Is it safe to use a PVC trap adapter to refit my Overflow to my Tub

[amodoko]

Hi, I am replacing a tub and seriously need your help. When I removed the tub, I found the drain and overflow were cemented in like this:

http://www.houserepairtalk.com/atta...ew-tub-old-drain-overflow-please-img_0982.jpg

After doing some measurements, I think the drain will actually fit the tub okay, but the overflow is too long and so I have to shorten it.

I have heard people cut PVC, then use a trap adapter along with PVC primer and cement, and reattach PVC for things in plumbing. I ended up cutting the overflow off the vertical PVC in the picture to shorten the PVC and then I can reattach the overflow to it with a trap adapter. Is this process safe to do for an overflow? Is it susceptible to leaking? The only reason I am even considering this is because the overflow will rarely have water in it, so I thought this would be safe.

If it isn't safe, then I will dig out the cement and install a new one. Even though it isn't expensive to do this (seems like you can buy a drain and overflow for $20 at Lowes), I figured if my current plumbing doesn't have any leaks... why disturb it by installing a new one that could have leaks (you know, sometimes when installing new plumbing you have to test it out to make sure there are no leaks, and sometimes there are leaks due to poor connections, etc).

Thanks, I really need to know if using a trap adapter is safe or not, since last thing I want to do is have to remove a tub due to leaks. And if it is recommended to buy a new drain and overflow, can you tell me why? Thanks

 

[LiQuId]

the plumber in me cringes at the thought... it would be in a non accessiblle location so as far as code goes you'd be hooped.... "would it leak" .... well likely not but why not use a MJ instead? it would be preferred over a trap adaptor and would pass code ( mechanical joint abs to abs would work )

 

[phishfood]

If the only problem is the overflow is to high, can't you just use a coupling to shorten the overflow riser?

Liquid, Florida code does not allow the slip joint connection that one usually sees with trap adaptors, but I have seen trap adaptors with solvent weld connections, which I THINK amodoko was referring to. Though I don't know off the top of my head if tubular plastic is allowed in concealed locations.

 

[LiQuId]

We change slip joint on trap addaptors often enough that I could see why some states wouldnt allow them . Here in canada we are allowed to use them but only in accessiblle locations wherer they will be noticed should they develop a leak ( like kitchen cabinet )

I was thinking about the coupling... i assumed the OP saw reason why it couldnt be done, looking at the picture again I would think this would be the best solution.

 

[amodoko]

Hey, thanks for the replies guys. Yes, you are right, a coupler is the better solution. I am not too familiar with plumbing and thought that a trap adapter with pvc cement would work, but a coupler is better.

But anyways, I tried a fitting for the tub that will be put in and noticed the drain and overflow do not line up. I will have to dig out the cement patch now to adjust the drain and overflow, so at this point, shouldn't I just buy a new pvc drain and overflow while I'm down there? (In contrast to just readjusting the old drain and overflow and coupling the overflow).

Here, at Lowe's they sell a new tub drain kit for $20, so that would be worth it I would think. But if disturbing the original connections is a bad thing, then I will just leave it alone... readjust the alignment, and couple the overlow to fit.

What do you guys think? Readjust and use a coupler, or take out old drain and overflow and install another one from Lowe's for $20. I'm on a budget, but am willing to pay more to prevent leaks. Thanks for any advice... and yes, as you can tell, I am a novice when it comes to plumbing

 

[johnjh2o]

If your saying the tub shoe doesn't line up then you will have to adjust the position of the trap as well. It's very rare that you can replace a tub with out having to change the trap location.

John

 

[amodoko]

Yes, you are right, the tub shoe does not line up. I will have to get a new drain and overflow and then adjust the trap. Is there anything wrong with getting a basic drain and overflow kit like this:

Shop Keeney Mfg. Co. Polished Chrome Bath Drain Triplever at Lowes.com

And once again, this is a very basic question... but do these drain and overflow kits come assembled? I'm assuming they don't, which leads to my next question...When attaching these joints in the kit do I attach each part with PVC primer and cement?

Thanks a bunch... and yes I'm an idiot with plumbing and that is why I need your guys' help thanks so much

 

[johnjh2o]

The waste and overflow you are referring to is assembled with slip nuts and washers. The same type connections you see under your kitchen sink.

John

 

[amodoko]

Okay cool, so no pvc cement, primer, adhesive, or tape is required? I don't need any additional sealing mechanisms besides what is included in the kit?

 

[phishfood]

The drain kit you linked to is a tubular kit, and almost certainly uses compression joints. These are specifically disallowed under the code that I deal with.

It is a little more tricky to deal with, but a Schedule 40 IPS drain kit with solvent weld connections is the best long term option.

 

[LiQuId]

where i am as well this kit would fail code.. a solvent welded waste and overflow is the best way to be sure of no leaks.

abs, glue both end of pipe and fitting to be glued into, assemble and give a small twist.

Pvc. prime both pipe and fitting and shortly after glue both and then assemble , again with a small twist, hold in position for 1 minute. ( pvc fittings will press themselves apart if you dont hold them secure for a minute while the glue sets. )

 

[amodoko]

Okay guys, thanks so much. I will go and get the pvc setup from Lowe's tomorrow and get the primer and cement. I will show you my set up just before I install it. I really appreciate the help. It means a ton to me.