Drain and Vent Questions

[rsteve12]

Hello,

I am new to the forum. Thanks in advance for helping me. I am wondering if you would be so kind as to look at the attached diagram and tell me if it is a workable plan. I am going to attach the vent pipes in the attic and exit the roof with two three inch pipes. The house is located in Nashville TN and is 1088 s.f. and all of the vents are 1.5" and 2" PVC.

Many Thanks,
Russell

View attachment morton plumbing.pdf

 

[johnjh2o]

Your drawing is very difficult to read. It's hard to tell what is running horizontal and what is running vertical. Mabe if you color coded the lines.

John

 

[havasu]

I know very little about plans, but it seems to me that having 7 vents for a 1088 s.f. seems out of whack.

 

[johnjh2o]

I know very little about plans, but it seems to me that having 7 vents for a 1088 s.f. seems out of whack.

I believe he said he is connecting them together in the attic. Which is OK but what I think I'm seeing is horizontal venting below the flood rim of the fixtures witch is not allowed.

John

 

[havasu]

Oops, I failed to read it properly! Thanks for the correction John.

 

[LiQuId]

difficult to interperit for sure.

excessive vents are better than not enough i suppose.. I fail to understand why you dont keep the bathroom groups together on a single 3" wet vented line. you would need to aim for the W.c. with the 3" and then bring a 2" line off that would pick up the tub and the lav, you could reduce to 1.5 " after the wet vented connection.

IF the sinks of the one Bathroom are in the same space, same wall, I would use a double t-wye to pick them up.

- Any vent that are below flood rim must have cleanouts accessiblle and also must come off above the horizontal centerline of the branch they serve.

running the clothes washer off of the same line as the tub is a bad idea as the new machines have high output pumps and the suds create a pressure suds zone that chokes off the vent when they drain... basically you willend up with bubbles coming out of the tub drain and a future REally REally Really clogged pipe... here in Canada, alberta by code you are not allowed to do what you have drawn. your washer branch must be downstream of any other branch connections, and must be served by its own, individual vent.


I could within code, do this entire house with only 4 vents going up... no problem.

I am Curious why there are no p-traps depicted on your drawing ? is the house served by a building trap ?

not trying to pick, just trying to help .

 

[b4cz28]

Its always better to do it to code to just into the habit of doing it. THe washer and the tub are in fact a bad idea, I would never do that. The above poster is right, follow his advice if you can.

 

[rsteve12]

Wow! Thanks so much for all of your replies. I worked all day and haven't had time to respond. I'm sorry for the poor schematic. I had difficulty drawing the beast and was worried that it woud be difficult interpret. My original file was to large to uoload and I kept chopping away at it to get it small enough. I will redraw, make the suggested changes and see if I can get an approval on the forum. I will redesign the washer drain. The washer trap and the tub traps are in a crawl space. The sink traps will be below the sinks. Again, I apologize for the confusion.

Russell

 

[AJay]

running the clothes washer off of the same line as the tub is a bad idea as the new machines have high output pumps and the suds create a pressure suds zone that chokes off the vent when they drain... basically you will end up with bubbles coming out of the tub drain and a future.....

I'm so glad that I looked at this thread.

Currently our washer drains into a deep sink next to it. The wife wants to have that drain into a pipe when we get around to getting a new washer/dryer.

Sadly the laundry room is next to the garage and thus over slab. Any major changes to drains will require breaking up concrete.

Even though draining into a deep sink is kinda ugly, it seems to work. There is a vent in the wall... so maybe we can change it. But that's for another day.

 

[rsteve12]

Hello Again,

I hired a plumber to come and look at my plumbing and point out any errors in the drain and vent system. Before he came I changed the washer drain as Liquid suggested and it now drains directly into the main. The plumber told me one of my vents needed to be a 3" vent connected to the main and it has to go all the way up throught the roof. he made me change my tub drains from threaded connectiond to glued connections with test plugs. Also, I had a 1.5" drain for a vanity running about 15 feet to the main and he said to change it to 2". So all I have left to do is add the 3" vent all the way up. One question I didn't get answered was how high above the roof to extend the vents. Can someone tell me how high to extend the vents above the roof line?

Thanks for all of your help'
Russell

 

[b4cz28]

Roof jacks or whatever you call them in your region varies by height. Some are made to be flush with the jack others are made to stick up a few inches past that. Just look at the homes around you.

for examples go to photobucket or flicker and search for pics.

 

[phishfood]

For an asphalt shingle roof, I always go 8" above the top of the plywood at the middle of the hole that I cut for the vent pipe. For a concrete tile roof, I go 12". Code minimum is, or at least used to be, 6"

 

[havasu]

For the fireplace vent, it must be 5' horizontal to the nearest roofline. I have no idea about a poop vent, but I can assure you there is a code minimum for it.

 

[Caduceus]

In my area the minimum is 12" for all vents. That applies to stack vents, vent stacks and 'poop vents' (hehe).

 

[b4cz28]

Every area may be diff but not that far apart. There are these code approved vents in my area that are very low. And of course they old style! Let me post you some pics op.

 

[rsteve12]

Thanks once again for all of your replies and photos. I have been told by my plumber that the vents have to be 12" from the high side.

Russell

 

[rsteve12]

Oh yeah, I am going to plug up the end of my drain tomorrow and fill 'er up with water - just to the top of the washer drain. If she holds, the plumber is going to call for an inspection.

Russell

 

[rsteve12]

Me Again,

I filled the drains with water and I HAVE A LEAK!!!! It's a 4" threaded clean-out. The more I tighten it, the more it drips. I put teflon tape on the threads before I put it in. I'm at a loss. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Russell

 

[havasu]

You might have some bad threads on the cap. Go purchase a new one and put a coat of Rectorseal # 5 and it shouldn't leak anymore.

 

[rsteve12]

Hello Again,

It's been awhile since I posted, so I thought I'd let you all know that I fixed my leaking cleanout with wax from a wax ring. The inspector came and he was there for about thirty seconds and he PASSED the plumbing. He didn't even go into the crawl space. I don't think he even looked at anything.

Thanks,
Russell