a limit switch, and a rollout switch. Other automatic controls would be those that test the pressure to see if the exhaust blower is working on a condensing furnace, and those that test the airflow intake. Home Inspectors do NOT test ANY of those; that's the job for an HVAC tech. We do test that the furnace responds to a call for heat from the Tstat, and a call for cool as well. We don't test a/c when it's not safe to do so. I've found new homes where things don't work, and older homes where the condition of the furnace or a/c warrant a service call. That's noted in the report.

I offer a one year complete warranty on materials and labor.

If I work on a water heater I typically replace the relief valve, but sometimes I don’t. It’s at my discretion.

The relief valve has a lever on it so it can be tested.

How do you inspect the relief valve piping is complete and leak free of you don’t run water through it ?

it might run into the wall and be capped off.

When I install a water heater I get most of the air out of the tank through the relief valve. Then I check the outlet to make sure I have full flow and it’s terminated appropriately.

I’ve found a lot of them that were incomplete or improper.

So sometimes you will check the relief valve ? You say it’s noted on the report if you don’t test it.

What goods an inspection if by inspecting yiu still don’t know if the item is operable ? Seems kinda like a gimmick service unless it’s done throughly.

 

[TomFOhio]

The only way I would open a 12 year old relief valve to test it is by letting the customer know that if it leaks
afterwards the valve will have to be replaced at their expense. I've seen guys open brand new relief valves
to bleed it out and not be able to get it to stop dripping.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The only way I would open a 12 year old relief valve to test it is by letting the customer know that if it leaks
afterwards the valve will have to be replaced at their expense. I've seen guys open brand new relief valves
to bleed it out and not be able to get it to stop dripping.

I open every one that I install or on new water heaters.

If I’m servicing a water heater then it’s my job to check it. It’s a liability if I don’t.

If anything is said about that water heater on my invoice then it’s a liability if it doesn’t operate if needed.

The older the heater, the more important it is to check it.

 

[Hamberg]

I attend a LOT of inspections and the inspectors here (Philly area) do check the smoke/CO detectors BUT as you said I never seen then pop the TP value - so I asked why!?

And the reason, to me, was plausible; they said, opening the lever/valve only proves the value will open and doesn't prove the valve (pressure relief part) is actually working.

He elaborated, much like @Mitchell-DIY-Guy said, if the valve hasn't (and we all know most are not) checked every few months, the sediment build-up prevents the valve from closing fully and they leak/drip and they (inspector) ends up buying a new one.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I think the homeowner should have to buy and pay for the install of a new relief valve if it breaks or leaks during the home inspection.

Its not the inspectors fault the valve is faulty just because he operates it

Same with a GFCI receptacle with the test button. If the inspector hits the test button and the outlet won’t reset, it’s not the inspectors fault.

 

[three_jeeps]

first time I heard about changing the annode rod. How often to change it?

I flush/drain my HW tank about once every 2 years, and test the pressure valve. On average, they fail to re-seal about 1 in every 5 or 6, roughly speaking.

WRT the OP changing his tank or not, I comes down to economics. Given the tightness of layout of the furnace and water heater, how much would you save (time, money) by having it changed now vs later. Yes, you can 'buy down' the extra charge or replacement by keeping the existing tank, but it seems it is close to its EOL. As dirty Harry says 'do ya feel lucky?'
good luck
J

 

[rickwhoo]

I keep a spare relief valve in my plumbing tool bucket just incase.