How to Join 2" PVC to a Brass Valve

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JerryB41

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I'm the technical director for a small mutual water system. Most maintenance and repair is accomplished by volunteers of which I am one.

We have recently been replacing the 50 year old piping on our pumping plant. We have constructed a new pump platform for our two 10HP Berkeley pressure pumps and replaced the 50 year old galvanized piping with 2" Sched. 80 PVC. All valves (Check, On-Off, Selector) are new 2" brass with female threaded connections. The PVC universally uses male adapters that thread into the female metal parts. All pipe lines are glued PVC with EZ-Heat frost protection and insulation.

We recently had a failure where the threaded male PVC part simply came out of the female brass valve. Unbelievable, but close examination shows absolutely no obvious damage to either threaded part!

This joint was originally bench assembled using pipe joint compound, overlaid with a couple of wraps of teflon tape. In spite of my reservations, this combination was used on the advice of a local plumbing 'expert.'

My career experience includes lots of plumbing design and manufacturing, but mostly for precision gas handling. Largest fittings are typically 1/2", and Teflon tape is the preferred thread sealant. I had never heard of putting both pipe compound AND teflon tape in a joint.

Looking at websites for the manufacturers of PVC fittings produces even more confusion. One says to use either thread compound or tape. Another says to put the joints together with NO sealant, but then gives detailed instructions for using teflon tape.

BTW, the joint that failed is on a suction line, and has (operating) EZ-Heat frost protection.

We are only able to use one pump until I get this line repaired, so would really appreciate any suggestions on putting this joint back together so it won't fail.
 
That is why I was wondering about the unions. Those are fairly large pumps. The vibrations could have backed the threads right out of the brass. Vibration isolation is a must.
 
And for you're question of using both teflone tape and pipe dope.. Yes that is the best combo..I would also try to consider using a sweat ball valve . With copper female a few feet away
 
I think there may be a possible way to prevent this again if you use the flex connections in conjunction with flanges instead of unions. We've used sch 80 PVC in a few mechanical rooms for heating hot water / low preassure boiler feed water. We always hooked up our pumps with flanged conections.
 
Thanks for all the quick, on-point replies. Very helpful!

We currently do NOT have any vibration isolation. I will take a serious look at adding that. Already have a call into our primary supplier.

The real (still unsolved) mystery here is that neither the plastic male nor the female brass valve show any evidence of damage to the threads. And, neither one can nor has rotated. If I didn't think I know better, I would have to conclude that the fitting was never screwed together! Probably remain one of life's unsolved mysteries.

Thanks Again for the excellent advice!
 
Thanks for all the quick, on-point replies. Very helpful!

We currently do NOT have any vibration isolation. I will take a serious look at adding that. Already have a call into our primary supplier.

The real (still unsolved) mystery here is that neither the plastic male nor the female brass valve show any evidence of damage to the threads. And, neither one can nor has rotated. If I didn't think I know better, I would have to conclude that the fitting was never screwed together! Probably remain one of life's unsolved mysteries.

Thanks Again for the excellent advice!


The only similar experience I have had was when I threated 1/2 male to 3/4 female, of course I did it by accident , but since I used excessive Teflon tape and pipe dope . I felt a good hold while thitening . When I turned on the water it blew out
 

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