Proper Pressure Tank Mounting

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KULTULZ

Jack of All Trades ~ Master of None
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I have just purchased a new home and it has a well, my first experience with one.

The pressure tank was set on a couple of 6 X 6's, not secured.

Would it be proper to set the tank on a water heater stand with a drain pan (I understand that when gone bad they will leak like a defective WH) and safety strapped to a stud(s)? Also, a cut-off switch @ the valve to cut power if needed as the breaker box is in the garage above?

I am straightening up the area to add water treatment.

Pressure Tank_3.jpg
 
Would this also be a good time to upgrade to CSV? This is installed in the house and not the well head, correct?

csvtechinfo_2_1.jpg



Pump Info-

Well Pump Model.jpg
 
The way the tank is set up looks fine.
I would use cement blocks, the wood will rot over time and let the tank move.

If you do use a drip pan for the tank, make sure it has a drain that runs down and out of the house in as short a run as possible.
 
I don't see a CSV. Where do you think it is located?

:confused:

You realize I have no knowledge in this area?

I began to think that without a (an obvious) VFD that it would be a CVS (I have been reading but it is a little complicated to a layman).

Can you tell me what system I have and if a CVS upgrade is desirable? I have sent in a water sample to hopefully find out what filtration system I need (have talked with AQUASANA).

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated.

THANX for noticing my post.
 
A constant pressure valve is always an improvement to a system with a well and pump. Unless you have a constant pressure pump.

On the water treatment issue; you should get a water analysis done first. Then we can help you with your treatment.
 
A CSV could be installed in several places, even in the well where it can't be seen. The best way to tell if you have a CSV is to run something small like the kitchen sink faucet. While this faucet is running, if the pump builds pressure and shuts off, then you do not have a CSV. The CSV will keep the pump running when using small amounts of water, which is much better for the pump than cycling on and off. All "constant pressure valves" are not created equal. See this link from someone who has tried some of the off brand ones. CSV for me?
 
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A constant pressure valve is always an improvement to a system with a well and pump. Unless you have a constant pressure pump.

I showed the cover on the installed pump manual in an above post.

On the water treatment issue; you should get a water analysis done first. Then we can help you with your treatment.

The results just came in and I am talking with AQUASANA about a system. From what I have researched, they are about the best. Comments?
 
Never heard of them. I just checked out their site. I wouldn't pay $800.00 for that goofy looking whole house filter nor would I use any inline filter.

I saw your pump, it's not of the constant pressure variety, nor is it a top quality unit.
 
Never heard of them. I just checked out their site. I wouldn't pay $800.00 for that goofy looking whole house filter nor would I use any inline filter.

I saw your pump, it's not of the constant pressure variety, nor is it a top quality unit.

Figured that on the pump. Builders grade.

You say no inline filter? What other way is there to treat well water?

I now know I have no CSV. THANX for the tech tip. Does a home CSV mount @ the pump or pressure tank manifold?

Regarding sediment filters, should it be positioned before or after the pressure tank? Will the tank be damaged over time with unfiltered water as is a water heater?
 
There is no sediment in Well Water that the human eye can see. No inline filter is required. Period!

Have your water tested for PH, Iron, Sulphur, Hardness and Manganese (if prevalent in your area). Then you can figure out what kind of filter you need. These softener sales types have the entire public convinced that if you have well water you have all these nasties in your water. Not true. And a lot of city water comes from wells.
 
There is no sediment in Well Water that the human eye can see. No inline filter is required. Period!

Have your water tested for PH, Iron, Sulphur, Hardness and Manganese (if prevalent in your area). Then you can figure out what kind of filter you need.

pH 6.9 pH Units

Iron 0.271 mg/L

Sulfate 820.1 MG/l

Hardness 920 mg/L

Manganese ND

Magnesium 81.50 mg/L

Calcium 235.0 mg/L

National Testing Laboratories, LTD
Cleveland, OH
 
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The worst thing in your water is hardness. It's 54 grains hard. A standard softener couldn't keep up with normal daily usage. You would need a twin tank softener that backwashes one tank while the other is in use. You will also be using an awful lot of salt. I had 42 grain hard water at one house I lived in and it was horrendous. Fleck makes a very good head for operating a two tank unit.
 
Yes, a water softener using either sodium chloride (salt) or potassium chloride. Unless you believe that a magnet can realign the water molecules with the planets and magically remove hardness. There are a lot of those scams being pushed out there. Eco Water is the latest one on advertised on TV.
 
Unless you believe that a magnet can realign the water molecules with the planets and magically remove hardness. There are a lot of those scams being pushed out there. Eco Water is the latest one on advertised on TV.

:D

I almost fell for that one until I began to research differing methods... ;)
 
Good for you for doing the research, you saved yourself a lot of time and money, not to mention the grief.
 
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