Sorry was an iPad photo. I keep a stick of the putty at home for emergencies.
Jacuzzi - Slow Leak #2 - Looking for an external sealant.
- Thread starter celife
- Start date
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To share an update since last posting...
I was able to find a replacement for the assembly that's leaking:
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Heater-Union-Split-Nut-Assembly---2-P797C717.aspx
I'm waiting for it to arrive.
I was going to hire someone to install it but I realized that was primarily because I didn't have the right tools to do it myself. So I ordered these groove joint pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037JGP1O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I was able to find a replacement for the assembly that's leaking:
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Heater-Union-Split-Nut-Assembly---2-P797C717.aspx
I'm waiting for it to arrive.
I was going to hire someone to install it but I realized that was primarily because I didn't have the right tools to do it myself. So I ordered these groove joint pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037JGP1O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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Glad to hear you found what you needed. Keep us informed on the progress please!
I will keep everyone updated as this story progresses. Hopefully there will be a happy ending to it all within the next week or so.
By the way, I'm wondering if I should use Leslie's Pool & Spa Lube on the components of this assembly when I install it. Or would that just be overkill?
By the way, I'm wondering if I should use Leslie's Pool & Spa Lube on the components of this assembly when I install it. Or would that just be overkill?
Nope, not an overkill at all. The lube allows connections to be tighter than without using it. Just apply a light film on the sealing edges.
Excellent. I saw how the lube fixed the seal around my filter cartridge but my mind still has resistance to the idea of a lube making a connection tighter since I'm used to lubrication making things looser. But this particular lube is pretty thick and so far (with my filter cartridge) has created a water tight seal! So i'll definitely use it when I install this new part...thanks!
As I approach this replacement, I have one lingering concern: If I loosen the black union that is now conjoined to the white piece to its right with JB Weld WaterWeld, which will give? The WaterWeld or the white piece? In other words, I could crack the white piece while loosening the black piece, which could damage the area further. Any thoughts on this issue?
Also, can anyone tell from looking at the attached image and the replacement part at http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Heater-Union-Split-Nut-Assembly---2-P797C717.aspx if I should also purchase PVC Primer & PVC Cement...or should that be unnecessary to replace this part?
Also, can anyone tell from looking at the attached image and the replacement part at http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Heater-Union-Split-Nut-Assembly---2-P797C717.aspx if I should also purchase PVC Primer & PVC Cement...or should that be unnecessary to replace this part?
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In addition to the questions in my prior post, I have another concern. If I remove the old part (http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Heater-Union-Split-Nut-Assembly---2-P797C717.aspx) will the pipes to the right of that section "give" enough so that there will be space to remove the old part and insert the new part?
That is hard to tell just based on the pictures, but I do believe it will be a tight fit.
It looks to me like the white part of the union is fine. It still has threads and an o-ring should seal it. I think the bad part is your black union nut. I would loosen it enough to cut it out of there and put the new split nut on, lube it up a bit and tighten it. That should stop the leak if the old nut is cracked. I believe it is, because there is a lot of meat in the white part but not so much in the nut. Make sure the o-ring stays in it's groove.
The only problem I see is that maybe the threads are not compatible.
The only problem I see is that maybe the threads are not compatible.
All's well that ends well. During the fix, I noticed the assembly to the left had a deteriorated gasket, so I used my new assembly's gasket on that side even though it wasn't yet leaking. I then cut out the assembly on the right using a wire cable (on the pipe) and a mini hacksaw (on the assembly which was fused by JB Weld Waterweld). I inserted a 2" Fernco flexible coupling on the right side and everything has been holding tight for a day and a half. Feels good to be done. Thanks to all for your help along the way!
I'm not sure how aggressive Bromine is if you use it, but if you use chlorine, that Fernco coupling isn't going to like it.
Although any chlorine will reduce the life of any metals, I would just make sure the clamps are stainless steel, and treat it similar to any marine application where if it is possible to use two clamps on each side, rather than just one.
Celife, it has been a pleasure to help you. Thank you for the follow up and please don't hesitate to pop in here to say hello, anytime!
Celife, it has been a pleasure to help you. Thank you for the follow up and please don't hesitate to pop in here to say hello, anytime!
Thanks for your advice, havasu. Unfortunately I only had room for one clamp on each side but will keep your guidance in mind in case I replace this Fernco in the future. Yes, I have your site bookmarked and plan to revisit since I'm committed to more D.I.Y. projects. I'm attaching the "finished fix" of my Jacuzzi situation, though of course with an old Jacuzzi, nothing is ever truly finished! 
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