Getting Huge Amounts of Air at All Faucets/Fixtures

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miataman2001

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Aug 6, 2011
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Location
Felton, Delaware
I am having a problem with air discharge at all of the water fixtures in my house from both hot and cold supplies (3 sinks, 1 tub, 2 toilets, 1 washing machine, and 2 outdoor spigots). Sometimes when I turn on something that uses a lot of water like the bathtub or washing machine, the water will come out very aerated spitting and sputtering like crazy and then totally stop. I can hear the pump running and eventually it reprimes and water flows again. I let it run for a minute or two to remove the air and then it's fine. However, if the systems sets for a while, the problem is right back, so I deal with this every day. When I flush the toilets with the aerated water, they make the most awful sound filling back up. Sometimes whatever pressures are involved will make the lids jump up a little scaring my guests (and me). :eek:

I have a 45' shallow well with a 2" PVC casing that was mud rotary drilled in November 2003. The previous owner had the well dug because the old one was bad. I am using a 1/2 hp Goulds shallow well jet pump with an 8.5 gallon bladder tank. Both were installed when the well was dug. There is a check valve right before the pump on the suction side and I am assuming a foot valve also in the well.

At one point a few years ago, a car ran off the road and into my yard and struck the well pipe. The pump had been running for hours overnight but couldn't get prime because air was being sucked in. I didn't realize the problem until morning when I tried to use the water and also noticed an abandoned vehicle in my yard. A plumber dug down and replaced the snapped section of pipe. The air problem was there prior to this accident, though, but also remained after. Sometimes during winter it seems the water will work fine with no air or at least it's very reduced.

I just recently woke up to the pump having lost prime again. I went under the house to shut it off and it was VERY hot. Several hours later, I turned it back on and it primed itself (with airy water of course). At that point, I noticed a leak at the connection from the discharge side to the house. I replaced all the piping and connections from the pump to the main shut off valve. No more leaks. However, there now seems to be a VERY small leak with the pump itself in the middle where the shaft from the motor goes into the pump housing. It's a little drip under the pump. Would this cause such a big air problem?

Also, my pressure switch is set to 30/50 and the bladder tank psi measured at 28 when empty of water. All of that seems to work fine. I have a pressure gauge installed into the T fitting that comes from the pump discharge with the other two connections leading to the house and bladder tank. After the pump shuts off the pressure drops about 2-3 psi but held steady for hours after that with the main shut off valve to the house closed.

I really hope someone can point me in the right direction here. I don't think the well is going bad because once the initial air is bled from the lines it pumps fine with good pressure.

I'm sorry for the long narrative. I'm just trying to give as much backstory and details as possible.
 
not an expert in wells, but it sounds like it could be a faulty foot valve and perhaps there is some syphoning going on that draws air into the ststem.... this is a guess however and I would be patient and await a better response from someone who deals with this problem more regularilly.

there are some VERY good people on here to answer this question ...
 
Remove the check valve before the pump. The foot valve is the only check you need. If it leaks back after removing the above ground check, you have a hole in the drop pipe or the foot valve is not working, which is where the air is coming from.
 
Thank you for the responses. I will remove that check valve and see what happens as soon as I can. However, before I do that I have a few more questions, and I've included photos for reference.

Regarding the check valve specifically, are there any special requirements for removing and reinstalling the black, clamped supply line? I think I will have to get a piece of galvanized piping as an extension, too, to make up for where the check was.

I imagine the problem will still be there after the check valve is taken out of the equation, though. If it and the foot valve have been working properly and there were no holes in the drop pipe or supply line in the ground to the house, then I would have no air problems. So even with that check valve gone, I'm pretty sure air will still be invading my water lines. This brings me to my next question.

Checking the supply line is pretty self explanatory. It's just a matter of digging down to it in the yard. However, checking the well drop pipe isn't so easily understood. I included a photo of the pipe that sticks out of the ground. Also, note that the cap seems to have some sort of foam gasket at the connection. Is this typical? Is it glued on or are these things ever threaded for removal?

To recap, I have a 45' mud rotary drilled 2" PVC well. The casing top is recorded at 0' (I assume because it sticks out of the ground). The casing bottom is recorded at 35'. The screen top is recorded at 35' and screen bottom at 45' and is also listed as 2" PVC. I not sure what the screen actualy is and does. The gravel pack is recorded as 32' to 45' and the grout type is bentonite clay from 0' to 32'. It says the pumping water level was at 20' on 11/20/03 when the well was dug, and the well head was completed at 12" below surface with a standard "T".

Now, what is required to inspect the drop pipe and foot valve? I know something has to be pulled 45' out of the ground. Is this the 2" PVC pipe or is there something inside of that? If it is the 2" PVC, does this typically release easily from the bentonite grouting and gravel pack? Also, I assume the black supply line will need to be removed from that "T" fitting at the well head, correct?

I look forward to your responses.

Pump-Setup.jpg

Check-Valve.jpg

Well-Pipe.jpg

Well-Cap-Foam-Gasket.jpg
 
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