Diverter valve installation/recommendations? + Hose Bibb install?

[Dumb Home Owner]

GM- I had a HIMC (Home Improvement Contractor) come in to remove/replace a cracked fiberglass shower enclosure and other things, other than the plumbing issues. The shower drain install seems fine. Not an expert in this area. I have a couple questions for experts.

1. They replaced my old diverter with a glacier bay, I seem to have low flow now. per manual the GB is rated at 1.8GPM, my old one either had no restriction or was 2.5GPM. Not real happy about the flow rate, looking to replace it with something good. PSI in house is 40-50, which I checked at both showers. What do you recommend for a new shower diverter to get better flow?

2. There was not a stringer board from the original home builder so the HIMC put one in. They did not correctly install the plumbing and it leaked into the basement and the shut-off valve was installed backwards (hit the wall, so I could not shut off water to shower). I had a licensed plumber come in to repair the leak/plumbing, he said that CPVC to brass was not to code (left side) but the right side was. He mentioned the HMIC used a drywall screw to mount the GB diverter to the stringer board. is this legit? Any issues looming with this?

3. The HMIC also replaced rear hose bib, it also looks like CPVC to Brass, does not leak, is this legit? should I have fixed?

 

[breplum]

Dirtbag quality scum work from your HIMC, so sorry.
1. FIP plastic adapter is an absolute crack waiting to happen and against code and common sense. They make CPVC adapters with brass inserts to make those connections.
2. Shower drain is not correct. Shielded no hub coupling is much preferred and code. That coupling is unshielded. That is not a p-trap fitting. Should be a p-trap but in reality it should work
3. Drywall screw is NOT a reliable fastener but we see it holding up most of the time. They break more readily than higher quality screws.
4. The hose bibb: Always use a heavy duty brass adapter and clamp and screw it. Tricky in all masonry, so local availability of mtls. comes in to play.

Delta shower valves based on the simple, universal R10000 with screwdriver stops...then pick your trim.
We also use Hansgrohe or Grohe or Kohler, Pfister, Am.Std

Try removing the flow restrictor in the shower head before trying any replacement valve. And make sure the screwdriver stops are open and there is not particles clogging the shower cartridge.

you got a real POS contractor.

 

[Dumb Home Owner]

Thanks! The licensed plumber I hired after HIMC to fix the leak replaced the shower FIP with brass fittings and reversed the one shut off valve so it could be closed. I think we are good with that. he explains it in the video below.

1. I did not realize the shower drain was supposed to be shielded. I know they had to cut out to get the center drain to fit with the new pan. I'll talk to my plumber about fixing that.

2. For the valve to stringer screw, what type of screw should I use? I can still access it from the shower side if I take the handle and cover off.

3. I assume you say the hose bibb is also not correct since its PVC to Brass, I'll talk to my plumber about fixing that too.

4. I did check the shower head, it's the same one we had before w/out issues; my plumber guy cleaned out the screen of PVC shavings from HIMC when he was fixing the show FIP, so It has to be the diverter valve limit 1.8GPM, I'll look into getting a Delta replacement per your recommendation, 2.5GPM has to be better.

Appreciate the guidance... DHO