Mystery Air in pipes on well system

[Patches]

Hi y’all! I will try to not write a book/will keep this as simple as possible.

We had our pressure tank replaced in October. Ever since we’ve had moderate air in the pipes when our water softener regenerates or softens. I tried removing the check valve at the T of the pressure tank and the pressure stays consistent when no water is used - google told me this would eliminate likelihood of a leak in the buried line.

We have tried temporarily bypassing the water softener but got constant/extreme air when doing so. We had our air softener replaced today and still getting air when it regenerates, so the plumber bypassed the new softener so it didn’t get damaged by the air and now we have excessive constant air in pipes again. He thinks maybe a bad check valve at the pump.

We are so ready to put this issue to rest. Any one have any thoughts on this?

 

[Valveman]

You probably have two check valve in the well. A bad check causes the pump to cycle when no taps are open, but doesn't add air. A hole in the pipe between two check valves is the most common cause of air.

 

[Ludington]

You probably have two check valve in the well. A bad check causes the pump to cycle when no taps are open, but doesn't add air. A hole in the pipe between two check valves is the most common cause of air.

That's a good nugget of information to keep in my back pocket. I love this site. All you experts and different situations.

 

[Patches]

Had a well guy out and he knew immediately what the problem was. Our previous pressure tank was an "air over water" system and we switched to a bladder pressure tank. He pulled out our drop pipes and had to add 2 check valves. Turns out there were no check valves in the first place! He added the check valves and boom, problem solved!

 

[Valveman]

It wasn't adding check valves that solved the problem but removing the bleeder orifice. A bleeder is a hole between two check valves that lets air in the system as needed with a hydro tank. The bleeder in the well needs to be removed when switching from a hydro tank to a diaphragm or bladder tank or air gets in the system. The only check valve needed is the one down on the pump. There must have been one there or you would not have gotten air but rather the pump just banging on and off even though no taps were open. Adding any other or extra check valve other than the one down on the pump will cause problems. It is not if but when you will start hearing and feeling a water hammer each time the pump starts, as that is caused by having more than one check valve in the system.

Now that you have a diaphragm tank you could easily add a Cycle Stop Valve and solve all the problems associated with a pump system except the water hammer that will happen because of too many check valves.

 

[1911smith]

Amazing detailed explanation of how your CSV works Valveman!

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Valveman, you've said before, many times that only one check valve....the one at the pump....should be used. That makes perfect sense to me with the experience I had that led me to find the CSV website. Over several months, I had noticed my electric bill had spiked about $40 higher than usual. This was because my well pump was running 24/7. The reason it was running 24/7 was because the check valve on the pump (which was the only check valve) had failed and the pump was running continuously pumping water that kept draining out of the pressure tank back down the pipe to the pump because the check valve had failed and was not preventing the back flow down from the pressure tank to the well. I'm NOT asking this sarcastically.....just want to understand the mechanics of what is happening......why do some well servicers or plumbers feel there needs to be multiple check valves? What is the thinking behind that? Hypothetically, what are multiple check valves doing that a single check valve is not? And could you also explain why multiple check valves can cause a water hammer. Thanks.