leaking pipe under the wash basin.........

[havasu]

This is a simple fix, provided the darn cat moves so you can do the work! First of all, the vertical drain pipe needs to be aligned perfectly in order to stop the leak. Is it possible the wash basin has moved forward as little as an inch? If so, push it back, and it will align up correctly again. If not, you may have to play with your swiveling p trap in order to make the pipe align exactly. Then remove the steel collar and re-install.

 

[Windy]

Yes, I am positive the basin has been moved. It is just inches from the washing machine and on rare occasion the washer is off balance and 'takes a walk' and bumps into the basin, pushing it. That is what happened to cause this leak. You lost me at the "swiveling P trap".

 

[havasu]

The very lowest portion of the white pipe looks like a "U". this is your trap, and if you loosen both sides, it will adjust to accommodate the various configurations needed. Since you only need to push back the basin, you won't need to touch this.

 

[Windy]

So you don't think there is any cracked pipe that needs to be replaced?

 

[havasu]

I don't believe so. You may have deformed the vertical pipe leading to the wash basin, or possible the .25 cent plastic sleeve at the top of the vertical pipe, but it just might be a case of loosening up the metal collar at the top, pushing the basin back, and tightening up the metal collar.

 

[IFIXH20]

Your flange tailpiece (the pipe that is connected to the basin) is broken and need replace. Like Havasu said, remove the p- trap & chrome nut , replaced the flange tailpiece and washer.

 

[havasu]

Your flange tailpiece (the pipe that is connected to the basin) is broken and need replace. Like Havasu said, remove the p- trap & chrome nut , replaced the flange tailpiece and washer.

IFIX is right. I believe the tailpiece is probably broken. I passed by them at the store today and the parts will set you back about $4.00.

 

[Windy]

Can you guys somehow copy my picture and circle what you are talking about? Do you mean where the pipe enters the bottom of the wash basin?

 

[IFIXH20]

Replace the pipe circled in red (the white plastic pipe)

 

[Windy]

Thank you. So I just unscrew those two 'nuts' holding that pipe in, put a new piece of pipe in, then tighten those 'nuts'?

 

[Solid]

Windy, I would pick up some plumbing dope while you're at the home improvement store. It really helps lubricate the threads on those fittings. Just unscrew the two fittings on that tailpiece and bring it with you to the store so you get the right size. You lucked out, this is an easy fix!

 

[KULTULZ]

Windy, I would pick up some plumbing dope...

...while you're at the home improvement store.

Gee...

I would love to help her if she comes in but I am no dope...

 

[johnjh2o]

Windy, I would pick up some plumbing dope while you're at the home improvement store. It really helps lubricate the threads on those fittings. Just unscrew the two fittings on that tailpiece and bring it with you to the store so you get the right size. You lucked out, this is an easy fix!

To each his own. But in 50 years I have never used or seen a need to use pipe dope on a slip joint.

John

 

[stevemachine]

To each his own. But in 50 years I have never used or seen a need to use pipe dope on a slip joint.

John

I agree with John. But It shouldn't do any harm by any means.

 

[Windy]

Windy, I would pick up some plumbing dope while you're at the home improvement store. It really helps lubricate the threads on those fittings. Just unscrew the two fittings on that tailpiece and bring it with you to the store so you get the right size. You lucked out, this is an easy fix!

You don't know me very well............

To each his own. But in 50 years I have never used or seen a need to use pipe dope on a slip joint.

John

See above comment.......LOL

 

[phishfood]

I always use pipe dope on the ground joint connection. My day job company requires that it be used on the slip joints as well.

I can't say that I have ever seen a leak on a slip joint that I thought pipe dope would have prevented. But I have seen guys who "bucked the system" and not used dope on the ground joint have the occasional leaks, whereas the guys who do use it almost never have a leak.

 

[havasu]

I would use Rectorseal, but again, I use this on most everything!

 

[johnjh2o]

I just don't see the need for it. Slip joints are sealed by the washer not the threads.

John

 

[stevemachine]

I always use pipe dope on the ground joint connection. My day job company requires that it be used on the slip joints as well.

I can't say that I have ever seen a leak on a slip joint that I thought pipe dope would have prevented. But I have seen guys who "bucked the system" and not used dope on the ground joint have the occasional leaks, whereas the guys who do use it almost never have a leak.

I suppose if you're doing a commercial job that's big and you're putting together 150 union p traps it may be worth the extra 4 seconds it takes to dope. Rather than fetching a bucket to fix 5-6 p traps that are leaky. i know ive have the pvc ones leak a few times on me (grey pvc) but I just had to tighten them more and it was good. I've never doped one and never had a leak but each to their own. I don't see the harm in doing it at all.

 

[Solid]

Gee...

I would love to help her if she comes in but I am no dope...

I'm sorry KULTULZ - did I use the wrong terminology here? I'm confused? I was told (by a licensed plumber in my area) to use a little bit of plumbing dope on the threads of these fittings - not really to create a seal, but to lubricate the threads, and make it easier to tighten. When I tighten these threaded connections 'dry', it tends to bind up, and is difficult to fully tighten. If you add a very small amount of dope on the threads, it is smooth as silk. Is this wrong? Sorry if I gave Windy bad advice.