Hard sealant already on dielectric nipples--replace?

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rlyoung

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I'm replacing the plastic drain valve on a new 50 gallon electric water heater. It is being used only as a storage tank for a wood/solar system. I will replace the plastic valve with a metal ball valve, utilizing a 3" 3/4" dielectric nipple between the valve and the steel tank. The nipple came with a dry sealant of some sort already on the threads. Any reason I shouldn't/can't buff the sealant off and use Rectorseal 5 or T+2. ( I'm moving away from teflon tape, with or without a sealant) Thanks.
 
I'm replacing the plastic drain valve on a new 50 gallon electric water heater. It is being used only as a storage tank for a wood/solar system. I will replace the plastic valve with a metal ball valve, utilizing a 3" 3/4" dielectric nipple between the valve and the steel tank. The nipple came with a dry sealant of some sort already on the threads. Any reason I shouldn't/can't buff the sealant off and use Rectorseal 5 or T+2. ( I'm moving away from teflon tape, with or without a sealant) Thanks.
No need to use anything other than a brass nipple. Don’t use a dielectric nipple on the drain.

Use brass directly into the tank, no dielectric nipples.
 
The drain port isn't being used as a grain, but part of a circulation loop with the heat source. Is there anything wrong with using a dielectric nipple? I understand brass would reactly minimally, but will react, or otherwise hasten wear on the anode? It had a brass nipple in the tank that failed, and my suspicion is that's where it failed. I've yet to confirm that.
 
I want to learn. A dielectric nipple between a water heater and a bronze valve will fail where, and because of what? And a brass nipple won't because...?
The dielectric nipples that are sold are thin zinc covered steel with a plastic liner.

The thin zinc steel simply rusts away.

Brass doesn’t react with the steel tank and doesn’t rust.

Stainless doesn’t either.

Dielectric nipples are a scam…….trust me.

The dielectric nipples fail and because they’re so thin to begin with and rusted into the heater, the pipe wall will crush when you try to remove it. A nipple extractor just flares the thin nipple out and chews it up.

Then the only option is to replace the water heater because it’s got that POS steel nipple rusted out at the inlets and outlets.
 

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