Leaking Pipe from Water Pump

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

goofyboson

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2024
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Rensselaer NY
I’ve got a leak at the check valve coming in from my pump before the tank, the threads seem rusted out near the bottom and it leaks every time it pressurized the tank. It looks like an old pipe coming through the basement wall. Does anyone have any diagnostic or repair tips?IMG_1867.jpeg
 
You need to be prepared for a rather major repair. That appears to be a galvanized pipe imbedded in the concrete wall. You MIGHT be able to cut the threads off and if there is enough room between the pipe and the back wall, thread some new threads on the remaining pipe stub. But that pipe wall may very well be so thin that it will break should you try to thread it.

The best fix, and probably the only real fix, would be to replace that pipe through the concrete wall. Any other fix won't be any better than the 5-gallon bucket "fix" you currently have, I'm afraid.
 
Looks like it the galvanized barbed male leaking at the check valve. Replace both with brass and use two hose clamps 180° opposite each other.
 
It sounds like the threads on your check valve are rusted and that's causing the leak when your pump pressurizes the tank. Since the pipe looks old, the rust could have weakened the connection. To fix it, you may need to replace the check valve or the section of the pipe that's damaged. First, turn off the pump and drain the water. Then, remove the valve and inspect the threads to see if they’re salvageable or if replacement is necessary. If it's the pipe coming through the wall that's rusted, you might need to replace that part as well. It’s also a good idea to use pipe tape or thread sealant when installing new parts to prevent future leaks.
 
It looks like poly coming through the wall, and it will last forever if you take care of it! I would take my Sawzall and cut the check valve in 2, then take the clamps off and carefully warm the poly with a hair dryer. Then you can get the barbed fitting out of the poly, then you can replace the check valve and barbed fitting with somethin better quality, and it should be good for another 50 years.
 
After blowing up the picture, it looks like GReynolds929 and RS are correct. That doesn't appear to a galvanized pipe imbedded in the wall, but a poly pipe that has a galvanized barbed male connector. But I believe the check valve is brass. As GReynolds929 suggested, replacing the galvanized barbed male connector with a brass barbed male connector would be the best approach. Your issue is that you will need to cut the poly pipe back a bit to get to good poly pipe which will shorten that horizontal run. And with no unions in that piping, the existing piping was apparently screwed together and the barbed fitting then inserted into the poly pipe. You may want to consider adding a union in the vertical line and re-piping the copper above it so the piping and check valve can be assembled easier.
 
RS provides a good repair technique ..... but I would add that the check valve above ground as shown is not needed. The system should only have one check valve in the well at the submersible pump.
All the above ground check valve can do is hide leaks or issues down in the well ...... and might in some cases create water hammer in the system.
I also had an above ground check valve for decades until "Valveman" explained how a well system works.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top