My first soldering job - will it leak?

[cmorrison]

I just finished my first ever soldering job. My hot water tank ate itself so I installed a new Rinnai tankless one. This required a reconfiguration of existing piping. I wanted to do it right, so I used solder joints versus push-on fittings.

I practiced on a few scraps until it looked like I had it right. But my questions are:

1) None of my almost 20 joints are leaking. If they are not leaking now, can they start at some point? The tank is in a closet and it could be months before anyone would notice a pinhole leak.

I was concerned about a couple of joints. For some reason, the HOT line would not stopping dripping water. I opened all HOT taps to release suction and even after overnight if you jiggled the pipe, a couple of drops of water would come out. Did my best to dry it up, but there were still a few drips. I did use MAPP and so far there are no leaks on it.

2) How long until the Flux taste goes away. I used Oatey No. 95. And probably too much solder.

I did take a nice long hot shower last night and didn't run out of hot water, so that is a big plus.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[IFIXH20]

Chris , sounds like you did a great job. i would recommend that you clean all solder joints to get rid of flux. flux can damage the pipe over time. as far as leaks ,if a joint is not solder completely it can leak after time. when soldering use just enough flux and solder. the amount of solder used is equal to pipe size.(1/2 solder -- 1/2 pipe)

 

[Another-Plumber]

more than the solder joints, i would we worried if it was done to code, esp if its in a closet, YIKES

 

[cmorrison]

Chris , sounds like you did a great job. i would recommend that you clean all solder joints to get rid of flux.

How would I clean the joints? I stubbed the whole thing up and then went around and soldered it.

more than the solder joints, i would we worried if it was done to code, esp if its in a closet, YIKES

No codes here. Well, at least no inspectors.

It just replaced the old tank. It is not in a bedroom closet. More of a second mechanical room, only smaller. All clearances are easily met and it is vented properly to the outside.

 

[havasu]

To clean the flux, wipe the joint down with a rag immediately after soldering. It makes for a pretty finish as well.

 

[DFBonnett]

OP,
Can they start leaking? Yes, but in all likelyhood, if they don't start leaking immediately they almost never do. That has been my experience.
FWIW
YMMV

 

[cmorrison]

The taste has gone away. Glad because I was reading that sometimes it takes weeks.

Redid the gas piping today. All I had in the closet was a 1/2" line and the Rinnai calls for a minimum of 3/4". So today I ran a new 3/4".

I really don't know why the plumbers that did my house did what they did. For example in my main mechanical room, they came in with a 1.25" which is the main feed for the house. But as soon as it got in, they stepped it down to a 1" and fed the 1st furnace with a 1/2" line. But then stepped it down again to a 3/4" and fed the 2nd furnace with a 1/2" line. And then stepped it down again to a 1/2" which ends the run. And they did not put a drip leg on any of them.

But if you only need 1/2" line feeding the appliances, why not just use 1x1x1/2" reducing Tees at each appliance. Why bother stepping it down. Did they really save that much money vs. running 1" that extra 10 feet?

Anyway, thanks for the replies.

 

[mccmech]

The taste has gone away. Glad because I was reading that sometimes it takes weeks.

Redid the gas piping today. All I had in the closet was a 1/2" line and the Rinnai calls for a minimum of 3/4". So today I ran a new 3/4".

I really don't know why the plumbers that did my house did what they did. For example in my main mechanical room, they came in with a 1.25" which is the main feed for the house. But as soon as it got in, they stepped it down to a 1" and fed the 1st furnace with a 1/2" line. But then stepped it down again to a 3/4" and fed the 2nd furnace with a 1/2" line. And then stepped it down again to a 1/2" which ends the run. And they did not put a drip leg on any of them.

But if you only need 1/2" line feeding the appliances, why not just use 1x1x1/2" reducing Tees at each appliance. Why bother stepping it down. Did they really save that much money vs. running 1" that extra 10 feet?

Anyway, thanks for the replies.

Spoken like a true homeowner! You, as the home buyer/owner only deal with the finished product. We, as tradesmen, have to compete against each other when bidding the jobs that ultimately create your home. Homes are plumber per code, and material costs add up over the course of many homes. Put it this way, let's assume you work an extra 15minute a day at your job. Well, since you're there anyway and it's only 15 minutes, why can't you just work that for free. NO, you expect to be compensated to cover YOUR costs. By the same token, a plumbing contractor is looking out for his/her COSTS. So if only a certain size of material is needed to a point, then a reduced size, meaning reduced cost, is acceptable and proper, why should our trade have to make less $ than you expect/demand your employer to pay you?

 

[LiQuId]

If it doesnt leak right away it likely wont leak. After soldering myself I "stress test" the piping by smacking it around witht the rubber handle of my hammer ( not overly hard ) the idea is to put more stress on the pipe and joints then they could ever see in service. If it doesnt leak then then I assure that it never will. The dripping water, Try a peice of bread ( must be white bread ) balled up and without the crust placed inside the pipe, it will stop the water long enough to soldier and can then either be shot out of the pipe by oening the valve or just left on its own will break down and dissapate.

 

[cmorrison]

By the same token, a plumbing contractor is looking out for his/her COSTS. So if only a certain size of material is needed to a point, then a reduced size, meaning reduced cost, is acceptable and proper, why should our trade have to make less $ than you expect/demand your employer to pay you?

You shouldn't! But sometimes chasing nickles allows dollars to get away.

In my case from above, the three appliances are side by side, so less than 5 feet apart. Based on prices from my local Lowe's Depot (yes I know trades pricing is different), a 10' section of 1" is 19.67, of 3/4" is 12.92 and 1/2" is 10.89. So running that 5' section of 3/4" vs. the 1" saved them .5(19.67-12.92) = $3.38. Yes a savings if added up over a bunch of jobs would be substantial. But you still need to add in a reducer fitting for $4.87. And add in a short 1" nipple that you had to spend time cutting and threading and the time to install the nipple and reducer. (The time to install the pipe is the same). So instead of saving $3.38, you actually go in the hole by at least $1.49. Added up over a year could be substantial as well.

In this case, the "professional" plumber also saved money by not installed the code required drip legs and instead hooked the appliance hose directly to the bottom of the 1/2" drop. I have long since fixed that.

 

[HoffmannFamilyPlumbing]

You shouldn't! But sometimes chasing nickles allows dollars to get away.

In my case from above, the three appliances are side by side, so less than 5 feet apart. Based on prices from my local Lowe's Depot (yes I know trades pricing is different), a 10' section of 1" is 19.67, of 3/4" is 12.92 and 1/2" is 10.89. So running that 5' section of 3/4" vs. the 1" saved them .5(19.67-12.92) = $3.38. Yes a savings if added up over a bunch of jobs would be substantial. But you still need to add in a reducer fitting for $4.87. And add in a short 1" nipple that you had to spend time cutting and threading and the time to install the nipple and reducer. (The time to install the pipe is the same). So instead of saving $3.38, you actually go in the hole by at least $1.49. Added up over a year could be substantial as well.

In this case, the "professional" plumber also saved money by not installed the code required drip legs and instead hooked the appliance hose directly to the bottom of the 1/2" drop. I have long since fixed that.

Drip legs, although a good practice, are not actually a code requirement, as far as I know.

 

[LiQuId]

Drip legs, although a good practice, are not actually a code requirement, as far as I know.

Depends on your local code I suppose. I can say that Anywhere in canada they are absolutelly required by our Gas code. I would be suprised if they were not required due to the simplicity of installation and the effectiveness of them in not having to dissasemble your burner tray on your boiler because a little spec of old dope or dust clogged an orifice.