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edrosnersrgmail.com

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I would like to install the shower valves so they are accessible from other side of the wall instead of the shower side. Does anyone make shower valves for that type of installation or does anyone have a method for installing them this way? The purpose is to do maintenance without removing shower tile or damaging a one-piece tub/shower unit.
 
Access is always a good thing but are you sure you are not overthinking it? When they make shower valves, they are designed so that you can replace cartridges from the front (just remove the cover plate). All long as you rough in your valve really well (If copper pipes, solder the pipes well and triple check for leaks before closing up wall). body of the valves should last over 40 years easily. The cartridges come straight out of the front of valves. I'm not a professional but I assume that all shower/tub installers just put a small amount of silicone or a single screw that holds the outer plate on that you remove the plate to access the cartridge. The body of the valves is just solid thick brass that should last many decades.
 
Having access to shower valves from another room is a dangerous thought. Just buy a quality valve from Moen or Delta, and your worries are gone.
 
Yeah I'm not sure if post realizes that the outer plate of a shower valve is a plate that is easily removed. Often, they are just lightly sitting on the tile or acrylic from a little silicone or a single screw.
 
RickFlorida said:
Access is always a good thing but are you sure you are not overthinking it? When they make shower valves, they are designed so that you can replace cartridges from the front (just remove the cover plate). All long as you rough in your valve really well (If copper pipes, solder the pipes well and triple check for leaks before closing up wall). body of the valves should last over 40 years easily. The cartridges come straight out of the front of valves. I'm not a professional but I assume that all shower/tub installers just put a small amount of silicone or a single screw that holds the outer plate on that you remove the plate to access the cartridge. The body of the valves is just solid thick brass that should last many decades
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I admit this is a bit extra/extreme but in the process of prepping our house for sale (we built it 30+ years ago) and replacing one, I realized what a risk it is to not have a better way. The shower valve in a tiled shower was also showing signs of needing replacement and I was really worried. There is also the concern that replacement parts will not always be available. Products change so fast. I will take your advice and first look into getting the most reliable valves from a major company. But I have had so many issues with plumbing that I am trying to make this build as maintainable as possible. Thanks
 
You can create an access panel behind the shower if you have the space and want to. Not necessarily needed but. Not a bad idea either.
 
havasu said:
I helped change a 54 year old cartridge on a Moen the other day. Damn shower works like new today.
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That helps with one concern. My other concern is access to piping. Previous house had CPVC which becomes brittle over the years and has created lawsuits. I am now in a temporary home and the copper is getting pin holes which was a problem in my first home after only a few years (county water had issues). Makes me wonder how long before PEX starts to show weaknesses.
 
So what you are doing is making the plumbing easily accessible when your plumbing goes "bad" in 40-50 years?

Damn, I don't even buy green bananas these days.

All water piping has its downfalls. CPVC will get brittle and crack on you. PVC is prohibited because it too will become brittle, especially when exposed to UV rays. Lead pipes will cause you to go crazy and give you cancer. Wood piping was great in the 1700's, but termites gave it a short shelf life. PEX is susceptible to being eaten by rats and/or mice. Thin wall copper is susceptible to pinhole leaks. Thick wall copper is my choice, but they all have their issues.
 
If you have 7.0-8.0ph water with a TDS of around 100-150 type L copper will last 100 + years unless it’s attacked by its environment.
 
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