We have a leak in the washer drain line, most likely in the P-trap. Plus a leak in the wye where the washing and kitchen drains come together (confirmed by camera test). We are considering having a new drain line put in and tap the city's lateral line, to avoid going under the slab. A family member thinks trenchless lining might be less expensive, but I am hesitant because neither of our leaks is in a straight section of pipe. Anyone have any experience similar to this?
Drain line advice needed
- Thread starter tex66
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
relining is for long laterals. Not really an option for you.
Not sure how tapping into the City lateral is going to fix the leak at washer.
I just finished one where it started out as a cracked cast iron stack in the wall.
Crack went into slab. Pulled a cast iron tub and opened the slab.
Water lines were in the way under slab so I had to move them.
ended up replacing 2 combos under slab and p-trap fro tub.
Probably don't want to hear this but, sometimes you have to bite the bullet and dig into it.
Not sure how tapping into the City lateral is going to fix the leak at washer.
I just finished one where it started out as a cracked cast iron stack in the wall.
Crack went into slab. Pulled a cast iron tub and opened the slab.
Water lines were in the way under slab so I had to move them.
ended up replacing 2 combos under slab and p-trap fro tub.
Probably don't want to hear this but, sometimes you have to bite the bullet and dig into it.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2014
- Messages
- 8,578
- Reaction score
- 2,977
OUCH that was a lot of work, they did not see coming
Thanks for the feedback! I figured relining wouldn't work for us. Our options are:
1) leave leaky pipes alone and lay new drain pipes outside of slab, tapping into city's lateral near the street, or
2) dig under slab 20+ feet to replace failing pipes, or
3) dig under slab 70+ feet to replace all pipes.
My folks are retired and on fixed income, I'm self employed and their caregiver (not much disposable income), the house is paid for, and we have no plans to sell. Since the camera showed the main lines are good, we're eliminating option #3 for now. Our house sits on a bunch of caliche, so we know that digging under the slab (option #2 or 3) will be more expensive than the initial estimate, 'cause they are gonna run into rock (as happened with our neighbors).
That leaves us with option #1 -- they will run a new drain from the kitchen sink through the wall and attach it to a new pipe in the back yard, below ground and far enough from the house to avoid utility lines. Turn the corner and pick up a new connection from the washer (which is in the garage, just off the kitchen), then continue on toward the street. The city will tap the lateral. Total length of new line is around 65 feet.
1) leave leaky pipes alone and lay new drain pipes outside of slab, tapping into city's lateral near the street, or
2) dig under slab 20+ feet to replace failing pipes, or
3) dig under slab 70+ feet to replace all pipes.
My folks are retired and on fixed income, I'm self employed and their caregiver (not much disposable income), the house is paid for, and we have no plans to sell. Since the camera showed the main lines are good, we're eliminating option #3 for now. Our house sits on a bunch of caliche, so we know that digging under the slab (option #2 or 3) will be more expensive than the initial estimate, 'cause they are gonna run into rock (as happened with our neighbors).
That leaves us with option #1 -- they will run a new drain from the kitchen sink through the wall and attach it to a new pipe in the back yard, below ground and far enough from the house to avoid utility lines. Turn the corner and pick up a new connection from the washer (which is in the garage, just off the kitchen), then continue on toward the street. The city will tap the lateral. Total length of new line is around 65 feet.
