Laundry sink

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Tom

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Hi, I'm seeking some general info for my assurance before proceeding with the following:
This is the first house; a six year old townhouse in Delaware County, PA; that does not have an utility (or laundry) sink, which brings up question # 1. Is there a difference? Not having one drive us crazy always have to clean up in the kitchen sink and often when she's getting dinner. See attached photo for current configuration.

Thus my quest. Initially when I looked at how high the builder plumbed in the existing drain, there was no way I could drain a sink without using a grey water pump, which I had all drawn up to do, when a light bulb went on and I thought gee let's just cut out the existing fittings and replace with new line up for drainage of the sink. The fittings only cost about $60, $80 if I have to get a new 10' section of 4" PVC. Thank heaven they left enough space on the bottom for the flange of the new fitting to fit.
It's a two story townhouse which is really 3 if you count the basement which is on ground level in the front of the house with garage. With research, I notice all the codes say that there is to be a clean out where the stand pipe goes under slab and into the sewer system. Which brings up question #2. Does that mean in that general vicinity or the clean out to be the very last fitting? If the last fitting the builder has it incorrect and see fig 1, which I was considering doing, would also be incorrect? Fig 3 would seem to be the best way to go?

The third question is do I need the repair coupling or can I just move the offset elbows up some to connect directly to the 3" piping? ie Can each fitting give a little flange space to allow for this final connection to the 3"
Thanks for any answers. Tom

Fig's are autocad dwg's tried to convert to jpg - ran out of time. Maybe you can make sense of info I'm after. THANKS Tom

IMG_4430.jpg

Slide1.JPG
 
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The clean out does not have to be the last fitting. I noticed that the 2" washer drain offsets down at a 45 deg. angle before entering the stack. Look behind the washer to see if it has an auto-vent (AAV).
I would start at the bottom and cut as close to the last 4" hub as possible themn rebuild with the appropriate fittings, cleanout tee, etc. almost copying what is there but with the addition of another tee for the laundry tray/tub.
With a soil stack, most codes do not allow AAVs on drains that connect directly to the stack. I doubt that you would be willing to cut out the walls to run conventional vents up to the roof so most DIYers prefer having an AAV as opposed to having no vent at all.
With the main entrance to the house being on the ground floor your house is considered a 3 story by plumbing standards and my local codes forbid AAVs for that reason also.
I doubt that the "Code Police" will come kicking down your door and rip out all of your plumbing, we just refer to the plumbing codes because they are there for good reasons.
 
I copied Acad dwg over to Power Point and then was able to save as a jpg and then with a revision attached same. See above. The one with the 45 degree drain is fig 1. Caduceus, there is an air break where the pumped drain hose goes into the drain at the square box above the washer much the same as in most homes dumps into a sink. The drain line is white and hidden somewhat behind the black washer hose The standard hose is about 1" or so into a 2" line, allowing an air break. This is the main and only drain stack for the entire house and it is properly vented. Is there any difference between a laundry and utility sink? Question 2 you answered as it does not have to be the very last. I'll probably use fig 3 configuration regardless with the 1/4" per foot pitch rather than the 45 unless I hear a reason here as to I should not. Third question: Does this require the 3" repair coupling or can I get enough from each flange to connect the 3" line directly into the final offset fitting as I build up?
 
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Did you ever plumb in the laundry sink yet? If so post a photos of the set up.
 

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