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WyrTwister

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I live in a house built in the 1950's . Pier & beam construction , so I can get under the house to work . Just barely . I am getting too old & fat & stove up . :-(

Last year , I re-piped the hot water ( did not replace the stub ups going up into the walls ) . Had a water leak , some where where the hot water piping was buried in the dirt , under the house .

Leak returned & I have re-piped almost all of the cold water , that was in the dirt , under the house . Did not fix the leak .

The main water line , from the water meter to the house was 3/4" copper . I rented a mini-excavator at Home Depot & dug a ditch for the new water main .

I went back with 1" white PEX . Under the house , I used a 1" PEX to 3/4" male pipe thread fitting to transition to the 3/4" copper cold water lines . I tried to use a 1" water meter fitting , at the water meter , but had to use the old 3/4" water meter fitting and transition to the 1" PEX fitting .

The main bath and bath in the back bedroom had 3/4" copper going to it , for cold water , as did the water heater . The kitchen had a 1/2" cold water line going to it . That stayed the same size .

The shower , lavatory and toilet reduced down to 1/2" , in each bathroom .

All have plenty of pressure , so 1/2" seems to be fine / sufficient .

I used the PEX brass barb fittings ( two ) that use the black copper crimp ring . I had to purchase the $ 109 crimp tool that would go up to 1" . It has dies to go down to 3/8" , I think .

The PEX & ditch were done between Christmas Eve and New Years . I checked the water meter yesterday and all the dials were stationary , indicating no leaks . :)

Praise the Lord !

I bought the PEX , crimp tool & fittings at Home Depot & Lowes . The 1" white PEX id very stiff , on a cool / cold winter day ( 40's or 50's ) . It has a very determined memory from being packaged in a coil . I had to walk it down into the ditch & use a hoe to drag dirt down on top of it . To weight it down and get it to stay in the ditch .

It was very stiff , bending it to match up with the 2 brass barbed crimp fittings . But , so far , all is well . :)

I do not know about smaller sizes of PEX . They are probably less stiff . Also , I read there are 3 different types of PEX , A , B and C . I think the PEX I bought is probably A ? B & C are suppose to be less stiff , than A , I think ?

God bless
Wyr
 
According to the link you posted , I may have bought type B ?

Next time I get a chance , I will try to do a little better job of reading what is written on one of the pieces I cut off .

Best I remember , all the parts and pieces were SharkBite brand , bought at Home Depot & Lowes .

God bless
Wyr
 
663 ft CASH-ACME 1" SDR9 PEX 5106 160PSI @73F - 100PSI @180F - 80PSI @200F C4 151002 12:25 10128215N004 C UPC (R) NSF-61 CSA B137.5 ANSA/AWWA C904 ASTM F876/F877 (ASTM 1807, ASTM F2098, ASTM F2159, ASSE 1061, UL1821 ) MADE IN THE USA SHARKBITE

This is what it says on the PEX . Does this mean it is type C ?

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless
 
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Think so, either way you definitely bought the right stuff.

TYPE C, SharkBite being a manufacturer, does not seem to be the ideal product according to the referring URL I posted.

I have some SharkBite tubing in my whole house filter system but would not used it (I think) if I was aware of different tubing types at the time.

Comments?
 
It does say Cash-Acme . Which the chart says is one of the manufacturers of PEX-C .

But the chart also says little or no coil memory & softer than PEX-B . It has huge coil memory & there is nothing soft about it . Even after being in the house , in my " man cave " for at least 24 hours .

Makes me wonder if the chart is out of date ?

The chart also says PEX-B is cheaper than PEX-A & PEX-C . I would guess SharkBite & Home Depot ( and Lowes ) would be selling the cheaper product ?

God bless
Wyr
 
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I guess the best approach would be to contact SharkBite and ask what type they sell (and if they actually manufacturer it).

I can see the benefits of PEX if (cost of product and labor) if one was a major plumbing contractor but I don't see the benefits if one was to plumb his own home do to flow restrictions and cost of home run manifolds, etc.
 
I guess the best approach would be to contact SharkBite and ask what type they sell (and if they actually manufacturer it).

I can see the benefits of PEX if (cost of product and labor) if one was a major plumbing contractor but I don't see the benefits if one was to plumb his own home do to flow restrictions and cost of home run manifolds, etc.

Do not think SharkBite manufactures it , I think CASH-ACME makes it , SharkBite buys it from them and then markets it .

No idea of the cost of doing a whole house .

God bless
Wyr
 
I would use pex in my personal house if I ran only 1'' and 3/4''

only draw back, mice love to bite pex. if you have mice, you have been warned


Had no idea about the mice .

Do I need to get a house cat ?

God bless
Wyr
 
I guess the best approach would be to contact SharkBite and ask what type they sell (and if they actually manufacturer it).

I can see the benefits of PEX if (cost of product and labor) if one was a major plumbing contractor but I don't see the benefits if one was to plumb his own home do to flow restrictions and cost of home run manifolds, etc.

If you do it all in copper then you house is down without water for probably close to a week depending and you have to strip a lot of drywall. Might be a few days if its just a bi level. Anyone can run pex, but it takes a decent plumber to run copper and do a good job.
 
I would use pex in my personal house if I ran only 1'' and 3/4''

Trunk and branch?

Granted, but you are a professional and know the different systems and have the needed tools. Harry Homeowner doesn't. My first attempt was also SharkBite mainly because of the ready supply (Home Depot) and low cost of tools.

only draw back, mice love to bite pex. if you have mice, you have been warned

:eek: ...did not know that...

BTW, which system do you use?
 
If you do it all in copper then you house is down without water for probably close to a week depending and you have to strip a lot of drywall.

Might be a few days if its just a bi level. Anyone can run pex, but it takes a decent plumber to run copper and do a good job.

Agreed, but am concerned with copper being subject to corrosive (Ph) water damage over time and cost ($$$).

I guess I am just a PVC/CPVC junkie... :cool:
 

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