How to replace a circa 1970 shower drain that is STUCK!

[LolaEliz]

I posted this using google passwords, then opened this account. So I'm reposting it here, so I only have one account.

I am replacing the shower pan because it's cracked. I googled and it seems there are drains with a metal thing you twist to remove and drains with a black rubber thing you drill holes it to loosen it, then pull it out with needle nose pliers.

I tried drilling, but it appears the stuff that looks like putty (because it's so uneven) is metal. (the chards from drilling were silver / grey. (my dad liked to over-secure things. could be some kind of liquid nails.)

There doesn't appear to be any way to unscrew it (if it's a screw-off flange) without removing what looks like the grey / metal goop.

I also saw a googled post saying to cut through the pipe with a dremmel. I'm afraid the pipe will then be too short, so I'll wait for more advise, if that's the way to go.

I thought about cutting around the drain and removing the shower pan so I can look from underneath. The shower pan I believe is set in cement (crumbled cement, hence the crack), so I'm not sure what I'll get once that's attempted.

Here is a picture of the drain. Thank you in advance! (I sprayed WD-40, that's the liquid in the picture. And the rag is there, I took it out for the picture so you could see all the edges.)

 

[GReynolds929]

The pipe needs to be cut, and a new drain and flange will be installed on the new pan. Slab or crawlspace?

 

[LolaEliz]

The pipe needs to be cut, and a new drain and flange will be installed on the new pan. Slab or crawlspace?

 

[LolaEliz]

Thank you! It's a second floor bathroom. Would it be right to cut it approx 1/8" down from the top of the pipe? I want there to be enough pipe for the new drain to connect too. Last question: The shower pan comes with a pvc drain. Wouldn't a brass one be better? I mean does plastic hold up over time?
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[Jim Jensen]

PVC should last longer than you, or the next owner will be alive......aside from being exposed to unusual SUNLIGHT (uv rays deteriorate PVC)

 

[LolaEliz]

PVC should last longer than you, or the next owner will be alive......aside from being exposed to unusual SUNLIGHT (uv rays deteriorate PVC)

Good to know, thanks! Tomorrow I will be cutting out the drain and prying the shower pan out.

 

[CT-18]

If you are going to demo the pan and start over, cut a larger circle around the drain and get the pan out of there. That may give you access from the side to undo the nut holding it to the pan from the underneath

 

[LolaEliz]

Thanks everyone for helping me! I got the shower pan out by drilling through the pipe. Now the pipe is a little shorter, and a new problem, the new pan doesn't naturally center over the drain, even though both are listed as 32" wide.

I lost 1/8" of pipe height, so it now sits 1/4" below the plywood sub floor. Looks like the subfloor rose a little at the seam where the beam is. It's a 50 year old shower. One good thing, everything was dry. Since the old pan has been out, some spots did form. There's nothing wet underneath, so I'm guessing it's coming out from the wood, from sweaty pipes over time.

(Ignore the faucet. I'm waiting for a moen valve. I decided not to put chinese junk behind the walls.)

Here's my next problem. (new picture, scroll down...)




This picture is with the drain centered, but for it to be centered, I need to build out the long wall by 1.25" or (move the drain???)nThat seems like the extreme choice, unless the drain pipe being below the surface of the plywood is a problem.

I do have a friend who's gonna come check on my work. But any advise is really welcome. Thanks.

 

[CT-18]

Fir the wall. cut out and replace the floor and address the drain when the floor is out. It seems as if you can pull that piece over to line up. Is it in the ground or in a ceiling space. Your probably going to need a internal pipe cutter and cut the pipe lower to add a coupling so it comes up high enough for the new shower drain. Its been a while since i have worked on a house, so i am sure you will get other suggestions that may be better for you.

 

[LolaEliz]

Fir the wall. cut out and replace the floor and address the drain when the floor is out. It seems as if you can pull that piece over to line up. Is it in the ground or in a ceiling space. Your probably going to need a internal pipe cutter and cut the pipe lower to add a coupling so it comes up high enough for the new shower drain. Its been a while since i have worked on a house, so i am sure you will get other suggestions that may be better for you.

It's a second floor bathroom. Cut out the floor, wow, that's a big deal. The whole floor? Or a square from beam to beam, just to get to the drain? Do I use a jigsaw? Circular saw? Those are the 2 saws I have.

It would be so much easier to build out the wall, especially because the walls aren't super square. But if I need that drain pipe flush with the subfloor, then I will need to extend that pipe.

 

[LolaEliz]

If I put a board 3/8" thick under the p-trap (there's already a board there supporting it, I could screw this one on top of it.) that would raise the pipe enough for proper shower pan / drain instillation. Or I can cut it add a coupler and more pipe (without cutting out the floor). Obviously the board is easier, as long as that small amount of pressure won't damage anything.

I'm building out the one wall. it will make them more square too.

 

[CT-18]

Yes you could do that. As i said i haven't been in the house field in many years, outside of work on my home and friends and family. I will be doing my second floor master bath soon and i will be taking out the floor to rework the plumbing layout.

 

[LolaEliz]

Yes you could do that. As i said i haven't been in the house field in many years, outside of work on my home and friends and family. I will be doing my second floor master bath soon and i will be taking out the floor to rework the plumbing layout.

Thanks for replying. My friend who knows this stuff better than me is gonna come over and help me next week. the pipes are abs, so I ordered a foot of pipe, a coupling and abs cleaner and cement. My guess is he'll take out some of the floor to extend the pipe. There's only 4" of pipe before it hits the p-trap, so there is no room for mistakes. Plus he has better tools than me. I need room for mistakes since I'm not experienced.

I did sister the studs to extend the wall. it wasn't square, so it worked out well.

 

[LolaEliz]

I cut a hole in the floor! Harbor freight had a 2" pipe cutter for $10, so I got that. It worked great on the new pipe, not sure i can get it to spin on the drain pipe with the beam right there. So I have an abs pipe, abs coupling ring and ABS glue. It came with cleaner too, but none of the youtube sites say to use that. I'll read the directions on the box. I think I've got this! Thanks CT-18 for your advise!! I was scared to cut the hole because there's pipes under there, but i decided to use a circular saw with the blade adjustment barely 1/2" and it worked great.

 

[GReynolds929]

They also make an inside cutter wheel that goes in a drill that would work in that situation too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-I...-1-4-in-up-to-10-in-Pipe-80-525-111/304341675

 

[LolaEliz]

That's how I got the shower pan out and it made a very crooked cut. Not blaming the tool, but my precision, and the fact that it was cutting through the rubber ring too. Right now by biggest issue is getting the added piece the right height. I might have to cut the drain pipe a 1/4" shorter. And I might have to use that drill bit -- hopefully it works better now that the rubber ring isn't an issue!