Kitchen faucet/sink noises.

[andy31]

Hello,

I installed a new kitchen faucet (a Moen) the other day, and all went very smoothly. No leaks, it works great.

I have a dishwasher and a laundry machine (washer/dryer) in my kitchen, hooked up to my water lines beneath the kitchen sink. They've always been attached, even with my old faucet.

So...

1) When my washer/dryer and dishwasher go into certain modes, my new faucet rattles noisily, then stops. It rattles and sounds like a machine gun for a couple seconds.

2) My faucet isn't leaking or dripping anywhere, but my sink makes dripping sounds as if the faucet's dripping into it. I look into the drain with a flashlight, and I see water in there and, as I hear the drip, I see water (from somewhere) dripping into the water sitting in there. Don't know where this water's dripping from, but it's not the new faucet.

Any ideas on one or both of these noises?

Huge thanks,
Andy

 

[Mr_David]

Make sure the stop valves under the sink are open all the way.
If you only partially open them, especially the hot which is probably a dual stop connected to both the sink and dishwasher, the washer could be vibrating as the water passes by it.

 

[andy31]

Thanks for your reply.

By "stop valves," do you mean that I should open the hot and cold water-intake knobs/valves (?) beneath the sink all the way? Currently, I have full pressure in my sink, but they're only open a turn and a half each, so I didn't think I needed to open them more.

Is there a disadvantage of opening these valves all the way (or a couple turns more)? Possible leakage somewhere?

Thank you.

 

[andy31]

I opened the water-inlet valves another turn or so and ran a load of clothes in the W/D: no rattling/machine-gun sounds. Seems like that fixed it. THANKS! Now if only I could figure out that dripping sound in my kitchen sink....

Wonder if I need to replace or seal the sink basket.

 

[Mr_David]

The stop valve under the sink should be full open then maybe turned back in one turn. Old stop valves may leak when you turn them. If they don't turn they aren't much use when you need them.

Glad to hear that it helped and that you came back to let us know.
Did you fix the leak/drip noise

 

[Fansplumbing]

Sounds like the leak/drip noise could be your dishwasher line coming into your sink drain. Do you have a tailpiece with a drain pipe coming in from your dishwasher? Make sure the flexible line coming from the dishwasher is looped and and attached to the back of your cabinet about as high as you can get it. If this line isn't attached to the cabinet it could be holding water in it which would slowly (think drop by drop) drain back into the tailpiece.

 

[andy31]

Don't know if my stop valves are open fully minus one turn, but they're significantly more open than they'd been. Again, thanks.

I do, as a matter of fact, have a dishwasher connection, and it's not all that high. Not sure how water could drip from down (the bottom of the hose) to up (the sink drain where it's connected), especially when the dishwasher's not on, but you may have something there. I'll look to secure the peak of the hose as high as I can get it without straining it.

Thanks to you all,
Andy

 

[Mr_David]

Some areas require an air gap on the dishwasher drain hose but if you don't have one the it is ussually required that it is installed as Fansplumbing had mentioned.
Do a google image search for dishwasher drain lines and air gaps. I'm sure there are plenty of pictures to look at.

Here's a couple examples

 

[tigeorges0007]

a leak/drip noise coming from my kitchen sink and no water is dripping anywhere? can you tell me why or is my reverse atmosis is acting?

 

[havasu]

From what I remember, R/O systems continually purge water so what you are hearing is normal. I'm sure in a bit, an expert in this field will give you more information.

 

[PioneerPlumber]

A reverse osmosis system has a check valve after the membrane. This means you have two sides to the system with potentially two different pressures. Water will continually pass through the semipermeable membrane drop by drip until the tank is full.
The membrane is separating the water creating product/pure water to be stored in the tank and waste water which carries the viruses and bacteria to the drain.
If the pressure on the product side of the membrane (downstream of the check valve) is lower than the incoming pressure, it will make water. Once the product side is equal to the supply pressure, the system shuts down and no water will run to the drain.
Each RO has an automatic shut off valve. This is no more than a diaphragm that has the supply water passing through one side and the product side on the other. Once the product side equals the supply pressure, the diaphragm closes the passage of supply water and the system will stop making water. (water will stop flowing to the drain)
You should have a saddle connection on the sink drain piping that the RO drain connects to. Depending on the location, you may be hearing the water drip into the standing p-trap water.
You may also be hearing it pass through an air gap fitting on your faucet. Or both. You may even hear this dripping at night as the pressure increases on the supply side and the system starts to make water again.

Sounds to me like you need to relocate the saddle or close the basket strainer on your sink to muffle the noise.

 

[reedplumber]

Always remember that for every gallon of r/o water produced your unit probably scraps up to 3 gallons so that noise is gonna be there, my r/o unit at the house does the same thing