Need help with boiler!!

[JohnCunningham]

My boiler recently started leaking and it is too cold outside to have no heat! My boiler is a bryant 234 c 6pw. The leak is coming out of where the motor connects the actual pump, through a little slot that looks like it is supposed to be there. I tried do DIY examine it and noticed a little flap like thing that pulled out, and exposed a little cavity with what looked like a wick for a tiki torch soaked in something, and I dont know what.. Please help!!!!

 

[johnjh2o]

The pump is a circulator. What make and model is it? Some can be repaired others need replacement. In ether case it is not that hard of a job.

John

 

[JohnCunningham]

circulator is a bell and gossett series #100 c59

 

[dantheACman]

My boiler recently started leaking and it is too cold outside to have no heat! My boiler is a bryant 234 c 6pw. The leak is coming out of where the motor connects the actual pump, through a little slot that looks like it is supposed to be there. I tried do DIY examine it and noticed a little flap like thing that pulled out, and exposed a little cavity with what looked like a wick for a tiki torch soaked in something, and I dont know what.. Please help!!!!

Your pump bearing seal went bad. Need to replace pump. You can get universal with no coupling. Just get same hp. Drain expansion tank. Many times after repair.

 

[dantheACman]

That pump can be repaired. Has a service tech. I just replace.

 

[johnjh2o]

There is a bearing assembly that is available for that B&G pump. It requires the system to be drained. Then refilled and vented. The assembly is replaced by removing four bolts that hold it in place. The new one is just bolted up in it's place using the new gasket provided with the new assembly. There is also a spring coupling between the motor and the bearing assembly that also needs to be disconnected a re-installed.

http://www.statesupply.com/skin/fro.../docs/bg-series-100_complete-repair-guide.pdf
John

 

[JohnCunningham]

I have never dealt with these systems before, can someone walk me through the whole process? and tell me exactly what parts to buy? How do I drain and refill? I am 100% ignorant with this

 

[johnjh2o]

John, if you don't have any experience with draining, refilling and venting a hot water system the best advice I could give you would be to have the repair done by a qualified heating contractor. Your dealing with some expensive equipment that by making a mistake with could cost you far more then the repair you need.

John

 

[JohnCunningham]

How much would this cost? I need to have it fixed ASAP and need to get quotes, just want a ball park. My boiler has 2 "zones", and I would like to know more about it, ie how to drain it, refill it, vent, or what ever is needed to be done every year.

 

[JohnCunningham]

I took some time and researched how to drain and refill and such, and just drained it. Took it apart and got the pump and circulator off, and instantly found my problem. The part that actually spins to move water had a crack in the housing. I looked online and found 2 items matching the specs, which should I buy?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/c/h...\/12,attr+rpm(text)=1725,attr+amps(text)=1.75

I will need to have this overnight shipped so quicker replies appreciated.

 

[johnjh2o]

The link I gave you shows you the part that you need. It's called a bearing assembly. If you go to a plumbing supply house and give them the make and model of your pump they will sell you the bearing assembly you need. You say you removed the circulator? There was no reason to have to remove it to make your repair. All that had to be removed was the motor and bearing assembly. Your making more work for yourself. As far as researching on how to drain and refill a heating system the only information you got had to be very basic. There are many different types of hot water heating systems and there are just as many different was to fill and vent them. With out having a full understanding of how they work my guess from reading your posts you may be in over your head.
At this point get the circulator repaired and if you have problems getting it working again I should be able to help you. ButI will need more information on the type system you have.

Good Luck John

 

[Beni]

For regular spacing heating the cast iron pump is fine. The bronze pump would be for potable water systems.

As John said the bearing assemble would get you running with less out of pocket. But if you want a new pump then the cheaper cast iron pump will be fine in a closed loop heating system.

 

[JohnCunningham]

To drain it, I hooked up a hose to the drain at the bottom of the boiler. I then ran the hose to a nearby shower, and opened the valve. Lots came out, but when it slowed to a trickle, I went to the highest radiator and starting unscrewing the bleed valves on all the radiators in the house. Starting from top to bottom, until it was empty. I then loosened the 4 large bolts holding the pump and circulator to the thing that goes inline of the pipes going to the boiler then out to the house. I then removed 4 smaller bolts to separate the circulator from the motor. Then I unhooked 2 springs and it was free.

To Refill, I an going to shut all the bleed valves, open the freshwater inlet, and wait for the pressure to reach 12 psi. Then I will go to the top radiator and bleed until waters present, then repeat on lower radiators, then fill again to obtain 12 psi.

Is this correct? Thank you for all the help. I ordered the red one, and had it overnight shipped. It will be here tomorrow morning hopefully.

 

[JohnCunningham]

For regular spacing heating the cast iron pump is fine. The bronze pump would be for potable water systems.

As John said the bearing assemble would get you running with less out of pocket. But if you want a new pump then the cheaper cast iron pump will be fine in a closed loop heating system.

What do you mean by "regular space heating" and "Potable" systems? My system contains 2 circulators, 5 actual cast iron radiators, and 5 things that are in housings that are only about 5 inches thick, maybe 1 1/2 foot long and 4 or 5 inches wide, exactly like a high performance cars heat exchanger. Then 4 baseboard radiators. One zone only has 1 cast iron radiator, inside one of our enclosed porches.

 

[Beni]

Space heating systems such as yours is, are closed loop hydronic systems. Meaning that no water is lost in the system and corrosion issues are relatively minor. You system is closed loop so cast iron is fine.

On the other hand domestic hot water systems and systems that use a water heater to heat "potable" water, That is water for drinking are generally open loop. Open loop systems are constantly heating fresh water. Water from the city main is high in free oxygen that in an open system will cause iron to corrode.

That is not a problem in a closed system as the water is not refreshed and the little bit of free oxygen quickly bonds with the iron and does not continue to do damage. For open loop systems the bronze pump is used as its not effected by the free oxygen in the water..

So short answer, Closed loop system, like your's, use iron pumps and open loop systems use the more expensive bronze pump that are not effected by free oxygen in the water.